Rainman's Brake Lines (1 Viewer)

[shipmag]

I would be interested in a set but I would drive to your location yo put them in the back of my pickup rather than have to rebend them after shipping. I am months away from needing it so take your time and let us know the price. I have a July 76 FJ40.

 

[motovate]

I'm a little slow in answering but I am keeping track. I finally got the site or the site finally got it turned on for email notices of threads, so I'm following right along. I think I confused the issue with my 66 body frame. It is the 66 body frame but will be the 76 FJ40/55 drive train so with the exception of the rear disc brakes every thing for a 76 should fit. So I 'm not looking for the 9mm connectors - others may be - to keep it stock but I'd think most look to change over to the 10 mm???

I hadn't thought much about the connection/connectors on the axles on 66 as all being 9mm - just about the brake connections. Questions ask here made me think it over again and I don't think any of those will be a problem since I'll use the 76 connectors on the axles which are all probably 10 mm. As for as the front connections on the calipers the one I'll be using and I suspect everyone is using are all 10mm since they are stock 76. The rear calipers are Monte Carlo 1980 calipers and are 10 mm which use a rubber line between the steel line and the caliber. I believe the rubber lines in effect make it simple for the rear connections . The stock steel lines on the rear are reused and may be just a little long and may need to be bent a little bit for a good fit. A little "Tombstone" bracket is fit and then welded to the axle for the rubber line to hook into and hold the metal 10 mm line. I think possibly that the stock- as you build /modify your lines - will fit just right and the only "modifying" would be a little shorter ends on the rear axle short & long lines might be in order. The problem there would be the length of the rubber lines which could very well differ with each rear disc modifications.

So I am looking forward to your pricing guidelines specifiably for the 1976 FJ 40's.

Hopefully not to confuse things but I expect to break down the FJ 55 I am using for the running gear this summer pulling the body off first. At that time I would willingly get you good Photos of the entire brake system of the FJ55 if you are at all interested in them and send them to you directly. Just in case you want to mess with the FJ 55's in the future. I could do the same on the 66 except I'm not pulling the body - I could probably get you photos of it well enough in case you want to mess with the old old 40's.

LBM

LBM,

In the near future, we will need to talk about your rig and find out what's different with your setup. I'm up for the challenge but we'll also have to talk about what extra time it will take me. It's still early so I'll be easy.

 

[Rainman]

I would be interested in a set but I would drive to your location yo put them in the back of my pickup rather than have to rebend them after shipping. I am months away from needing it so take your time and let us know the price. I have a July 76 FJ40.

That sounds good to me. I'm close to having a price sheet. I suspect that when that happens I may be forced to move to the vendors section. I could well be on the way to a production line for making sets. I'm almost completely set up other than the fact that the last piece, a bending buck I came up with, has a couple of issues. When that gets figured out I'll be ready to make duplicates.

 

[Rainman]

I'm a little slow in answering but I am keeping track. I finally got the site or the site finally got it turned on for email notices of threads, so I'm following right along. I think I confused the issue with my 66 body frame. It is the 66 body frame but will be the 76 FJ40/55 drive train so with the exception of the rear disc brakes every thing for a 76 should fit. So I 'm not looking for the 9mm connectors - others may be - to keep it stock but I'd think most look to change over to the 10 mm???

LBM

I understand what you're doing. The only issues would be the connecting fittings on the frame rail for the firewall lines. Are they '76? And are the fittings on the axle in the same place as the 40? If so and you're using the big booster and MC that's common to the FJ40 then we're very close. Is the firewall of the '66 the same as a '76? What's different? You can see where I'm going with this. I'd hate to get the kit sent to you and find out there are minor differences that create a problem for an entire line.

Once I'm running and you have these questions all answered, then we should be good for a full kit.

 

[Rainman]

Okay. The line nuts again.

I just went around the 40 and tested the Stepped Nut VS the Full Thread Nut in each hole. Here's what I found:

Both worked.
Both secured the line.
The Stepped Nut had a consistent two fewer threads in each hole.
MC: ST Nut = 5 threads FT Nut = 7 threads
Rear Wheel Cyl: ST Nut = 4 threads FT Nut = 6 threads
Axle housing fitting: ST Nut = 5 threads FT Nut = 7 threads
Frame Rail fittings: ST Nut = 6 threads FT Nut = 8 threads

I personally like the wider 45* flare, the extra threads connecting, and the shorter leftover of the nut outside the hole.
AND. And I mean a big AND, the stepped nuts cost almost double what the others cost. That adds about $20 to a kit.

As some of you have stated that you want the stepped nut, fine. I have no problem with that.

Just remember, don't over torque a brake line nut. Having the most threads engaged possible makes that harder to over do. Just because I like analogies, consider this; Grab onto a chin-up bar with all eight fingers and thumbs. Hang on for a while. Now try the same thing for the same amount of time with only two fingers per hand. How long will you last?

