Rainman's Brake Lines

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Make me an offer I can't refuse...

I now work at Hardcore Horsepower & Dyno in Franklin, TN. In a week or two I'll be redesigning a complete brake line set for a '75 Camaro. Completely stripped and no lines to go from. Should be fun... I hope.

But really, how many lines do you need? For which mo/yr?

If enough people are needing kits, I'll POSSIBLY consider opening up for a while again with a higher price. I just couldn't keep going with my old prices. Please post with needs.
 
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It would be for a '68. Full set. But it's still got the single master and I'd like to switch to a dual so researching what that entails....
 
I hope you find a price that makes it worth your time. I will be interested at some point but not in the foreseeable future but down the road would be a nice option to have.

If i could provide a product that people want I would do a couple things. I also do this when trying to figure out if something is worth my time as I have very limited time most of the year. Today I left for work at 8am, got home at 920pm, and now Im "working" on my couch.

I would Figure out how long it takes you to make a set in hours
materials cost for a set
what do you need to charge per hour to make it worth your time. 30.00 an hour 72.00 an hour.
figure out the price of the set.

The cruiser market isnt huge but its hopefully to a point where people will pay for a quality product when one is avail.


I have seen and read about the quality product you make so I hope you find a way to put some money in your pockets for your hard work.


If you dont want to do it forever make a goal of something you want to buy or put in savings and work until you reach that then stop again.
 
I need of a full set for my 72 resto. I'm running disk all the way around with a 78 axle up front and posers disk kit in the back. Crossing my fingers you will get back in the game!

Josh
 
I will briefly explain a key "why" detail.

Something (sue-able) happened at the distillery. They wouldn't fix it so I left.
The day before I gave my notice, I asked for a job at a hot rod shop and got it.
I quit on Tuesday and started my new job on Wednesday. About 6 weeks ago.

This new job is awesome! For a month now it's just me and the boss too.
The reason I "may" be able to do some lines is that it's not full time yet. About 25hrs a week. That's leaving time for illustration, mowing..., keeping up the 5 acres, and just maybe Rainman's Brake Lines.

The cancer issue is still in deliberation. My numbers just won't go away. Feel good and won't let it get me for more than one day at a time. So far that's only 3 days after nearly two years. I can live with that.

The '32 keeps running out of money but is currently getting some needed professional help right now. Soon it will be brought home and my new boss said we can Finish it at the shop on my own time.
 
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Rainman. Is it possible for you to make a Clutch line for a 1984 NON USA FJ40? Thanks
 
Rainman. Is it possible for you to make a Clutch line for a 1984 NON USA FJ40? Thanks
 
Only if you can send a line that's still in the right shape. I don't have a way to pattern that. If you can find a 1984 Non USA FJ40 in my neighborhood, that would work but I seriously doubt it.

Or if you don''t have the line, and have the skills to give me perfect dimensions from hole A to hole B and the path. That MIGHT work. Remember, I don't always go by factory lines when I can improve the path.
 
Only if you can send a line that's still in the right shape. I don't have a way to pattern that. If you can find a 1984 Non USA FJ40 in my neighborhood, that would work but I seriously doubt it.

Or if you don''t have the line, and have the skills to give me perfect dimensions from hole A to hole B and the path. That MIGHT work. Remember, I don't always go by factory lines when I can improve the path.

Great, Let me see if I can find one. I think It's the same as a 1983 USA version.

Thanks
 
Okay!

I've taken two orders now. I should be able to get to work on those by next week. I've come up with new prices for each line. I try my best to make the best lines available. So far my customers seem to be very happy. I just wasn't worth my time trying to be very competitive. So here's my stab at the new costs. I don't think they're out of line for what you're getting. I hope you agree.

Late FJ40s.webp
 
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So no 'kit' of the 9mm stuff for a 4/68 FJ40 ?
 
I need to update my parts list.. What I have right now for the early trucks is:
Front Frame Loop FFL - That's the one that runs under the front bib of the truck.
Rear Axle Short RAS
Passenger to Front P2F - That's the short line that connects the loop to the right side flex hose.
Driver to Front D2F - Short line on the driver's side to the flex hose.
Rear Wheel Cylinder RWC - Short line on rear wheel brakes.
Master to Frame M2F - That's the line from the master to the front frame loop.
Rear Axle Long RAL
Early Chassis ECH - Early chassis line from front to rear on the frame.



Screen Shot 2017-08-23 at 7.37.09 PM.webp

Those listed multiple times are for same pattern lines like the wheel cylinders.
I've created mirror lines for the front so they can go on forward or backward. All 4 are the same.

A) 58-7-70 front RBL.webp
A) 58-7-70 rear RBL.webp
 
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An editorial note.

All 10mm line nuts match the copper color lines with cad plated nuts. The 9mm nuts are silver to help prevent the mistake of putting the wrong size on the wrong line. Not much difference in the overall look but a big difference in production.
 
It would be for a '68. Full set. But it's still got the single master and I'd like to switch to a dual so researching what that entails....

I did a set for a Cruiser with the booster and dual setup. I can recreate that for you. Check out this thread and see what I did:

STPCHLD's rebirth recorded
 
Without the booster you won't need to convert to one reservoir. There shouldn't be any clearance problems.
 
UPDATE!!!

I do have the ECH and RAL. Spike is sending me samples to verify though. I want to double check those as lines from truck to truck could have minor issues undetectable without the actual truck. (Neglect in my little shop in the basement has left it as extra storage for the wife... Cleaning up to get jump started revealed some things including those two patters.)

And just in case you missed it in this thread, it's worth mentioning that the reason I now only use NiCop lines is for multiple reasons. The one I want to mention here is that it's much easier to make minor corrections with these as you install them in case of: Mainly, slight changes during shipping and of course minor slips on my part. I wish I had FJ40s from all eras sitting here for test fittings all the time but I don't. I have one master steel pattern line for all pieces. Ending up a degree or two off is always possible. I try to prevent that but it is what it is.
 
I kinda hate to do a disclaimer but I think it's in the best interest of all here.

I just simply am not making enough money right now to justify the cost. (I know it's not much but it is right now.) So I'll post this:

I do not offer any warranty on these lines as I'm not the one installing them. These lines and fittings will last for a very long time. The NiCop material will never rust or corrode. The fittings are not as permanent. They are plated but steel nevertheless and may eventually corrode just as the factory fittings do. I do not claim responsibility if you cross thread any of the nuts installing them. That's on you.

This may not qualify as a legal document but I also don't think many people who frequent this site have a problem with my statements either. Now, back to enjoying life...
 
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Date changes (corrected) on post #292. Some of the dates on 4 parts were labeled wrong. Thanks to @teleskier for asking about those.
 
Pause in production...

My supplier of the NiCopp lines missed shipping the new coils to me when he said he would. Gonna miss a couple of days. I don't think it will effect the two full orders I have right now. I am making progress.

Below are Early FJ40 lines and Late FJ40 lines. (note the different color nuts)

small lines.webp
 

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