Question Regarding Battery Connections (1 Viewer)

[ColoradoLC]

I replaced my alternator this last weekend with a 150A alternator from a Sequoia. I have been going back through and checking all of my electrical connections as I put back the battery tray and battery to make sure everything is good.

When I hooked what I thought were the positive leads back up to the battery, they sparked, indicating I had something wrong, so I wanted to check with the electrical gurus here that may have more experience than me with some of these two parts. In the picture below, it is the black box and the white/gray connector next to it.

In the picture above, I have two wires coming out of the black box, which was in the 80 when I bought it back in 2008. The wire on the left broke off when I went to connect it after putting the battery back in, so I made a new wire and attached it back via a ring terminal. This really sparked and started melting the wire, so I've removed it temporarily.

However, when I connect both to the positive lead on the battery, it sparks. What am I doing wrong here? Should one of these go to the negative lead on the battery? If so, which one?

Also, since the whiteish/grayish connector on the right in the above picture is connected to the same terminal as the wire on the left in the black box, I'm assuming that should stay put.

Thanks for any insight you may have.

 

[Aeneiad]

That's your fusible link and you need a new one. They are cheap so get two, one to replace the old one and one as a spare. All 3 from the fusible link are factory connected and go to the positive terminal. Seriously...yours is trashed - get a new one.

Part Number 90982-08264

 

[ColoradoLC]

It looked pretty trashed to me too. I wasn't sure if it was stock. Thanks!

 

[ColoradoLC]

Does anyone happen to have the part for this? I see it now above. Thanks Aeneiad and bhsdriller. I’m going to try to source one locally first.

 

[bhsdriller]

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[BILT4ME]

Does anyone happen to have the part for this? I see it now above. Thanks Aeneiad and bhsdriller. I’m going to try to source one locally first.

You may want to figure out WHY it was letting out the smoke so vehemently BEFORE you just attach the new fusible links or you'll be replacing them with another, then another, then another...........

How about a couple of "overall" pics of your battery area and advise what wiring changes you made (if any) when you did the Photoman upgrade to the Sequoia alternator? The wiring on the back of that has to be upgraded to handle the increased amperage and if it was done improperly, maybe that's your source of the issue.

 

[ColoradoLC]

I do have a lot of connections in there, including the IBS dual battery system. Everything was working fine before the alternator switch, but it is possible. I also have solar feeding into the second battery along with a stereo system that was in the rig when I purchased it, and 5 12v receptacles that I’ve added.

what I’m doing now is disconnecting everything and just making sure it runs fine with the plain vanilla system before I add back anything over the stock setup. I’ll do that tomorrow and see how it goes.

I’m betting I’ll find the issue along the way.

 

[Photoman]

Post #127 and #128 in this thread shows basic upgrade wiring for the upgrade alternator. If wired this way, the blue fusible link; the one coming from the Main in the AM1/Main plastic box to battery positive, is not needed. Post #128 shows the easier way to connect the old charging wire from the alternator "B" post to the new fuse block. As mentioned in the post, it is important to put it on the correct side of the fuse block.

 

[ColoradoLC]

Thanks Photoman. I’ll look at that now. Other than the new alternator being tough to get into position, your kit was great!

 

[REKCUT]

Order from toyota for less $$. Fusible Link 90982-08264 | Toyota Parts - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-fusible-link-9098208264

 

[jonheld]

Order from toyota for less $$.

For the amount of money I usually tip a food delivery driver, I'd rather support a member of our community that supports us.

 

[ColoradoLC]

Photoman, I walked all the way through this thread and it does indeed appear that my fusible link smoking issue was due to the 150A alternator as you described in post #119 of the thread. I'm going to follow your lead and use the fuse block similarly to what you recommended.

 

[REKCUT]

For the amount of money I usually tip a food delivery driver, I'd rather support a member of our community that supports us.

Your choice absolutely. I like to order for local dealer that has good customer service and 1 day delivery.

 

[Photoman]

Photoman, I walked all the way through this thread and it does indeed appear that my fusible link smoking issue was due to the 150A alternator as you described in post #119 of the thread. I'm going to follow your lead and use the fuse block similarly to what you recommended.

I did a crude test and video with a new fusible link and it would take the full 150 amps for about a minute before it started smoking. If a fusible link is in bad shape, like some of the wire strands broken, then it would go bad sooner. Of course, an alternator is only going to put out what the regulator decides so if the system only needs 40 amps that is all the alternator is going to output. It would be interesting if you had access to a clamp on amp meter and could see how much you are pulling from the alternator with your electrical stuff turned on. For what it is worth, it is a good idea to upgrade the ground wire too, and I like to add a ground wire directly from the alternator body to the block.