Pulls to left on accel, pulls to right on decel..

[Brav]

Hi guys - I need help on figuring this one out. I am prepping for Rubicon, and front brakes were worn, decided on front brake job, rear inspection, service all fluids, plugs, etc etc and a few other odds and ends.

I have had my Dobinsons MRR 2.5" lift on for 2 years, including all new rear upper/lower arms, new radius arm bushings (castor correcting), with exception of having OME front springs due to Dob VT springs being backordered 2 years ago. The VT springs came in a while ago yet never installed. I figured I would finally throw these VT 2.5 +200 lb front springs in while doing a big service. Ride height did not change more than 1/4" after settling. List of things I did in addition to springs:

• Front/rear diff service, tcase service, trans service, spark plugs..
• Landtank HD rear sway bar links and brackets
• Landtank LSPV brackets
• Front sway bar disconnect
• Turned front rotors, new OEM pads
• New Timken wheel bearings x4, new seals, repack
• Replaced one sticky rear brake caliper pin
• Tire rotation (Yoko MT's are feathering a bit, will be buying new 35" tires soon)
• Center rear track bar (was off by about 0.5-.75")

Prior to this, a month ago I did an alignment and it drove perfectly straight. no pull. Castor about 1.6 deg (I have correction bushings). I know its low. but drives decently.

After this work, after really only changing front springs and rear track bar, It does not feel confident on the road. even under light acceleration, it will pull left. If I let off the gas, it pulls right. Braking does not seem to really affect the pull right much. At first I thought it was brakes dragging, as the rears seemed to not have been working much prior to servicing and installing the LSPV. I will say, braking feels MUCH BETTER after installing and adjusting that thing. But after driving a while and letting the brakes, springs, etc all settle/break in, the pulling continued. Leads me to believe something somehow must have gotten loose in the suspension.. but everything is essentially new, and tight. It felt this way right away, so I don't think it was an axle hub nut coming lose..


Has anyone had a similar issue? Ideas? I have read other threads about this symptom, but no real resolutions.

 

[CharlieS]

I'm suspicious of the rear track bar adjustment. Could change the handling. I think the better fix is to relocate the bar with a bracket.

I know nothing about it, but search on sagitta here on 'mud, I know there is a lot of discussion about it in the 200 forum.

I use the Eimkeith brackets, and I know that Delta makes one too.

 

[Brav]

In talking with my tech/friend who helped, we did trac bar adjustent AFTER to se if it would help. So the problem existed before trac bar adjustment.

Edit:. Just raised the front end, and both front wheels (bearings) are loose.....

 

[AgentOrange]

In talking with my tech/friend who helped, we did trac bar adjustent AFTER to se if it would help. So the problem existed before trac bar adjustment.

Edit:. Just raised the front end, and both front wheels (bearings) are loose.....

How are you setting your bearings? Or were they just mistakenly left loose?

 

[Brav]

How are you setting your bearings? Or were they just mistakenly left loose?

Showed my friend FSM and he did it. Said he went a little higher/went by feel..

However I forgot to add that I used TG chromoly nut kit. If that makes a difference

Just tried to quickly tigthen and check it.. did it by feel again, and in nearly instantly gets loose. We cranked on it progressively tighter and tighter, checking after each time. After spinning the wheel a bit, it would gain some play. Then we went hard on it.. probably over 40 lb/ft.. and STILL has some play.

 

[AgentOrange]

Showed my friend FSM and he did it. Said he went a little higher/went by feel..

However I forgot to add that I used TG chromoly nut kit. If that makes a difference

Just tried to quickly tigthen and check it.. did it by feel again, and in nearly instantly gets loose. We cranked on it progressively tighter and tighter, checking after each time. After spinning the wheel a bit, it would gain some play. Then we went hard on it.. probably over 40 lb/ft.. and STILL has some play.

Inner nut I crank on really hard to set the bearings and rotate the tire forward and backwards several times, then I set the inner nut to 35 lb/ft (many do 30 lb/ft and are fine) and rotate the tire more and then double check it's held torque. Then lock washer and outer nut torqued to 45. Maybe the bearings didn't seat just yet?

