Issues with differential locker

[80drifter]

I haven't driven the cruiser for a while and now I am having some issues. Shame on me for not enjoying it more. I had driven it to Florida 2 years ago and parked it for a short time. I then drove it to VA and used it briefly to commute to DC. That was short lived so I drove it home to Maine and parked it until last weekend. It started right up and drives just fine. As I was going through my checklist before starting out in the cruiser I tested the diff lockers and they're not doing what I expect.

The issue that I am having is that the front and rear lockers won't engage. I did some searches and found a lot of information about taking them off, cleaning them, and being super careful about magnets in the motor. Before I start getting into it though I wanted to make sure that I am on the right path.

Here is what is happening.

1. Shifter in neutral, I can shift from high to neutral. Attempting to shift to low and I get a grinding sound. Shifting back to high I get the same sound.
2. In park I can shift from high to neutral, to low, without a problem.
NOTE- I thought shifting the transfer case into low occurred in neutral, not in park? I also thought the ABS light came on? It doesn't. I do end up in low though.
3. In park and low, if I turn the diff lock to RR, I get a flashing diff lock light.
4. In park and low, if I turn the diff lock to FFRR, I get two flashing lights.

I once again need to rely on my cruiser as I am back in Maine and it's winter. I hope my mud pals can help me out.

The threads I found below were helpful but I want to make sure what my diagnosis is before I try taking things apart.

How to fix a Locker - with Pictures

I am trying to attach pictures. I hope this works. Anyway, I have been having problems with my front locker getting stuck in the locked position for quite some time. In my opinion, it is worse if it gets stuck locked then if it doesn't engage at all. Anyway, my first call was to CDan...

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photos of e-locker actuator rebuild

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E Locker Actuator Rebuild Help

Hey Guys, I've been wiring up my rear 80series locker in my FJ40. It never worked, even after logic testing the wiring completely. The background of the build is a junkyard 80 series rear with homebrew wiring from reading multiple threads on here. So I followed a couple threads and decided to...

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Actuator Motor - Real Time Help Needed.

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Rear Locker Rebuild Kit? Guru?

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Slee - Fixing Diff Lock Actuator (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Specialist in Toyota 80 Series Land Cruisers. Hard to find parts, off-road accessories and custom fabrication

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Factory Locker Rebuild?

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locker actuator rebuild

I was asked to see what I might be able to do with a set of non working actuators. So I though I'd start a thread in hopes of helping others. Now these are really in a bad way and the outcome might not be what I'm hoping for but at least some of what I post might be useful. Being from New...

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rear e-locker actuator rebuild pics

Finally got around to doing this after putting it off for near two years. Like many, I had experienced the "sticky" actuator, tried "exercising" them, got it to work most times, sometimes just lived without it, etc. Last month it actually got stuck in the locked position with about 200 highway...

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Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help

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[RoaringFork]

The low range low range switch is probably your issue... it’s not signaling the diff lock ecu that low range is engaged, hence no abs or center diff lights, once you have those lights, then the diff locks can be turned on... the switch is on the upper pass. Side of the tcase, I’ve seen damaged wiring as well as faulty switches... if the wires are ok, the jump the connector and see if your dash lights come on, if so then try the axle lockers... hth

 

[cybrstar]

Check the T case first. In order for the front/rear lockers to lock, the T case must be locked. Don’t go into your front and rear actuators just yet.

 

[80drifter]

The low range low range switch is probably your issue... it’s not signaling the diff lock ecu that low range is engaged, hence no abs or center diff lights, once you have those lights, then the diff locks can be turned on... the switch is on the upper pass. Side of the tcase, I’ve seen damaged wiring as well as faulty switches... if the wires are ok, the jump the connector and see if your dash lights come on, if so then try the axle lockers... hth

Excellent! I will have a look at that this evening. That isn't the same as what they call the neutral safety switch though, is it? I am just searching for it so I can see what it looks like.

Check the T case first. In order for the front/rear lockers to lock, the T case must be locked. Don’t go into your front and rear actuators just yet.

Thank you! I won't do anything until I look at the switch and report back my findings.

