Rear cargo light install, ERG80 style (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter grizzlygibbs
- Start date
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It takes 10 minutes to pull the headliner down and check to see if it's there. It's on the passengers side stuffed into the post
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Sent from my Droid thingy using IH8MUD
Btw with the factory wiring the rear light only comes on with the lift gate up. If any of the other doors are open and the lift gate is closed them only the front 2 lights come on
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BamaPaul said:
So is it on the passenger side? Someone else mentioned it was the driver side.
I am working at mine right now. 94 and it is on the drivers side. There is a clip at the top right at the corner where the roof curves that it is taped to with other wires.
Drivers side it is. I was not thinking right when I posted that.
Again it's on the drivers side pillar right behind the headliner. Sorry for the confusion.
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Again it's on the drivers side pillar right behind the headliner. Sorry for the confusion.
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OK, so you guys gave me the push I needed to install the OEM rear cargo light I've had sitting around for years, sourced from salvage. Thanks mud...you make custom mods easy.
I pulled the power from the rear light, (solder joint) as there's no D pillar loom for it, on the 95-97s, ran it thru the rubber conduit to the liftgate as posted earlier in this thread, brought it around to the latch handle, and tapped a ground from the wiper motor. These pics show trimming the back panel to suit, using a template, and a utility knife.
I pulled the power from the rear light, (solder joint) as there's no D pillar loom for it, on the 95-97s, ran it thru the rubber conduit to the liftgate as posted earlier in this thread, brought it around to the latch handle, and tapped a ground from the wiper motor. These pics show trimming the back panel to suit, using a template, and a utility knife.
In the previous pics, I decided to make a dust barrier for George's LED, so I cut a disposable nitrile glove, to use as a membrane, ran the screws thru it to sandwich between, then plugged in the loom for a good seal.
To ease installation and future servicing, I used shielded blade terminals on the power wires, and as previously posted, the ground from the wiper motor permits full operation of "door" and "on" modes of the domelight. Note the ring terminal on the motor housing in the pic.
To ease installation and future servicing, I used shielded blade terminals on the power wires, and as previously posted, the ground from the wiper motor permits full operation of "door" and "on" modes of the domelight. Note the ring terminal on the motor housing in the pic.
- Thread starter
- #69
Mine works with either the rear doors, the rear gate or both at the same time. I tapped the wires to my second row dome light before the light so the rear hatch light would work with any combination of rear doors open.
EDIT: I understand what you are saying now, the factory harness that is in the driver D pillar only allows for rear hatch operation. My bad, and thanks for your contribution to this thread Bama!
I may go to a 48 led panel for this location, but for now, George's LED throws plenty light.
The FZJ80 is a fabulous expedition vehicle, woefully underlit from the factory.
The FZJ80 is a fabulous expedition vehicle, woefully underlit from the factory.
Now I'm ready for those long Idaho winter nights
Thanks MUD
Thanks MUD
I may go to a 48 led panel for this location, but for now, George's LED throws plenty light.
I have a pair of 48 Leds from pfran42 and love them. I often only have 1 on because of how much light it gives off.
Nice install.
Stu
I used MR16 bulbs with MR16 bulb jacket and 2.5" rubber grommet . Very bright. The bulbs come from superbrightled.com
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I've collected 3 dome lights from junked cruisers. Tonight i did the physical install for two in the lift gate.
What I'm wondering is, is there any kind of provision in the sheet metal of a '94 cruiser for a cargo light in the headliner?
I mean, since i have 3 anyway, I could mount one where the headliner starts to slope down toward the liftgate, so it will be angled forward into the cargo area.
I suppose even if there isn't, I can cut the headliner backing just like i cut the lift gate plastic.
Also, I noticed today that dome lights from 95-up aren't flat on the back like earlier ones are. weird.
What I'm wondering is, is there any kind of provision in the sheet metal of a '94 cruiser for a cargo light in the headliner?
I mean, since i have 3 anyway, I could mount one where the headliner starts to slope down toward the liftgate, so it will be angled forward into the cargo area.
I suppose even if there isn't, I can cut the headliner backing just like i cut the lift gate plastic.
Also, I noticed today that dome lights from 95-up aren't flat on the back like earlier ones are. weird.
ppc
M Go Blue
There is no provisions and there is nothing solid to mount it to in the 94.
ppc
M Go Blue
I tried to create a backing plate but was never liked the fitment. No wiring, I tried to snake a wire from the 2nd row light but the headliner seemed to be glued in and the snake started to mess up the headliner so I abandoned the project. I removed the rear speakers and mounted some halogen puck lights there but I felt they ran to hot. This was years ago before LED became available.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Anyone have a spare dome light they want to get rid of? Tan. Thanks.
Two Kichler #0805255 MR11 LED landscape bulbs (see picture) 12v AC/DC (you don’t have to worry about polarity with these.
One Fernco 1-1/4-in x 1.63-in dia Flexible PVC Coupling Fitting (You will cut this to create spacers on the back side)
Shop Fernco 1-1/4-in x 1.63-in dia Flexible PVC Coupling Fittings at Lowes.com
Two 1-1/4 in dia threaded plug (Drilled out the back of this so the bulb could stick through)
Two 1-1/4 reducing coupling rings (these actually hold the bulb by the outer ridge) Won't work with halogen bulbs as the PVC cant take the heat)
Remove the back panel and move the small controller box in so that both far edge spaces on each side have room for the lights (I just drilled a new hole and relocated it in a few inches, you can compare my picture with your setup when you take it off.
One Fernco 1-1/4-in x 1.63-in dia Flexible PVC Coupling Fitting (You will cut this to create spacers on the back side)
Shop Fernco 1-1/4-in x 1.63-in dia Flexible PVC Coupling Fittings at Lowes.com
Two 1-1/4 in dia threaded plug (Drilled out the back of this so the bulb could stick through)
Two 1-1/4 reducing coupling rings (these actually hold the bulb by the outer ridge) Won't work with halogen bulbs as the PVC cant take the heat)
Remove the back panel and move the small controller box in so that both far edge spaces on each side have room for the lights (I just drilled a new hole and relocated it in a few inches, you can compare my picture with your setup when you take it off.
