Recognize this roll cage fastener?

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MadMace

MadMace

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Does anybody recognize this type of fastener (pictures below)? I have 8 of these total, 2 per plate attaching the roll cage to my 40. It looks like the nut should come off from the underside but I cannot get it to budge--not even with my electric 1/2 inch impact wrench.

Anybody dealt with these before? I find the, odd. I cannot understand why they are there vs regular nuts.

Any help I'd greatly appreciate.

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Are you referring to the captive nut on the underside of the body that the roll cage bolts go into?
 
Looks like a carriage bolt. You could grind the head off but you may still be left with the square section. You’d have to grind into your roll bar plate or perhaps drill the center of the left over square section. Then use a chisel to cave it inward.

Most reliabe method would be slice the nut off from underneath. Challenge there would be to not get into sheet metal.

Then there’s the trusty plasma cutter. It’s fun to vaporize the core of a rusty bolt using plasma. Not much margin for error with sheet metal though. I’d pass on that for now:hillbilly:

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sokoloka said:
Are you referring to the captive nut on the underside of the body that the roll cage bolts go into?
Click to expand...

I am referring to the flat headed bolt, as seen from the topside. I know that most of the nuts are captive but I don't know how this would get secured down with a captive nut.
 
the other option that will work but will burn some of your paint is heat that bolt with map gas until the nut glow RED. Oxy-acetylene would be even better than MAP has, I finally splurged a bought a oxy torch. So handy to have.:cheers:That will break the rust bond so your impact should be enough. Unknown is whether your plate in square notched so the carriage won’t spin.
 
thebigredrocker said:
Those are not captive nuts. Just regular nuts, I can see a washer underneath.
Click to expand...

Thank you, yes you're right, I can see them after you pointed them out. So, I got out there with my breaker bar, socket extension, and deep socket and sure enough, I got the roll cage off. Unfortunately, most of the bolts didn't fare well. 1/2 sheared off due to rust, but honestly, I don't care, I'll replace them. I'm just happy to get the cage off so I can get it powder coated.

Those bolts do look stock though as they seem to be tacked down. I have no idea why the original owner would have done that. If anybody knows if there are roll cages with these bolts, let me know.

Thanks thebigredrocker!!
 
Good ol’ breaker bar! Nice work.

Guessing you have more rusty bolts to remove. I’ve read a couple knowlegeble mudders mention, before you back a rusty bolt out, tighten the bolt first. After removing many rusty bolts, I believe in this tip.

Also, I no longer take chances removing rusty screws/bolts without heat first. Heat breaks the rust bond. Messing with busted off bolts wastes too much valueble time. On screws near OEM paint I use a small butane torch. It’s actually a refillable “creme brulee:flamingo:” torch. It is a slower process than a bigger MAP gas flame but a good tool when paint preservation is the goal.
 
thebigredrocker said:
Also, I no longer take chances removing rusty screws/bolts without heat first. Heat breaks the rust bond. Messing with busted off bolts wastes too much valueble time. On screws near OEM paint I use a small butane torch. It’s actually a refillable “creme brulee:flamingo:” torch. It is a slower process than a bigger MAP gas flame but a good tool when paint preservation is the goal.
Click to expand...

Great minds must think alike!! I had been soaking around the nut of each of these bolts with Kroil. After reading your post about torch them off, I remembered my little butane torch. I went out and from the underside heated each nut for about a minute or two...I love the smell of smoking Kroil at 1:30 am in the morning.:rofl:

Thanks for the tip about tightening first. The best thing about having to deal with situations like this is you learn new techniques, so it's never all bad.

I'll shoot some pictures of what they look like.

Again, thank you.
 
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Those bolts (with nuts) seem to be original, probably resistance welded to the flange to aid in installing the roll bar on the assembly line. That is consistent with the conical tip, to guide it in without buggering the threads.

There is a part number them, but it's been discontinued:
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The washer and nut decode to 12 mm dia. bolt. The screw (91651-61025) decodes to a 10 mm by 25mm long, likely with captured lock and flat washers.
 
73FJ40, thank you very much. Given that they are original, they are going to stay, at least in appearance. For the ones that were sheared off I am going to weld a 10mm nut to the underside of the head so I can lock in a 10mm threaded post. From the top will look identical to stock.
 
Older thread but I’m needing to remove these from my early 74’s factory roll bar as I have several that at some point someone bent or broke. Any suggestions other than just carefully cutting / grinding them off?

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Are they welded in or pressed in? You Might smack them with a hammer. Or your way.
 
I can’t tell for sure, but the sledge hammer started to bend the flange on the bottom of the roll bar when I was trying to beat one out.
 
You need to find something solid that is as tall as the roll bar. Place it upside down with one your trying to drive with a socket large enough to not interfere with it coming out between the solid surface. That will prevent the foot from bending. Probably need at least one more person to hold the other end of the roll bar.
 
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