 

[Wyatt Pine]

Do you have the dash mounted Center Diff Lock switch? If so you need to activate that in order for the diff locks to engage. When that button id depressed you will get the ABS and center diff light on the dash. If you don't have the CDL button then you most likely have a bad low range indicator switch in your transfer case

 

[TossYoda]

the sensor is a Beck Arnley?
This thread or similar may come into play

Center Diff Light Fix - My Experience

Greetings. When I bought my '98 LX, the center diff lock light did not illuminate on the dash, when pressing the button or putting the transfer case into low. I'm posting this because in my searches to find a fix, I found a lot of good advice but it was kind of all over the place and there were...

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I had to replace both (fairly easy) on my one 80 then the dash lights for locking etc. worked correctly

 

[ppc]

When attempting to shift the transfer case in high, neutral or low, first make sure you are completely stopped and have your brakes applied as shifting the transfer into neutral the vehicle can roll freely even with the transmission in Park. Shifting the transfer case is possible from either Park or Neutral. Shifting the transfer case into either High or Low will grind if you don't give sufficient time for the internal components time to stop rotating.

 

[JeepinPete]

I am dealing with the same issue. The actuator on your transfer case may not be working, or the sensor is not sensing. You can pull the plug on the sensor and jumper the contacts. This will get the ABS and 4X4 lights lit, then you can test the axle lockers.

You sound like you would be familiar with how low range usually feels (ie drivetrain bind), so it should be obvious when you are in low range if the transfer case diff locker is locked or not. That will point you to the transfer case actuator, or the sensor as your culprit.

 

[Broski]

It’s also been noted that the sensor can be removed and cleaned. The little ball on the bottom of the sensor need to cleaned and exercised and you should be good to go.

 

[LandStalker]

This same thing happened to my '94 years ago, and it was an easy fix...
1) Drive to an area without pavement and stop.
2) shift transmission into Neutral.
3) shift T-case into Low.
4) wait a second or 2 for the amber Center Diff Lock Light to turn on. If it does, so will the amber ABS Light, and your Center Differential is now locked, so continue to step 5.
If no Center Diff nor ABS light, shift the Transmission into Low or Reverse, and move back & forth a couple feet, stop, then shift back to Neutral. Shift the T-case into High, wait a few seconds, then back to Low. Repeat this process until the Center Diff light turns on (I had to do this about 20-30 times).
5) turn your front & rear Diff Locks on. The red light for the front & the rear locker will flash until each engages separately. Shift the Transmission into Low, and do slow figure-eights (under 5mph) until both lights have stopped flashing. You might hear a soft click when a locker engages and the light goes solid. When the front Diff Lock engages the steering will become extremely heavy.

Basically I just needed to work the drive train to get everything moving freely again, especially the Center Differential Lock because that will hold up everything else from engaging electronically. One note, I Do Not have a Center Diff Lock switch.

 

[Shipwreck]

It’s also been noted that the sensor can be removed and cleaned. The little ball on the bottom of the sensor need to cleaned and exercised and you should be good to go.

Exactly. @george_tlc did a great write up on this issue along with the procedure to clean the CDL sensor. Find it here:

CDL Sensor/Switch

Otherwise an inexpensive Beck-Arnley switch is available. BA #201-1788. ( I think)

 

[Rifleman]

It’s also been noted that the sensor can be removed and cleaned. The little ball on the bottom of the sensor need to cleaned and exercised and you should be good to go.

99% sure Brosky is correct, it's a common problem with that switch, that it get's gummed up from non use. So once you remove it, clean that ball on the end of the switch while exercising it's spring (pushing the ball in and out of the switch while flushing the underside of the ball with electronics spray cleaner) should get you back in action.

