Purchased a 90 4runner with wheel bearing issues & a desire 2 swap th auto 4 a 5speed

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SuperDuperCruizer

SuperDuperCruizer

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Takoma Park, MD
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The 3.0 is a dog or maybe it's the automatic it came with. I picked the truck up for $1500.00. I drove it home the 60 miles without any problems. It has 150,000 miles & idles rough, but the idle problem improved with new plugs & distr. cap/rotor. The engine seems to struggle in overdrive. So, it has a hard time maintaining 70 mph without kicking down to the lower gear. Can I swap in a R150F & transfer case without any problems. I did a search and couldn't find anything about converting from an auto to a manual. I did see a lot of recommendations to find a 3.4, but I'm just looking to get this reliable for my brother to use the next couple years. What do you guys think? Did I make a bad purchase? It has very light surface rust starting on the frame & the engine doesn't smoke or anything. The engine & transfer are leaking oil, but nothing drastic.

Here's a few pictures:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Truck/IMG_1670.JPG

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Truck/IMG_1671.JPG

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Truck/IMG_1672.JPG

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Truck/IMG_1673.JPG

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Truck/IMG_1674.JPG
 
SuperDuperCruizer said:
The 3.0 is a dog or maybe it's the automatic it came with. I picked the truck up for $1500.00. I drove it home the 60 miles without any problems. It has 150,000 miles & idles rough,




Check eng light on??


3.0hs:frown: arent bad you just need to know what to expect, HEADERS and an E-Fan are cheaper than any conversion.












but the idle problem improved with new plugs & distr. cap/rotor. The engine seems to struggle in overdrive. So, it has a hard time maintaining 70 mph without kicking down to the lower gear.




Are you saying that to keep it at speed it kicks down?



Check the kick down cable adjustment.











Can I swap in a R150F & transfer case without any problems. I did a search and couldn't find anything about converting from an auto to a manual. I did see a lot of recommendations to find a 3.4,


If you DO go 5sp, 3.4 DEFINITELY!!!!



A.T forget it.






but I'm just looking to get this reliable for my brother to use the next couple years.


As reliable as 3.0 and more CuZ its basicly same exept for heads.



What do you guys think? Did I make a bad purchase? It has very light surface rust starting on the frame & the engine doesn't smoke or anything. The engine & transfer are leaking oil, but nothing drastic.
Click to expand...





Sell the eng and Tranny get 5sp crossmember and shafts, 3.4 and R150 should be Ez..


It's a Toyota isent it, then NO you made a great purchase.



I happen to love 4runners they WILL out turn out handle ANYTHING SUV on the road, out 4Wheel ANY SUV off-road, get between anything off-road, Baaad A$$ IFS, coil spring rear is great (I LOVE my PanHard bar!!), I'll take'em all day long if you dont want'em, want one so bad to mount an ExCab on, SWB, Coil rear and Factory.
 
No check engine lights on or anything. The tranny down shifts to keep the speed up. If the old 3.0 had a little more power it could stay in over drive without the need to down shift. I think I've found a 5-speed for $300 from an 88 pickup. I figured I could rebuild it, make the swap, and sell the auto to recover some of the costs. So, the drive shafts are a different length & I need to find the cross member as well? I feel better about the purchase now that I've looked at what they are going for on EBay & in Craigs list.

Thanks for suggestion. I'll check the kick down adjustment next.
 
It's not bad doing the 5-speed swap, ya just gotta get all the parts. Tranny/transfer, clutch, flywheel, clutch hydraulics, pedals. Center console parts will probably be the hardest, getting them the correct color and in decent condition. I believe the driveshafts and crossmember are the same, call Bud at Budbuilt, he'll know for sure.

You probably won't get much for that tranny, don't get your hopes up.

The 3.4 swap is cool, but it can get REALLY expensive.
 
I second that 2nd gen.there should be no reason that it cant maintain speed in overdrive.my 85 with 22re and auto can maintain 70 on the freeway all day long in overdrive as long as there is not 40 mph headwinds.and i'm running 33's with 4.88 gears.
 
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I bet it's got Big tires on it :rolleyes: have not looked yet


But still think the kick down cable is too tight.


Say someone took the heads off for HG failure and put cable back on........



Also important 4:56 or 4:11's ??


My 4:56's spend more time shifting cause the way I drive. (235/75x15 & 8.5 MPG :))


4:11's would have motor at low RPM where the torque curve DOESENT live, and hence "is a dog". (@ 12+ MPG :))
 
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Auto is in the console, not on the steering.

Looks just like my old one. Where are you located? If you're at altitude, the 3.0 is pretty slow. What size tires are on it? Most of the 90s with the rear tire carrier came with 31s and had 4.88 gears. Going to 235s would help the performance. Call your local Toy dealer with the VIN and see if the head gaskets have been replaced. At 150k, I suspect that they have, but you never know. Mine were still good at 115k.

Also, some new springs in the rear will eliminate that saggy butt and improve the ride a lot.
 
90/91s with the 31" tires and auto had 4.88s. Think it was called the "Power Package". Axle code was G144, I think.
 
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