rear disc brakes
- Thread starter AKFJ40
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You can try SOR and also BTB. There are a lot of places to look. You can do it cheaper if you have access to a machineshop and don't mind looking for the rotors and calipers. You can get the lines made also. It just depends on how much you want to spend / leg work.
I used the BTB kit and every thing but the flaring tool was included. Their instructions are located on their web site with pictures. This makes it very easy. A friend of mine also used the kit and found it easy to use. I have been told, FYI, that if you are sprung over that you should use the TSM kit instead of the BTB as the bracket sets the caliper up in the wrong location for sprung over. I had no problems as I am sprung under and have not verified the sprung over issue. Good product.
On the BTB, one of the reasons it is a little more expensive is that there is not a core charge for the calipers. I would use the kit again.
On the BTB, one of the reasons it is a little more expensive is that there is not a core charge for the calipers. I would use the kit again.
H
Hodag
Guest
Rear disks on FJ40
Forget the kits, buy a set of the brackets. Or go to the tech section and download the scale drawings of the brackets. I had a set made by a buddy with a plasma cutter, out of 1/4" stainless steel he had laying around. Cost me a 12 pack. 92' or newer 4 wheel drive GM 1/2 ton rotors, 78' Monte Carlo loaded calipers, brake pads. In the tech section there is even the part # for a Raybestos brake line that is female metric on one end and SAE male on the other. I had less than $200 in the whole mess and installed them in a couple of hours. This is just my $.02. You can get as fancy as you want, I cross-drilled the rotors on my drill press and painted the calipers fancy red to impress the Fast and Furious crowd. Hope this helps. Hodag
Forget the kits, buy a set of the brackets. Or go to the tech section and download the scale drawings of the brackets. I had a set made by a buddy with a plasma cutter, out of 1/4" stainless steel he had laying around. Cost me a 12 pack. 92' or newer 4 wheel drive GM 1/2 ton rotors, 78' Monte Carlo loaded calipers, brake pads. In the tech section there is even the part # for a Raybestos brake line that is female metric on one end and SAE male on the other. I had less than $200 in the whole mess and installed them in a couple of hours. This is just my $.02. You can get as fancy as you want, I cross-drilled the rotors on my drill press and painted the calipers fancy red to impress the Fast and Furious crowd. Hope this helps. Hodag
"92' or newer 4 wheel drive GM 1/2 ton rotors"
i assume this is a fullsize (or should i say, fullwidth) truck....not an s10 or s15 or some pos like that right?
i assume this is a fullsize (or should i say, fullwidth) truck....not an s10 or s15 or some pos like that right?
Just purchase the parts and do it yourself. The Raybestos brake lines discussed in the tech section are no longer available ... or at least none of the parts counters in Albuquerque could find a listing for the numbers provided. Same goes for the NAPA number.
I purchased my brackets from a guy that lurked here, the calipers (loaded) from Checker, the brake lines from Downey (sweet lines, BTW), and made the mistake of getting the "milled" rotors from JTO. The rotors were NOT milled and JTO refused to resolve the problem. Get the rotors from somebody else, or have them milled locally. JTO sucks. My total price was less than the kits, even after spending extra to have the rotors milled.
I purchased my brackets from a guy that lurked here, the calipers (loaded) from Checker, the brake lines from Downey (sweet lines, BTW), and made the mistake of getting the "milled" rotors from JTO. The rotors were NOT milled and JTO refused to resolve the problem. Get the rotors from somebody else, or have them milled locally. JTO sucks. My total price was less than the kits, even after spending extra to have the rotors milled.
Alsaka Rubber and The Parker Store on International (if your in anchorage) can make all the lines you could ever dream up.
Grant Stockly will cut the brackets out for you. He has a homemade CNC Plasma Table (no I didn't studder). Go to the AKfabshop.com board and PM Logjam. That is Grant. He is one of those guys who's brain is WAY to big for his skull and is smarter than any 3 other people you or I can think of.
Good Luck.
Grant Stockly will cut the brackets out for you. He has a homemade CNC Plasma Table (no I didn't studder). Go to the AKfabshop.com board and PM Logjam. That is Grant. He is one of those guys who's brain is WAY to big for his skull and is smarter than any 3 other people you or I can think of.
Good Luck.
I think the kits are seriously over priced, just get the parts at Napa and dive in. The tech section here really covers this topic very well and it is one of the easiest upgrades to do yourself.
AA Mfg has weld on small Chevy caliper mounts for $13 total, $6.50 each. Pretty hard to beat that price if you have access to a welder. I went that route and then you can position the calipers where you want them so the caliper pins have clearance in relation to the spring packs. Some guys have to drop an axle to change brake pads since they can't get a wrench on the pin.
Just my $.02, should be able to save at least $300 doing it yourself.
AA Mfg has weld on small Chevy caliper mounts for $13 total, $6.50 each. Pretty hard to beat that price if you have access to a welder. I went that route and then you can position the calipers where you want them so the caliper pins have clearance in relation to the spring packs. Some guys have to drop an axle to change brake pads since they can't get a wrench on the pin.
Just my $.02, should be able to save at least $300 doing it yourself.
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really hard to beet this kit http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/reardiscbrakeconversionkite780.htm
great quailty, anything 4-plus is the shizzel period! Dave in globe makes all the 4-plus stuff, he is awsome.
Sethro
great quailty, anything 4-plus is the shizzel period! Dave in globe makes all the 4-plus stuff, he is awsome.
Sethro
if anybody decides to go tsm, i've got a $100 gift certificate i'll sell for $50
H
Hodag
Guest
I think Gumby hit it already, but yes the rotors have to come from a full size, 1/2 ton, single cab, 4x4 GM, 92' or newer. This gives you the 6 lug holes. I forgot that you either have to slightly machine out the centers of the rotors, or mill your axles. I went the machinig the centers route. There is the exact amount you need to machine out listed in Tech Section. Any decent shop should be able to do it for you.
Are disc brakes in the rear that much of an advantage over drums? I have an '80 with front disc.
Mostly it is an advantage over Toyota non-adjusting drums because calipers are self adjusting. They also give somewhat better stopping power and much better performance when wet. It's good to have quality brakes in back when going up steep hills as well. For most applications, it's not all that necessary. I have them on mine for the above reasons and because the fronts are Monte Carlo/ GM truck as well. I like having one system for all four corners.
And you can't discount the bling.
And you can't discount the bling.