1973Guppie
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some more pics....
Rear Cargo Light Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter elmariachi
- Start date
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awesome, looks good!
after your tip on just going straight to the light my buddy and I poked around and found how easy it was to get a wire run under the liner with minimal effort. thanks again for the tip, made the job quick.
i ended up opting for independent control, running only 1 wire to the + terminal on the dome (constant 12v) thru a switch we added in the hatch handle area. grounded the new lights to a bolt in the hatch.
also from superbright, i went with warmer 3k, 4x 65lumen and the amount of light looks like it'll be awesome for grilling/usual tailgate endeavors
RLF-SMD series Recessed Light Fixture
had to make some shims for the spring tabs. use sheet of PVC and 2-1/4" hole saw (same as cutout for lights) and 3" hole saw. once all lined up put some dabs of silicone for security.
vato-zone switch
after your tip on just going straight to the light my buddy and I poked around and found how easy it was to get a wire run under the liner with minimal effort. thanks again for the tip, made the job quick.
i ended up opting for independent control, running only 1 wire to the + terminal on the dome (constant 12v) thru a switch we added in the hatch handle area. grounded the new lights to a bolt in the hatch.
also from superbright, i went with warmer 3k, 4x 65lumen and the amount of light looks like it'll be awesome for grilling/usual tailgate endeavors
RLF-SMD series Recessed Light Fixture
had to make some shims for the spring tabs. use sheet of PVC and 2-1/4" hole saw (same as cutout for lights) and 3" hole saw. once all lined up put some dabs of silicone for security.
vato-zone switch
BTW mud is an awesome site the knowledge and experience base here is amazing!! thanks everyone, i've looked at plenty o mods 'round these parts
Thanks. I didn't want to cut into the headliner. The offset of the latch makes it look like it belongs there.
OEM finish and primary/secondary protection provided by the grab handle- good work! I have the cargo light installed, but like the additional light advantage provided by this solution. What 12V supply did you use and estimated time for install? Are you using George's TaskLEDs?
Thanks
Spliced into the forward cargo light switch wires and ran the new wires back. I had to provide an additional ground wire to the switch since the mounting screws are no longer in sheetmetal. The on, off, and door settings work like stock.
It took me a few hours total because I wasnt familiar with the headliner removal and also wiring it to the back hatch was a pain and took some trial and error.
The light distribution is good at this location. Ill probably go led when the bulb Burns out.
CycloSteve
SILVER Star
Oh man, another "to do" for my never ending list. Already added the rear light above the door, now want to add ones to the door itself. It looks like daytime in some of those shots above.
Steve
Steve
looks nice n factory! i like.
did you actually remove the headliner or just some of the fasteners and droop it down? w/ my buddy's help we were able to fish a power wire to the aft cargo dome for 12V without total removal.
just as a followup to earlier work, having lights in that location is awesome for camping/grilling!!! took this pic with a cell phone at night
looks nice n factory! i like.
did you actually remove the headliner or just some of the fasteners and droop it down? w/ my buddy's help we were able to fish a power wire to the aft cargo dome for 12V without total removal.
just as a followup to earlier work, having lights in that location is awesome for camping/grilling!!! took this pic with a cell phone at night
Gawd that looks good!
I undid the 3 rear headliner fasteners and the upper d pillar panels. It drooped enough to get a straightened clothes hanger up to the other light hole to pull the new wires to the back. Be very careful with the hanger though because it can damage the headliner.
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
This thread just prompted me to go in the garage and hokey mine together that's been sitting on a shelf forever.
I just took out the middle row light(drill-4 screws), used a stiff "visibilty"? flag from the kids snowmobile(didn't have a coat hanger) to fish the new wire back to the rear. Pulled off the drivers side rear seat belt mount(14mm wrench), pulled off the side cover and the trim around the headliner.
I just pulled down the headliner from the center just enough to fish the wire out with a bent flyswatter. Woila!
Drilled 2 holes in the middle row light connectors like Guppie, pushed the wires through and wrapped them around it (didn't have little bolts yet)and then tested the rear light quick to make sure it came on. All functions fine. Just need to cut the headliner or just velcro the damn light to the headliner and call it good. Grand total of 25 minutes.
I just took out the middle row light(drill-4 screws), used a stiff "visibilty"? flag from the kids snowmobile(didn't have a coat hanger) to fish the new wire back to the rear. Pulled off the drivers side rear seat belt mount(14mm wrench), pulled off the side cover and the trim around the headliner.
I just pulled down the headliner from the center just enough to fish the wire out with a bent flyswatter. Woila!
Drilled 2 holes in the middle row light connectors like Guppie, pushed the wires through and wrapped them around it (didn't have little bolts yet)and then tested the rear light quick to make sure it came on. All functions fine. Just need to cut the headliner or just velcro the damn light to the headliner and call it good. Grand total of 25 minutes.
