Real Time Help: Carb, Timing , Ignitor

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Threads
491
Messages
7,960
Location
The Sunshine State
The pig is alive...

I need help with a few things in a hurry..


Carb: Thru the window in the carb once it starts running it slowly fills to the top of the window with gas. I assume improper float setting? It will only idle with about 1/4 choke. It also hasnt run for a few years so it might just be recovering from that?

Timing: I don't have a timing light on me (ill need to borrow one). But I was adjusting the timing by hand and it looks like I am out of adjustment. If I retard it anymore than what you see here it wants to stall. I can't advance it any further because it hits the oil filter. Is it possible its a tooth off?

Coil/Resistor: On top of my coil there is a white rectangular box I am assuming its an external resistor. It was too hot to touch after a few minutes of running. Is this normal?

Thanks for all the help!

Trying to get it road worthy enough for a few mile drive down to the DMV and get some tags put on it!

image-3075942092.webp
 
Last edited:
on that cap, where is #1? You did set #1 Cyl to TDC of compression and verify via pressure thru empty spark plug hole or by checking both I+E valves were closed with clearance @#1? you may be a tooth off, but it looks close to me
improper float setting or bad needle valve seat can allow too much fuel into the bowl. take off the airhorn and invert it and check clearance between the now bottom most edge of the float to the now top of gasket surface and compare to spec(about .20"), then gently lift the float till it reaches the stop and measure and compare to spec clearance between the middle tab of float to plunger of needle valve- this clearance is small, tiny index drill bit kit help find this tolorance. adjustments can be made by bending the middle tab for raised float stop and the outer tabs of the float for dropped float stops.
ballast resistor will get hot>heat is byproduct of resistance, in every case.
 
Just from quick memory, when #1 is @ TDC, the rotor should be pointing roughly at the #4 cylinder's spark plug.
Is it? Hard to tell from your image right off...
What year is ignition? You may be describing the resistor that I cannot remember the name of that basically diverts current between start and run conditions.
 
. I can't advance it any further because it hits the oil filter.


You could be a tooth off, or...get the smaller oil filter from Toyota. Or, move all your plug wires counter-clockwise one hole, then rotate the dizzy clockwise.
Fuel filling the floatbowl is either bad float, bad float adjustment or bad needle valve.
Needing a little choke to idle usually indicates a vacuum leak.
The resistor does get hot, that's normal.
 
Back
Top Bottom