Pulling Short Block from Bay

[IronGiant]

Hi, I have tried searching for a write up on this but I can't seem to find one. I am currently working on a '97 with 125k miles. One previous owner who took great care of the cruiser itself (body) but the engine has been a nightmare. My question is, has anyone pulled the short block from their cruiser and if so would you mind providing the steps you used? The FSM describes removing everything (full engine, trans, tcase) but doesn't explain how to get just the short block out. Maybe @Fj80oregon? On the countless post I have read regarding engines, your experience seems to be highly regarded
My rabbit hole has brought me to the point of simply wanting to start fresh with a new engine. Thank you in advance everyone

 

[dallen341]

125k miles? That’s a new engine in the Land Cruiser world.

What is wrong with it?

BTW dozens here including myself have pulled engines from the 80’s.

 

[Mag71k5]

Hi, I have tried searching for a write up on this but I can't seem to find one. I am currently working on a '97 with 125k miles. One previous owner who took great care of the cruiser itself (body) but the engine has been a nightmare. My question is, has anyone pulled the short block from their cruiser and if so would you mind providing the steps you used? The FSM describes removing everything (full engine, trans, tcase) but doesn't explain how to get just the short block out. Maybe @Fj80oregon? On the countless post I have read regarding engines, your experience seems to be highly regarded
My rabbit hole has brought me to the point of simply wanting to start fresh with a new engine. Thank you in advance everyone

A lot of people have reported that pulling the Engine/Trans/And T-Case as one unit is the easiest way, following the FSM steps makes it pretty hard to screw up, It's also the only way I've done it myself. Then you can refresh and clean everything while it's out.

Here's a pretty decent video showing someone removing just the engine if you still want to go that route.



I believe he's a member here on the forums.

 

[mudgudgeon]

No way I would try to pull engine trans and transfer as a unit without an overhead gantry.
Engine alone is heavy enough to make a rolling engine crane sketchy.

The hardest part of pulling just the engine is getting to bell housing bolts via the trans tunnel. 100% doable. Have done this numerous times.
If it's down to a short block, you're better than halfway to getting it out

 

[IronGiant]

125k miles? That’s a new engine in the Land Cruiser world.

What is wrong with it?

BTW dozens here including myself have pulled engines from the 80’s.

That's what I thought when I purchased it as well. I thought I was landing a steal of a deal but the PO blew the head gasket and literally chose to do everything wrong

No way I would try to pull engine trans and transfer as a unit without an overhead gantry.
Engine alone is heavy enough to make a rolling engine crane sketchy.

The hardest part of pulling just the engine is getting to bell housing bolts via the trans tunnel.
If it's down to a short block, you're better than halfway to getting it out

That's sort of what I was thinking and then I could just drop the new short block back in, tighten the trans bolts and then drop the head on. I'm still debating what would be the best course of action

 

[mudgudgeon]

I would pull the short block, do your repairs. Reassemble the full long engine, and drop it in as an assembled unit.

 

[IronGiant]

I would pull the short block, do your repairs. Reassemble the full long engine, and drop it in as an assembled unit.

I was thinking about this but I'm worried about reaching the top trans bolts with the long block assembled. Maybe it wouldn't be too bad.
I'm curious, you mentioned going back in with the long block but I was just curious why you suggest this? Is there a significant advantage of going back in with the long block all at once?

 

[hisandhers80s]

It is immensely easier to assemble the long block while the engine is on a stand versus in the engine.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I was thinking about this but I'm worried about reaching the top trans bolts with the long block assembled. Maybe it wouldn't be too bad.
I'm curious, you mentioned going back in with the long block but I was just curious why you suggest this? Is there a significant advantage of going back in with the long block all at once?

It's far easier to successfully reassemble the head, cams, timing chain, gears etc out of the vehicle than in it. Yes you can do it in the vehicle, but it's worth pulling the engine just for ease of access.
The head is heavy, and lifting it into position in the vehicle is a risky endeavor. High chance of screwing up the new gasket.

I've done both, and preference would be to pull the engine for sure.

To remove the engine, put a jack under the t-case cross member, remove crossmember bolts, lower jack until the engine is about to touch the firewall. This gives you better access to bellhousing bolts. You'll still need a couple of long extension bars and a swivel socket or swivel joint to access the bolts with the ratchet wrench down by the t-case.
Once to bolts are out, jack crossmember back up and put a couple of bolts back in.
To remove the engine, you need to support the weight of the transmission. You can use a jack for this, or if you need to be able to move the vehicle, loop a ratchet strap in a big long figure 8 loop over/around the frame rail, under the front of the transmission, back over/ around the other side frame rail. Tighten ratchet strap enough to support the weight of the transmission.

Remove the radiator. Remove the engine fan so you have enough room to get the engine in and out of place without damaging the radiator.

Here's my engine on the crane ready to go back in

And back in

I've done this solo several times now

 

[TacoLand]

I’ve done both, very much recommend just yoinking the whole thing (engine, trans, t-case). Do the work out of the truck. Put it back in. It’s far less work to remove as a whole, and safer to do the work outside the truck.

 

[Marvelicious]

I haven't done it (yet), but the version I've heard recommended that makes sense to me is to split the t-case from the transmission, and pull the engine and trans as a unit. The transmission is relatively light and doesn't have as much to hang up on, and those bolts are easier to access than the bellhousing bolts.

 

[IronGiant]

I should have clarified I have already removed the head from my engine. This started off as a head gasket replacement and grew into this monstrosity of just replacing the entire engine. So in the truck right now is the short block which was why I was looking for ways to remove the short block on its own

 

[Kernal]

What is wrong with the block?
Got any data (compression, etc) before the head was removed?
Was it running when you bought it?
Had it been sitting parked with coolant in the cylinders?
Coolant in oil, oil in coolant?
Cylinders and deck of the block look good (got photos)??

 

[dallen341]

Consider posting up your location other than “United States”. You may find that a local member will check out what you have going on and offer suggestions.

 

[60 toy ota]

I've pulled the whole driveline once and engine only twice. everything @mudgudgeon said is spot on, especially on accessing the bellhousing bolts. If you have a good hoist and don't mind removing your condenser I'd say pull the whole thing out; If either of those are a problem, or your by yourself for the removal, I'd say pull the engine by itself. It's not that bad and I didn't even have a leveling bar.

 

[Mag71k5]

Some pictures from my 1fz-fe removal.

Two people make it much easier, I got in the engine bay behind the transfercase, and lifted it up a bit to clear the core support member. While my wife pulled the cherry picker.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Hi, I have tried searching for a write up on this but I can't seem to find one. I am currently working on a '97 with 125k miles. One previous owner who took great care of the cruiser itself (body) but the engine has been a nightmare. My question is, has anyone pulled the short block from their cruiser and if so would you mind providing the steps you used? The FSM describes removing everything (full engine, trans, tcase) but doesn't explain how to get just the short block out. Maybe @Fj80oregon? On the countless post I have read regarding engines, your experience seems to be highly regarded
My rabbit hole has brought me to the point of simply wanting to start fresh with a new engine. Thank you in advance everyone

Just got back in cell service, pull the whole assemble and follow the FSM believe me it’s easier and then you know it’s done right.
I have pulled multiple drivetrains with a 2 ton engine hoist just use common sense and go slow.

 

[Scrapedknuckles]

Pull the whole assembly! It's so much easier. I did this by myself. Remove everything in front of the engine. Radiator, AC radiator, hood crossmember. Take the front tires off and lower the truck as much as you can. It may seem scary (and it is) but take your time and it comes right out.