If it is twisted, it is stuck. The little movement you get is the slide collar moving.
rear axle ISSHH... real time input
- Thread starter NW-sickboy
- Start date
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Start doing nuetral drops into reverse with your back tires on a hard surface... 
(completely kidding btw)
I'm interested to see if your able to get it out without "surgery", Good luck either way!
(completely kidding btw)I'm interested to see if your able to get it out without "surgery", Good luck either way!
I absolutely will wheel it stuck in there if the long side comes out and I can't get the short side out (or the third). If that is not advisable, I thank you for your concern in advance 
insert appropriately sized diameter non-conductive tube (aka, pvc pipe) until it hits the face of the broken shaft stub.
insert appropriate length and diam of welding rod. make sure she ain't touchin' anything else
apply juice.
pull like hell...
insert appropriate length and diam of welding rod. make sure she ain't touchin' anything else
apply juice.
pull like hell...
- Thread starter
- #47
if I remember correctly my locker was stuck in the locked position because the collar wouldnt move enough to unlock... you havent noticed yet because you oher side is sheard. If you just put an axle back in you will be locked full time in the rear..... right?
ouch..
here is how you break a rear axle...this is trail 12 (schoolbus) at Tellico.
Keep your eye on the rear left...get ready to cringe
http://www.atlfjc.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1632
here is how you break a rear axle...this is trail 12 (schoolbus) at Tellico.
Keep your eye on the rear left...get ready to cringe
http://www.atlfjc.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1632
- Thread starter
- #50
here is how you break a rear axle...this is trail 12 (schoolbus) at Tellico.
Keep your eye on the rear left...get ready to cringe
http://www.atlfjc.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1632
hell ya get some... its nice to see 80 owners that "get it".. you get it...! thinking i need to do a tellico trip this fall.
Jeez Dan, you really snapped that mofo with 35s and 4.88s?
Doesn't seem like what you were doing was all that unreasonable but holy heck that thing let go.
Doesn't seem like what you were doing was all that unreasonable but holy heck that thing let go.
I think it was weakened a week prior...I had sheered the PS studs and replaced them. Stress fractures, etc must have been there. I believe they were original and the rig has been wheeled hard by me and the PO.
Well, here is the update:
I am swapping the nonlocker third in and got the help of a local shop.
knuckle busters is doing the work. If you need help in Cartersville, GA (Northern GA) they are awesome and will sign up for difficult jobs for sure!
Anyway, here are some pics, sorry for the quality...cell phone...
Here is the cado on the lift:
Here is the cutout Graham made...I like this approach, uses the stock weld location and when cut with a cutoff wheel it made the repair look very stock, especially when painted up, etc:
Here is a straight shot side to side on a FF rear...just because!!
Here is the non-locker third, with 4.88s and spiders, waiting on my aussie locker to get here next week:
Here are some misc parts, gaskets, seals, etc to be installed once Graham gets the third all setup. Still need to replace the inner pinion bearing, add the aussie, and get the short studs for the housing...all en route as of yesterday:
So, long story short, if you run big tires, wheel hard, and use the factory locker...you may want to be a little PM about the rear and just put in an ARB or aussie depending on your usage and save yourself this nightmare. Christo, Clown, and NWSick have all had this happen (I think) so we have some history of multiple failures.
May not be the most gentle of people as examples, but if you wheel in places similar to what we do, with similar setups (35+ tires, lots of armor, heavy rock crawling or hard wheeling) I suggest you spend $1000 on getting an ARB in and setup right now vs. spending over that to get it back on the road when you get to this situation...unless you are good with a torch and a welder, can setup gears, etc
I am swapping the nonlocker third in and got the help of a local shop.
knuckle busters is doing the work. If you need help in Cartersville, GA (Northern GA) they are awesome and will sign up for difficult jobs for sure!
Anyway, here are some pics, sorry for the quality...cell phone...
Here is the cado on the lift:
Here is the cutout Graham made...I like this approach, uses the stock weld location and when cut with a cutoff wheel it made the repair look very stock, especially when painted up, etc:
Here is a straight shot side to side on a FF rear...just because!!
Here is the non-locker third, with 4.88s and spiders, waiting on my aussie locker to get here next week:
Here are some misc parts, gaskets, seals, etc to be installed once Graham gets the third all setup. Still need to replace the inner pinion bearing, add the aussie, and get the short studs for the housing...all en route as of yesterday:
So, long story short, if you run big tires, wheel hard, and use the factory locker...you may want to be a little PM about the rear and just put in an ARB or aussie depending on your usage and save yourself this nightmare. Christo, Clown, and NWSick have all had this happen (I think) so we have some history of multiple failures.
May not be the most gentle of people as examples, but if you wheel in places similar to what we do, with similar setups (35+ tires, lots of armor, heavy rock crawling or hard wheeling) I suggest you spend $1000 on getting an ARB in and setup right now vs. spending over that to get it back on the road when you get to this situation...unless you are good with a torch and a welder, can setup gears, etc