PS Pump Leaky? Brown? (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys,
I was doing a basic inspection of the cruiser today. Found that I had low oil, dipstick was at the bottom of the crosshatching, top of the "L". Oil was changed 7-1-19 and 3k miles ago. Is this cause for concern? I know there's something verrryy slowly leaking around the oil pan but never had more than a few drops on my driveway over 10 months.

Next, my power steering dipstick was totally dry. Looked in there and the fluid was nowhere near clear, it was milkshake brown. I'd been noticing leaking around it for a few months. It already had old fluid stuck on the reservoir and pump but it was obvious when there was dark fluid on top of my A/C compressor a few months after a fresh compressor was put in. Looked it up, says it's brown because seals or other rubber components have dissolved into the fluid? Should I order a seal kit for the pump/reservoir, replace the seals, and flush the system? The pump works fine, I have great power steering and it's a reman that was put in 3/25/02 @ 141,679 miles, along with a gearbox. Pressure hose replaced and PS flush at 3/29/04 @ 172,271. Last service was "power steering fluid replaced" 7/31/10 @ 201,905. It was put in storage at that time and I'm guessing stuff dried up in the pump and reservoir. There's also been some very jackass engineering on the power steering hose, with it wrapped around the pump and sitting dangerously close to a belt. so I'll have to figure out how to fix that. See attached pictures.
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Thanks in advance!!!!!!
 
I was doing a basic inspection of the cruiser today. Found that I had low oil, dipstick was at the bottom of the crosshatching, top of the "L". Oil was changed 7-1-19 and 3k miles ago. Is this cause for concern? I know there's something verrryy slowly leaking around the oil pan but never had more than a few drops on my driveway over 10 months.

Yes, I would be concerned that you've waited 10 months to check the oil level.

Did you change the oil yourself or at least check the level at that time to make sure the level was at the top of the crosshatching?
 
Yes, I would be concerned that you've waited 10 months to check the oil level.

Did you change the oil yourself or at least check the level at that time to make sure the level was at the top of the crosshatching?
Done by a service place, didn't check dipstick then. Entirely possible it wasn't totally filled by them. 10 months because it's full synthetic Mobil1 with Marvel Mystery. I was going to just do 6 months but it escaped me.
 
You really need to establish the oil usage as right now you are only guessing. You can add oil now but seeing that it's getting close to a year since the last change I would go ahead and do a full change with a new filter now. Synthetic allows for longer mileage intervals but any oil should be changed once per year irregardless of mileage. Mobil1 is a quality oil and as such doesn't need Marvel Mystery added. With a high mileage engine a 10W-30 viscosity would be suggested. Check the oil level after running to get oil into the filter and check the oil every couple of fill-ups.
 
You really need to establish the oil usage as right now you are only guessing. You can add oil now but seeing that it's getting close to a year since the last change I would go ahead and do a full change with a new filter now. Synthetic allows for longer mileage intervals but any oil should be changed once per year irregardless of mileage. Mobil1 is a quality oil and as such doesn't need Marvel Mystery added. With a high mileage engine a 10W-30 viscosity would be suggested. Check the oil level after running to get oil into the filter and check the oil every couple of fill-ups.
Will do an oil change. Mobil1 10W30. No MMO. Any ideas on the PS?
 
I'm not familiar with the 3FE power steering pump, but yes the system needs to be flushed. Search for some threads on rebuilding or replacement using a remanufactured pump.
 
If the pump is not leaking and there are no other leaks in the power steering system, then drain the existing brown crap and refill with fresh ATF. Drive for a few days and do it again. ATF should be a bright red color.
After a few more days, check the condition of the fluid.
The fact that you have good steering tells you that the pump is good.

You're driving a 30 year old truck. It's going to need to be looked after.

Also, the high pressure hose is mounted incorrectly. It should follow the low pressure hose. Whoever put this together wasn't paying attention.

And please stop with the snake oil additives. It's a tractor motor.
 
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If the pump is not leaking and there are no other leaks in the power steering system, then drain the existing brown crap and refill with fresh ATF. Drive for a few days and do it again. ATF should be a bright red color.
After a few more days, check the condition of the fluid.
The fact that you have good steering tells you that the pump is good.

You're driving a 30 year old truck. It's going to need to be looked after.

Also, the high pressure hose is mounted incorrectly. It should follow the low pressure hose. Whoever put this together wasn't paying attention.

And please stop with the snake oil additives. It's a tractor motor.
I need to figure out if I really have a leak and where it's coming from. I was thinking of degreasing the pump and reservoir and areas around it, flushing the fluid, adding new fluid with a UV dye, and then checking for leaks. If there are leaks, I assume I will have to reseal it. What do you think?

And yes, I don't have another 3FE to look at how the high pressure should be ran. I'm trying to figure out how the hell whoever worked on it managed this routing.
 
You won't need any kind of additive to find a PS leak. They're pretty obvious on thier own.
 
I need to figure out if I really have a leak and where it's coming from. I was thinking of degreasing the pump and reservoir and areas around it, flushing the fluid, adding new fluid with a UV dye, and then checking for leaks. If there are leaks, I assume I will have to reseal it. What do you think?

And yes, I don't have another 3FE to look at how the high pressure should be ran. I'm trying to figure out how the hell whoever worked on it managed this routing.
You don't need to "flush" the fluid. Just drain out the old and put in the new. You can remove the rear most hard fitting on the steering box and allow the fluid to drain out. It will make a mess, so a large catch pan is a good idea.
Fill with new, start the engine for a second to allow the pump to fill the system. Keep the cap on when you start the engine to avoid a mess.
Shut off the engine and check level. Repeat as need until the level is correct. Drive around for a bit, turn this way and that, recheck level.
When the fluid is cool, repeat the drain and refill process.

Someone with a 3FE handy needs to take a picture of the OEM PS lines. I don't really have one handy, but the high and low pressure lines run together down the right side of the engine bay to the right of the AC compressor and forward towards the radiator.
 
You don't need to "flush" the fluid. Just drain out the old and put in the new. You can remove the rear most hard fitting on the steering box and allow the fluid to drain out. It will make a mess, so a large catch pan is a good idea.
Fill with new, start the engine for a second to allow the pump to fill the system. Keep the cap on when you start the engine to avoid a mess.
Shut off the engine and check level. Repeat as need until the level is correct. Drive around for a bit, turn this way and that, recheck level.
When the fluid is cool, repeat the drain and refill process.
Would you recommend this method over the one in the FSM or this video?
 
Would you recommend this method over the one in the FSM or this video?
I did it the same way as the video, I had the boy, (my son) run the steering wheel while I maintained fluid levels in the funnel and catch jug.
Worked very well and super easy.
 
Would you recommend this method over the one in the FSM or this video?
Do whatever makes you comfortable.
Your truck has some questionable maintenance history. