red beard

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

making a little more progress on the roof. life is very busy right now. anyway this is the front visor. i’m assuming this gap should not be there but should be touching the gutter metal?
IMG_2057.webp
IMG_2056.webp


there are also some rust holes in it that need to be patched. i bought all new roof seals from cityracer. we’ll clean up the rust and repaint it eventually before reinstalling it.
 
finally making a bit more progress on the roof. i have all the holes welded. it’s really thin metal so not my best welding but good enough to seal it off. way better than what we started with!! just priming it now with what primer i have i on hand. well paint it white before install and i plan on doing a gel coat to the roof once we get the patching finished.
IMG_2919.webp
IMG_2920.webp


at least i know where all the snow was coming in through so that’ll stop happening!!
 
Last edited:
I had a couple of minor sections of rust and prior roof rack attachment damage to repair, But what made me really decide to separate them was how loose a lot of the existing rivets were after I dug out all the failing seam sealer and saw how loose everything was
I was happy to fix the steel, but also to clean everything up and epoxy prime it and reattach the fiberglass using the panel adhesive epoxy along with the rivets. Solid AF now

It wasn't really that bad of a job.

I have a spare tube of panel epoxy, a large bag of the right rivets, and clecos to hold it all together I pass on very reasonably if needed also.

See what you find when you take out the old seam sealer.
 
Last edited:
If you are going as far as doing a re-gelcoat, do it all once and right.

In hindsight, I think I should have taken just the bare fiberglass top to a gel coater, then attached it to the restored steel properly, then seam sealed and painted the seam seal last.

I primered the steel, attached it to the fiberglass and seam sealed it and I'm now doing the repairs of holes in the fiberglass and have to figure out the top coat, but I think it will be weird to have the gel coat/ paint done only to the edge of the seam seal, I would have like to have had the gel coat with the same seal on top of it I think.

I am curious what others have done, what sequence of finishing and attaching.
 
my plan is to dig out the seal sealer, clean up the drip rail but leave it in place if it’s not loose, prime and paint the metal, finish the fiberglas repair and prep, gel coat down to the drip rail then finish with white seam sealer

maybe i’ll find i’m way off base as i get deeper into it but that’s the plan for now
 
the drip rails are solid and in good condition so i plan on just leaving them on. i bought seam sealer, paint and high build primer to get this baby going. gel coat is $$$. i think i’ll still go ahead with it but waiting to see if a body shop buddy of mine can get it or not. i like the idea of a thicker layer of coating but might just paint it if the gel coat is too much money.

again this is not a beauty queen restore. it’s a bush beater for my kids that i want to be a solid and sealed vehicle. he took it out driving yesterday with no roof and filled it with muddy water going through puddles with his sister!! so yeah definitely doesn’t need to be show room perfect!!
 
7-8 years ago I had restored an old boat that really needed all new gelcoat. As you said $$$.

Used a high build epoxy primer and paint.. after banging against the dock for 7 summers, winds, high tides and all of the bumps a boat can go thru in a 7 month season…7 times..not a single mark, scrape or scratch. I’d be surprised if your paint doesn’t live equally to fiberglass gelcoat.

EDITED: the 2nd photo below is what I started with
IMG_0062.webp
IMG_9600.webp
 
Last edited:
Never sanded or buff or waxed this hull. Glossy as can be. The way it landed on the hull as it left the gun, is the way it stayed
 
Back
Top Bottom