 

[motovate]

Yes good questions. Since the firewall is different on the older 40's and it will be modified to be more like the newer 40's and I'm not sure just what I'll be using as far as brake master, booster or if I go with hydro boost the line from booster to junction may or may not work. I'll just have to compare where the junctions on the axles are in relation to the 40's are - it is my understanding that the 55 and 40 axles are the same and just move across - but that does not mean the junctions are all in the same location. I suppose I can just put them where ever the lines locate them but it will be awhile before I answer those questions and I'm sure by then you will have sorted out your process. It may end up I only use some of your stock lines and possibly work out some special order lines for the odd positions.

LBM

I understand what you're doing. The only issues would be the connecting fittings on the frame rail for the firewall lines. Are they '76? And are the fittings on the axle in the same place as the 40? If so and you're using the big booster and MC that's common to the FJ40 then we're very close. Is the firewall of the '66 the same as a '76? What's different? You can see where I'm going with this. I'd hate to get the kit sent to you and find out there are minor differences that create a problem for an entire line.

Once I'm running and you have these questions all answered, then we should be good for a full kit.

 

[Rainman]

Here's the latest redesigned line for an FJ40. It's the passenger side short line on the rear axle or, RAS (Rear Axle Short) as I call it.

I've routed it for the potential location for remounting the rear shock. I'f you put u-bolt skid plates on, you can move the lower mount of the shock to a post in the hole right about the spring pack. (shown in the photo)

You may notice there aren't any nuts on the line. That's how I distinguish the difference between a "master" pattern line and one ready for shipping. I flare the ends without a nut so it can't be used. I will have one full "master" set that way.

 

[shipmag]

So if we get a line without a nut we know you sent us your master good point.

 

[Rainman]

Yeah, and then I'll shoot the person who sent it. One problem solved. WAIT! It would be me.

...scratch that...

Never gonna happen.

 

[Rainman]

I'm almost complete on making the first set of "master" lines. Almost finished with pricing. Basically done with the shop setup and I have a shipment of stock tubing and nuts to last a while. Now, after talking with a few people it looks like I will have to set up an LLC business. If one of those crazy Land Cruiser drivers installs the lines wrong and it fails, I need to be covered if he/she decides to sue me for bad lines. Not that that would ever happen but I'd hate to not be prepared. I can't have this biz included in my commercial illustration/photo retouching business.

SO thanks to those of you who have asked for kits in the somewhat near future. I plan on getting those all completed but it still may take a couple of weeks or so to get all of this ironed out. I do have a few lines already made waiting. They will most likely be mounted on my project truck. I won't sue me.

 

[Rainman]

One more step in the right direction. I have inventory now!

The top spool of steel/poly is blurred because it's still going "boing" out of the box as I took the picture.

 

[antFJ]

I would mark them "Off Road Use Only" and definitely get an LLC. Looking good!

 

[shipmag]

If we have a rear brake conversion that isn't standard and we would have to make that line our selves. Each rear conversion welds those tabs for the flex line in a different place I am sure. other than make them ourselves what are our options? If I have to make that one I might as well make the rest of them because I will have to learn to bend and flare the rear line right?

 

[SSCR]

Got my line today, thanks Rainman!!!

Excellent service with quick shipping!!!


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Rainman]

If we have a rear brake conversion that isn't standard and we would have to make that line our selves. Each rear conversion welds those tabs for the flex line in a different place I am sure. other than make them ourselves what are our options? If I have to make that one I might as well make the rest of them because I will have to learn to bend and flare the rear line right?

That's your option. But. If you can tell me where the new tab is compared to the old one or take a few shots from different angles and give me a close estimate of the differences, I'll bet I can bend one up for you that's close enough to tweak into place. If the only difference is the tab, all I have to do is make the adjustment while bending it up on one end. The rest of the line will be the same. What m/yr is your make?

 

[Rainman]

@SSCR,

...and anyone else replacing the MPV (or) short brake line from the rear MC outlet to the Proportioning valve, I recommend removing the two nuts that mount the PV to the bottom of the MC and thread the lower end of the new line in most of the way. Then mount the top line nut most of the way into the MC. Remount the PV to the booster and then tighten the two line nuts. That will get rid of some of the frustration that such a short, unforgiving line creates.

 

[shipmag]

Mine is a 76 FJ40. It will be a long time before I do the rear conversion. I am waiting for it to be painted before I do any of the brake stuff if the painter ever gets it done. So the exact location of the tab is unknown at this time.

 

[Rainman]

I'm guessing yours won't be an issue. And '76 fits right in with the patterns I already have.

 

[Vae Victus]

Any ideas how to motivate a wife's cousin to hurry up and get it painted?

That's a worst case scenario shipmag. If it was your cousin, you could give him a good beating, or threaten one.

Rainman showed me his "production facility" earlier this week. He's got the tools, and the forms. Should be able to make some beautiful lines.

 

[Rainman]

I would mark them "Off Road Use Only" and definitely get an LLC. Looking good!

I juuuust might do that.

The forms have been filled out and the LLC fee sent in. My price list is almost complete too. When I have perfected the two firewall lines, I'll post pictures of the complete set and will be in biz shortly after.