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I have a 93 and was wondering if you used the factory wiring harness under the headliner? Were you able to mount it to a flat position that did not stretch the headliner, and did you cut out the steel behind it? Nice job!
George
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Would like to know as well. Just got my dome ordered and bulbs from superbrightleds.com
--Mark
once again I didnt take pics because I went into this kind of blind not knowing how to deal with the headliner.
This is directions for the pre 95 models
1. remove the interior trim stripping along the top rear roof line, it stops behind the upper pillar molding and it is the color of your interior.
2. remove the rear upper pillar moldings, they are attached by simply sliding behind the window weatherstripping on the slider windows and behind the weatherstripping for the rear gate. They do have 1 push pin that is up top close to the slider window. You will also have to remove the upper seat belt mount, its a 14mm
3. carefully detach the headliner at the rear gently pulling its clips off, 2 gold clips on each side of the truck, then detach the headliner chanel from the body lip. When you get this far you will be able to see behind there as to what you are working with.
4. Find your OEM plug, it will be taped up in the square hole, drivers side roof corner, along with 2 other plugs that are being used. Get all the slack out as you will need every bit.
5. You must switch the wire locations within that plug as they are on the wrong sides of the plug. If you dont do this your OEM light wont work in the on position. Just get a pick, stick it in the plug release the wires then replace them on the opposite side of their original location.
6. Make a template of the back of your light area that you will need to be flush mounted. be careful not to cut out the screw holes areas.
7. Get to cutting, There is a flat area in the center for the light but I did have to remove a part of a little body bulge that was preventing my light from sitting flush as well.
8. Fish your wire through the body to your new lights home.
9. Plug it in to be sure it works, remember it wont work in the "ON" position until you have it mounted due to the lights ground.
10. Unplug the light and replace everything in reverse order
11. Once its all back together, put some pressur on the liner and find the hole, take a razor blade and cut just the area that has to be flushed mounted. By just cutting that area your screws will secure the headliner as well to hold it in place.
12. Now mount the light and enjoy, keep in mind the pre 95's with the OEM plug will only work in the "DOOR" setting when the liftgate is opened. But you still have the "ON" position if you need it.
This is directions for the pre 95 models
1. remove the interior trim stripping along the top rear roof line, it stops behind the upper pillar molding and it is the color of your interior.
2. remove the rear upper pillar moldings, they are attached by simply sliding behind the window weatherstripping on the slider windows and behind the weatherstripping for the rear gate. They do have 1 push pin that is up top close to the slider window. You will also have to remove the upper seat belt mount, its a 14mm
3. carefully detach the headliner at the rear gently pulling its clips off, 2 gold clips on each side of the truck, then detach the headliner chanel from the body lip. When you get this far you will be able to see behind there as to what you are working with.
4. Find your OEM plug, it will be taped up in the square hole, drivers side roof corner, along with 2 other plugs that are being used. Get all the slack out as you will need every bit.
5. You must switch the wire locations within that plug as they are on the wrong sides of the plug. If you dont do this your OEM light wont work in the on position. Just get a pick, stick it in the plug release the wires then replace them on the opposite side of their original location.
6. Make a template of the back of your light area that you will need to be flush mounted. be careful not to cut out the screw holes areas.
7. Get to cutting, There is a flat area in the center for the light but I did have to remove a part of a little body bulge that was preventing my light from sitting flush as well.
8. Fish your wire through the body to your new lights home.
9. Plug it in to be sure it works, remember it wont work in the "ON" position until you have it mounted due to the lights ground.
10. Unplug the light and replace everything in reverse order
11. Once its all back together, put some pressur on the liner and find the hole, take a razor blade and cut just the area that has to be flushed mounted. By just cutting that area your screws will secure the headliner as well to hold it in place.
12. Now mount the light and enjoy, keep in mind the pre 95's with the OEM plug will only work in the "DOOR" setting when the liftgate is opened. But you still have the "ON" position if you need it.
Excellent...thanks a lot. You don't need pics when you have a write-up like that!
--Mark
--Mark
Excellent write up! Thanks for taking the time.
vatozone LED strips, stuck to the rubber trim around the rear windows, pointed at about 45degrees out... i now have them across the rear hatch for tailgate light as well. love how even the light is... they are a little colder light than george's leds. (you can see them in the domes)
all are tied to the ground wire switch for the stock rear light. you can access that harness in the jack compartment, factory wiring manual paid for itself! ran the wire for the rear hatch wires through the rubber OEM tube. PITA, but no rear switch ground is in the hatch otherwise toyota logic is these only come on with the rear hatch, not with just doors. i dig it.
all are tied to the ground wire switch for the stock rear light. you can access that harness in the jack compartment, factory wiring manual paid for itself! ran the wire for the rear hatch wires through the rubber OEM tube. PITA, but no rear switch ground is in the hatch otherwise
toyota logic is these only come on with the rear hatch, not with just doors. i dig it.
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That's pretty slick. I've been thinking of adding another light to my hatch as a few others have done.