 

[Brav]

Inner nut I crank on really hard to set the bearings and rotate the tire forward and backwards several times, then I set the inner nut to 35 lb/ft (many do 30 lb/ft and are fine) and rotate the tire more and then double check it's held torque. Then lock washer and outer nut torqued to 45. Maybe the bearings didn't seat just yet?

Possibly. But I only have one nut, as I have the Trail Gear chromoly nut kit

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Possibly. But I only have one nut, as I have the Trail Gear chromoly nut kit

So what keeps the nut tight?

 

[Brav]

So what keeps the nut tight?

The indexed lock ring and set screws

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Nothing personal, but that looks like a solution in search of a problem.
I think I'd go back to stock parts.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Showed my friend FSM and he did it. Said he went a little higher/went by feel..

There's you're problem right there. The FSM method is flawed.
And, doing by feel is a recipe for failure.

Possibly. But I only have one nut, as I have the Trail Gear chromoly nut kit

The trail gear stuff is just fine. No issue with the product. I've used them in two cruisers.

Process is basically the same as @AgentOrange described.
Torque the nut to 35lb, rotate wheel back and forth (I do this with the wheel mounted on the hub). Retorque. Rotate the wheel again, Retorque until your torque wrench is clicking without turning the nut.
Then fit the locking ring and screws

The reason doing by feel is no good, with good quality bearings, and quality grease, you won't feel the difference in rotating the wheel with 10lb of preload, vs 45lb of preload.

 

[Brav]

Thank you. Will do as described on Monday and report back.

 

[Brav]

There's you're problem right there. The FSM method is flawed.
And, doing by feel is a recipe for failure.



The trail gear stuff is just fine. No issue with the product. I've used them in two cruisers.

Process is basically the same as @AgentOrange described.
Torque the nut to 35lb, rotate wheel back and forth (I do this with the wheel mounted on the hub). Retorque. Rotate the wheel again, Retorque until your torque wrench is clicking without turning the nut.
Then fit the locking ring and screws

The reason doing by feel is no good, with good quality bearings, and quality grease, you won't feel the difference in rotating the wheel with 10lb of preload, vs 45lb of preload.

I did exactly as you described for wheel bearings. Good news is they have stayed tight after 60 miles of driving.

Bad news is I still have the pull to left on accel, right on decel. Seems better, but same problem is still there. But less so.

 

[ajax1]

You said you changed the front springs? Did this give you more lift. If your old caster was 1.6 then you went higher your castor is now lower.
Are your spindles worn if so new bearings won’t stay tight, replace the spindles when you do new bearings if you don’t know the condition.

 

[Brav]

You said you changed the front springs? Did this give you more lift. If your old caster was 1.6 then you went higher your castor is now lower.
Are your spindles worn if so new bearings won’t stay tight, replace the spindles when you do new bearings if you don’t know the condition.

If anything, the new springs have settled to be .25 - .5” lower. Spindles looked fine. Bearings are staying tight now after using the high torque method.

 

[roflbox]

Your original description sounds like what the issue was on my LC (albeit my lift is taller at 4")

The previous owner put in a adjustable panhard bar and made it way too long.
I set the adjustable panhard bar to the OEM panhard bar length, and installed the delta panhard bracket, it solved all of my sketchy pulling woes.

Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80/LX450 Rear Panhard Lift Bracket

Fix your rear end wiggle!

www.deltavs.com

 

[Brav]

Your original description sounds like what the issue was on my LC (albeit my lift is taller at 4")

The previous owner put in a adjustable panhard bar and made it way too long.
I set the adjustable panhard bar to the OEM panhard bar length, and installed the delta panhard bracket, it solved all of my sketchy pulling woes.

Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80/LX450 Rear Panhard Lift Bracket

Fix your rear end wiggle!

www.deltavs.com

I have the delta bracket and an adjustable panhard with the axle dead center in rear. Panhard is near parallel to the ground.

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

Both front wheels have proper toe in spec?

 

[Brav]

Both front wheels have proper toe in spec?

Yes. Just had it aligned before this last round of work about 2 months ago. Drove well.

 

[smritte]

I didn't see you mention it but, how's your front arm bushings?
I cant tell you how many vehicles I've had with worn front arms causing pulling just like that. One side badly worn and one side moves out on acceleration and back when braking. I've seen the rear do the same but the front is a bit more exaggerated on front wheel drive and all wheel drive.
test them with a pry bar, not just looking.