 

[Brimley]

The low range low range switch is probably your issue... it’s not signaling the diff lock ecu that low range is engaged, hence no abs or center diff lights, once you have those lights, then the diff locks can be turned on... the switch is on the upper pass. Side of the tcase, I’ve seen damaged wiring as well as faulty switches... if the wires are ok, the jump the connector and see if your dash lights come on, if so then try the axle lockers... hth

THIS

 

[Sarmajor]

No Center Diff lock indication / operation means that you can switch the Diff Lock switch to ask for FR and RR diff locks but will only get the flashing red lights.
depending on year of manufacture or specification your Truck must be either in low range with the CDL light on or in High Range with the CDL light on (Dash mounted switch to turn Center Diff Lock on)
CDL should engage fairly promptly. Front and Rear Diff Locks require (sometimes) some time to get things lined up in the diff. The Actuator motor preloads the shift lever and waits until things line up before completing engagement of the locking collar. This requires some differential between left and right sides of the vehicle which is why people are advising figure 8's. better would be driving in circles as donuts undo the displacement as you change direction of rotation.
I usually avoid doing it like that though.
Far simpler (if you have the equipment) to chock the wheels and jack up one side of the truck at both ends and support the axles with Stands.
Handbrake off. Trans in Neutral. T Case in Low or CDL switch on dash used to get CDL Locked, you should be able to hear the diff lock actuator operating if it is quiet enough in your work space.
So without the CDL locked you should be able to rotate the lifted wheels. (because the open diffs in the front and Rear axle will send drive to the wheels with least traction) locking the CDL will stop this, but you will still be able to rotate the raised wheels a bit until the drive train backlash is taken up in each direction. So with the CDL light on in the Dash operating the FR/RR Diff Lock switch will get the actuators to work and you should be able to rotate each of the lifted wheels until the diff lock engages. You may have to jack up the other wheel on each axle to get the displacement in the diff if there is very little diff backlash. Once this happens you will not be able to rotate the raised wheels at all (Maybe a tiny bit depending on clearances in the diff Lock mechanism).
Once you have everything locked up the flashing red lights should go solid.
If they don't then try Georges switch contact cleaning solution (it worked for me). the switch that tells the computer that the lockers have engaged is a very common switch as it is used in a huge number of transmissions as the reversing light switch. I was able to buy them from an after market supplier in New Zealand so you should have no problem getting them in the US. They are a Beck Arnley switch and the part number I used is 201-1788. Pictures are attached.

Lets us know how you get on with this. Check out the simple things before ripping things apart.
I only know of one person in the NZ 4wd community that has had to reattach magnets in an actuator motor. Had to reattach magnets in my heater fan
motor but that'

s another story.

 

[80drifter]

Thanks everyone for the input. I took off the connector and in the process broke it. Ordered a new one and replaced everything last night. Still no go. It will shift from High to Low but no indicator lights show. I took out the other switch that's right next to it and cleaned it. It has a different connector. Should that be the next to replace? It's the one on top vs. the one to the side.

If not, what's next?

I replaced the switch on lower right, cleaned the one on top.

Below is the connector and pigtail that I used, perfect.

So what do I do next? Replace the top one? Different part number?

 

[Shipwreck]

No. No. You are replacing the wrong switch.
The center diff lock low range indicator switch is on the front side of the transfer case. It is above the front driveshaft output. Kinda hard to see and access. A good picture can be found here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_4070-jpg.1139366/

 

[thatcabledude]

Jump the connector with a paper clip or something and see if the dash light comes on.

 

[LandLocked93]

Sorry if I missed it but did you check the 30Amp diff lock fuse in fuse panel near drivers left knee? I nearly got all stuck in to looking at all this then thought to check the fuse. It was blown. Replaced and all was well.

edit: I see you're getting flashing lights. Nevermind. As we were...

 

[80drifter]

I found the right switch and replaced it. While the ABS light doesn't come on, it shifts into low, and both lockers work great. They turn solid and I can tell that they are working! Woohoo! So now I am back to having lockers again. Not worried about the light, could be something related to the "D" light that never comes on. Thanks everyone for your input and help it's super appreciated!

 

[LandLocked93]

... could be something related to the "D" light that never comes on. Thanks everyone for your input and help it's super appreciated!

Congrats on this!
On the other...if the lockers are engaging and you can confirm that, I'd say you have a burned out bulb. Don't think the lockers would engage if the ABS was not getting the proper signal.