I thought I'd see if anyone might be interested in seeing my latest project . It is a 76 fj55 that a friend picked up from washington state last year . Originally when we talked about it we were going to try to find a 2h and turbo it . A h55 is the tranny of choice . We found an HJ60 for a pretty good price only it had an auto which was not the tranny we wanted . We hauled it home and stashed it in his yard next to the pig . There they sat for about a year until we finally decided to get started . In the meantime the owner managed to find a 12ht and h55 from a japanese 60 .Got lucky I guess . Pretty excited to see how it turns out . I started a few months ago removing the 2f and mounts . A few days ago I brought a 89fj62 into the shop to dismantle ,knowing that some of the stuff would be used on the pig project . We are going to keep it 12v . He wants to have A/C and power steering . I decided to use a 60 series box as well as the column .
Quick first pig build
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- #2
I removed the shock tower and trimmed the inner fender a bit to locate the box according to where the pitman arm would best positioned hoping to avoid any possible bump steer issues . I noticed that when I got it real close to where I thought it would end up , it turns out there is a threaded mounting hole for the shock tower that I decided to use to index the box on the frame . I bolted it to the frame via that bolt then transferred the rest of the pattern from the box onto the frame . I sleeved the three remaining holes and bolted it up .
This is going to be nice and take alot of pictures!
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- #4
I was curious at this point to see how close the column and steering shaft would be to fitting properly . I cut the floormount off the 62 column and replaced it with the one form the 55 . I had to enlarge the hole to clear the u-joints but It seems to work . Then I hooked up the shaft . It seemed to fit nicely . I think the column is a no brainer if you want to have a tilt column . We will have to integrate the controls into the harness but I do not forsee a problem at this point . I think it looks pretty good . Pretty much factory looking ish .
you're gunna weld the steering box sleeves to the frame and fish plate the inside where the nut are, right? Keep it up!
having not done this yet myself
, I'd planned on doing exactly what you've shown, beveling the ends of the sleeves so that I could get a nice layer of penetration with minimal need for grinding, but I was also planning on drilling holes on the back side of the frame in order to rosette weld the inside ends of the sleeves in several places, and then fish plate the inside of the frame rail with some 1/4" material to prevent any chance of pull thru, twisting or shifting. Prolly overkill on the rosette welds, but i think the fish plate is good insurance for my wants nonetheless. It's looking good so far, keep it up!
Too Tall,
I fish plated both sides of my frame and used the DOM tubing, also. This gives the frame alot of strength in the steering box area. While you're right there, now is the time to beef it up, don't want a cracked frame, down the road.
I fish plated both sides of my frame and used the DOM tubing, also. This gives the frame alot of strength in the steering box area. While you're right there, now is the time to beef it up, don't want a cracked frame, down the road.
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- #9
Screwed around with the relay rod this morning and ended up using the 60 series relay rod with the drivers side tie rod end from a small knuckle 40 series . The taper fit into the pig tie rod on the passenger side and and the threads are the same . Weird how a lot of cruiser parts coincidentally match up . I get full lock to lock and it is all stock .
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- #10
After that I couldn't resist seeing how the new drivetrain looks in the hole . Seems like there is enough room between the rad and the firewall for everything . Gotta go away to work for a few days , I'll get back to it in a week or so .
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- #11
I got the drivetrain where I wanted it . Fits pretty nice . After that I removed it and finished all the welds and cleanup . THen I sprayed the affected area with rust bullet . I use to use por 15 buy I find this product is much better . After that I spent a couple of days prepping the engine bay . I welded in a patch where it look like a factory a/c unit was installed at some point . There were two holes so I'm assuming the first one was in the wrong spot . Looks like a factory option . Not sure about the technician at the time ? I'll get some pics of the unit later . Anyway here are a few of the latest . I started detailing and painting the engine .I found a blue that matches the factory color pretty close . You could spend a lot of time doing this . It's very gratifying when you remove the mask . The owner stopped by and mentioned that I shouldn't go too crazy , so not too much more . I sprayed the engine bay with t-12 Cygnus white . Not very white though . It has a lot of green in it . Looked at the original color on the roof and it seems to match though , so I guess that's it . Getting pretty excited . Probably gonna put it back in tomorrow .
