Rear Locker Issue (not the actuator)

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I’m running 35” tires. I have 8 jack stands and all of them are too short to get my tires off the ground. As is, I have to use a large block of wood for my jack to lift one tire. I obviously don’t have the correct tools.
Put the stands under the axles.
 
Good news. I jacked all four tires up off the ground and my rear locker is working perfectly. It just isn’t showing that it’s locked up. I’m going to see if the sensor connectors need to be cleaned and go from there.
 
Glad you confirmed the actuator is working.
Not only should you clean the connector at the sensor, but also jumper the wire harness to see if the dash light comes on. If it doesn't come on, it may be as simple as a burned out bulb in the dash.
Then remove the sensor itself and check for continuity across the two pins. There should be no continuity initially and then continuity once you push in the ball at the end of the sensor. If there is no continuity once you depress the ball end this means that the sensor itself is bad. It can be replaced with a cheap Beck Arnley back up switch, or it can often be revived by spraying with your favorite degreaser or contact cleaner and cycling the ball in and out.
Another member recently went through a similar problem but with the center diff sensor rather than the rear diff sensor. The concept is the same for the rear diff actuator. See here: Issues with differential locker
 
Glad you confirmed the actuator is working.
Not only should you clean the connector at the sensor, but also jumper the wire harness to see if the dash light comes on. If it doesn't come on, it may be as simple as a burned out bulb in the dash.
Then remove the sensor itself and check for continuity across the two pins. There should be no continuity initially and then continuity once you push in the ball at the end of the sensor. If there is no continuity once you depress the ball end this means that the sensor itself is bad. It can be replaced with a cheap Beck Arnley back up switch, or it can often be revived by spraying with your favorite degreaser or contact cleaner and cycling the ball in and out.
Another member recently went through a similar problem but with the center diff sensor rather than the rear diff sensor. The concept is the same for the rear diff actuator. See here: Issues with differential locker

Ok. So, I just jumpered the connector at the actuator sensor and the light continues to flash, rather than staying on solid. The issue must be upstream in the sensor wiring. I’m hoping it isn’t a broken wire. What path do those sensor wires follow and are there other connectors I can troubleshoot before tracing the entire wire?
 
So, this could have been tested with the key in the on position like o said in my first post.

The sensors are the same as the ones on a Taco for the reverse lights, they are meant to be cleaned via resistance but the lockers don’t generate enough to self-clean so they tend to get dirty and/or fail fairly often. You can get a duralast from autozone for about $20-25. Part # JA449. They Toyota one is something like $70.

All of this is assuming the wiring or connector isn’t damaged for one reason or another. I‘ve seen that on a few.
 
So, this could have been tested with the key in the on position like o said in my first post.

The sensors are the same as the ones on a Taco for the reverse lights, they are meant to be cleaned via resistance but the lockers don’t generate enough to self-clean so they tend to get dirty and/or fail fairly often. You can get a duralast from autozone for about $20-25. Part # JA449. They Toyota one is something like $70.

All of this is assuming the wiring or connector isn’t damaged for one reason or another. I‘ve seen that on a few.

Because putting a jumper across the connectors on the plug didn’t cause the light to stay solid, I don’t think it’s the sensor. Also, I’ve already replaced the sensor. I think the issue is upstream of the connector. I’m just not sure if there are other connectors along the path that can be checked or where the sensor wires go to in the end.
 
Because putting a jumper across the connectors on the plug didn’t cause the light to stay solid, I don’t think it’s the sensor. Also, I’ve already replaced the sensor. I think the issue is upstream of the connector. I’m just not sure if there are other connectors along the path that can be checked or where the sensor wires go to in the end.

The control module for the lockers is in the passenger's side foot well. Just pull back the trim and it should be right there. Look up the wiring diagrams here on mud so you know what the pinout is. The wiring diagrams will also show every intermediary connector between the module and the sensor, so if you have to trace a broken wire, you can divide the search into segments.
 
but the indicator switch had some dirty contacts in the connector.

I'm chasing a similar issue. CDL/ABS works fine, turn switch to Rear Locker, I hear a faint click from the glovebox area, but no light at all on the dash. Turn to front locker, rear solid click from glovebox and it locks up. When you say indicator switch contacts which/where is it to clean?
 
I'm chasing a similar issue. CDL/ABS works fine, turn switch to Rear Locker, I hear a faint click from the glovebox area, but no light at all on the dash. Turn to front locker, rear solid click from glovebox and it locks up. When you say indicator switch contacts which/where is it to clean?

There’s a sensor on the front of your rear diff lock actuator. Unplug it and clean the plug terminals. You should be able to unplug it without removing the rock guard by flexing the guard a little.
 
Did you ever figure this out? I have the same problem.
 
sounds like a comms issue coming from the ECU (passenger side kick panel) it works as it should, it just doesnt relay the correct position of the sensor.
 
I didn't. I pretty much just put up with it and know that my rear locker is working, even though the light remains flashing. Let me know if you end up figuring it out.
Yeah, mine are intermittent at this point even after replacement and cleaning. It's just a dummy light that detects that the locker pin has shifted over to lock, dirt and mud could get in there and block that from happening even if the locker is working fine. That said, it could also be the wiring or the dash bulb itself. They'll work all day without the light displaying it's just way more frustrating and requires you to listen and feel for them engaging which depending on trail conditions can be easier said than done.
 
I didn't. I pretty much just put up with it and know that my rear locker is working, even though the light remains flashing. Let me know if you end up figuring it out.
The operation and diagnostics of the factory lockers are all in the Toyota EWD and FSM which you can download from the resources section.
 
I guess I'll dig further into when I get time. Not real worried about it just annoying seeing it flash. Lol
 
I guess I'll dig further into when I get time. Not real worried about it just annoying seeing it flash. Lol
If you jack the truck up and test the lockers and they are working fine, then I'd definitely get under there and pull the sensor and clean it all up and wiring connections as well with contact cleaner as that's probably what it is.
 
I just changed the switch before posting. I cleaned the plug and area before reassembly. I can hear the actuator moving into position and the tires scrub heavily in my driveway. When I have more time I'll check the wiring.
 
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