Rear elocker wiring, '96 LC to '97 LX450 (1 Viewer)

[SJWantsADiesel]

Hi,

I might be potentially getting an entire rear locked axle assembly including ECU, harness etc etc from a '96 Land Cruiser to swap into my unlocked '97 LX450. I searched and read a few threads on wiring and learned:

1. Land Cruisers from various years may have different colored wires because of minor improvements/optimizations Toyota made (mostly for saving costs)
2. Lexus and Land Cruiser pins/harness/wires may not be plug and play because Lexus has more wires for audio and other shiny bling.
3. However, '95 and up, all Lexus and Land Cruisers are plug and play and interchangeable when it comes to elocker harness/plugs (?)

Obviously, I am more than confused

So I'd appreciate if someone can either point me to the right thread or explain the compatibility/options between those two models.

Alternatively, if I bypass all the OEM wiring/harness and get an aftermarket wiring harness, what do I lose (other than OE look/feel)? I understand there won't be any lights blinking in the dash if I skip all the OE stuff but with the OE harness/ECU, does engaging the locker automatically disable ABS and other electronic magic?

Also, what all should I extract from the donor vehicle if I am going to a salvage yard?

Thanks.

 

[edfirebird68]

you need the rear harness from axle with abs all the way up too the main harness connector under the jack. you will have to just pull those pins and add them to your factory harness there and a single ground spliced wire in the small connector behind the left taillight.
The diff computer from the right kick panel, the and the diff lock switch, add the bulb behind the dash and if your able take the hazard switch which you can cut off the index pin and use to engage the cdl in high,then do the 7 pin mod if wanted. I just did this 3 weeks ago.
Ed

 

[Tools R Us]

...

1. However, '95 and up, all Lexus and Land Cruisers are plug and play and interchangeable when it comes to elocker harness/plugs (?)

...

Correct, the locker related wiring is the same and LX450 has the proper wiring in the floor harness that is lacking in unlocked Cruisers. So, on the LX450, the swap is plug and play, with factory stuff, even if the donor is a Cruiser.

 

[SJWantsADiesel]

you need the rear harness from axle with abs all the way up too the main harness connector under the jack. you will have to just pull those pins and add them to your factory harness there and a single ground spliced wire in the small connector behind the left taillight.
The diff computer from the right kick panel, the and the diff lock switch, add the bulb behind the dash and if your able take the hazard switch which you can cut off the index pin and use to engage the cdl in high,then do the 7 pin mod if wanted. I just did this 3 weeks ago.
Ed

Thanks!! Going to the yard tomorrow to pickup the axle. This will be super useful if they haven’t already kept the right parts ready.

 

[ccslider]

There is no place to plug to plug the rear axle harness into the main floor harness you will be missing a 5 pin connection there that you will not be able to plug the rear axle harness into.

The locked version has this extension that's comes off of the harness.

 

[Tools R Us]

There is no place to plug to plug the rear axle harness into the main floor harness you will be missing a 5 pin connection there that you will not be able to plug the rear axle harness into.

The locked version has this extension that's comes off of the harness.

The LX450 has the 5 wires, ready for a locker, just plug in the harness that goes out to the axle.

 

[BILT4ME]

However, snag the harness from the donor vehicle, because the new ones are NLA.

 

[ccslider]

The LX450 has the 5 wires, ready for a locker, just plug in the harness that goes out to the axle.

Ahh I didn't see he had a Lexus.. should be easy

 

[SJWantsADiesel]

I got everything at a local yard. Do I need to pull some harness/wires from the donor Cruiser to wire up the computer in the kick panel?

 

[LINUS]

I got everything at a local yard. Do I need to pull some harness/wires from the donor Cruiser to wire up the computer in the kick panel?

Nope. Socket for the locker ecu is there, just usually tucked up.

Did you take both the rear harnesses you’ll need, the intermediary that ties to both rear corners & the axle pigtail?

 

[SJWantsADiesel]

Nope. Socket for the locker ecu is there, just usually tucked up.

Did you take both the rear harnesses you’ll need, the intermediary that ties to both rear corners & the axle pigtail?

Working on it now, as we speak, ripping the quarter panel out

 

[SJWantsADiesel]

The front axle on this truck is destroyed (collision) but if I were to pull from another truck, is the front wiring completely independent of the rear or does it plug into the same computer?

 

[LINUS]

Same computer/relay box.

If you can, the front pigtail just goes from the PS of the firewall in the engine side directly down to the actuator.

And I’d rob the axle anyhow if the 3rd member itself is still good.
You can modify your 450 axle shell if the donor 80 is bent.
If the 3rd is toast, at least swipe the actuator since it’s a West Coast 80.
Actuators are $$$

 

[SJWantsADiesel]

Same computer/relay box.

If you can, the front pigtail just goes from the PS of the firewall in the engine side directly down to the actuator.

And I’d rob the axle anyhow if the 3rd member itself is still good.
You can modify your 450 axle shell if the donor 80 is bent.
If the 3rd is toast, at least swipe the actuator since it’s a West Coast 80.
Actuators are $$$

Thanks. I am being offered the entire front axle assembly from a different yard for $1500 including shipping.

Or, from this truck that I am stripping, the front 3rd is good. Not sure about modifying the non-locker housing though - it’s rated high on effort and low on reliability in the write up on the Slee site.

(Sorry, for the brief response while in the yard)

 

[LINUS]

^^^Gotcha. Might still rob that actuator if you can.

GL!

 

[edfirebird68]

Copy even in my 97 lx the wiring only exists to the big connector uner the jack you need to add the pins for the 5 to the rear if it's a scrap yard take the main connector to rear

 

[edfirebird68]

BTW check car-part.com for the front axle I got both diffs and all the Nick nacks for 1200 using them they use the Hollander interchange and list yards by distance. I did rebuild the front hubs bc I found a slurry in the front right hub and a blown abs sensor but pick a yard where u can go and be proactive in the process
Ed

 

[ccslider]

Grab the front diff and sell it. They sell for like 600

 

[edfirebird68]

PS get whatever u can from the donor vehicle I got rear carpet a gauge cluster rear door lock actuators heater controls door pannel power seat switch maf...

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Or, from this truck that I am stripping, the front 3rd is good. Not sure about modifying the non-locker housing though - it’s rated high on effort and low on reliability in the write up on the Slee site.
...

Depending on your fab skills, equipment, it's a pretty good amount of work, but not all of that. If well done, don't see any difference in reliability? Being bent, they may offer the axle at a good price, lots of spare parts, knuckles, birf, brakes, maybe worth it?