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- #13
Yes the tilt still works as it did in the 62 . As far as the ebrake , The owner apparently bought a rear end from a japanese truck which is full float and has drums with an e-brake provision not sure if it is a 60 or 70 ? Hope fully see it soon . Haven't fully decided which gear ratio to run yet . The truck has 3.73's currently I think . Probably see how it is with those first . Gonna try to stay around a 33" tire .
how much power does the engine make? 4:11s are a great ratio for the 2F with 33s...but by all means, try the 3.7s first. looking good...
Nice feature. Not sure that I could give up the old school steering wheel or simplicity of the OE column, but tilt wound be awesome.
The 60 axles are wider, 70s are the same width, full float, drum with e brake provisions, so hopefully what he purchased. Have found researching similar, due to H55/split case swap, that the perches have to move around a 1/2" each side and the pinion flange "may" differ, but otherwise the 70 is a perfect swap.
Edited: the title is a complete oxymoron, considering the terms "quick", "first", and "build" combined with Pig do not belong in the same breath. Hahaha.
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- #16
I got the engine back in and quite a lot of other stuff done . I used an airbox from an hdj81 , it fit nicely on the pass side . I also used the booster from an 80 series as well . I ended up using a brake master from a 60 series . I used a booster on the clutch from a jdm 60 as well . We managed to get a lot of the column wiring tied into stock harness , so it now has intermitten wipers and headlights where they would be in a 60 . The only part we are having trouble with is the hazard switch which isn't too bad in the factory location , just the switch on the column doesn't work . I drove it today from one bay to the other under it's own power but no throttle cable or coolant in it yet . Tomorrow will do some more testing I think . Still have to get a power steering belt and a few other little things but it is getting close . The position ended up in a really good spot . There is good clearance everywhere . I am very happy where it ended up .
I'm useing an 80 airbox base with the 60 lid. The stock brackets didn't work out for me, so I had to remove them, but I'm getting close. I'm trying to get the intake into the fender opening and have the hood close.
Your's looks like it came from the factory that way, good job!
When it's done, you won't want to give it back to the owner.
Your's looks like it came from the factory that way, good job!
When it's done, you won't want to give it back to the owner.
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- #19
The mounts for the 80 box had to be shortened a bit . I also rotated it a bit to clear a few things . The mount on the rear position had a bit more trimmed off then the front . I also had to trim the steel rad support flange on the rear of the radiator to fit the box as well . The rubber tubing is from supra I believe ? Might be from a 62 ? I have a bin I keep large tubing like that I find in so not sure ? I'll look and see if there is a number on it if you want ? I still had to use a piece of silicone as a bushing to mate it to the 80 box but I'm confident it will work fine . The overflow bottle is one of the little things I still have to do . Getting a bit tight in there . I have another battery tray from another 55 I was going to use in the open area on the drivers side of the engine bay . That along with the overflow and the windsheild washer bottle and it should be pretty much buttoned up . Gonna try a straight 2-1/2" exhaust with no muffler and see how it is ? The turbo does a lot to quiet it down so we'll see . I figured out the throttle cable late last night so as soon as the part place is open I'll get the antifreeze and the two lines I still need . Then I am going to go for a drive . Will report back later .
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- #20
Took it for a drive . all is well . I'm going to swap the rear end today and get it ready for inspection . The owner will probably drive it for a bit before if goes in for paint . Pulls hard in this truck . I think I need one for myself . Had a little issue with air in the fuel after I took it for a drive then parked it didn't want to start right away . Cracked the bleeder and primed the air out and it started like it should . Not sure what would cause air to get into the fuel line other than a leak somewhere ? There was no vacumn pressure under the gas cap.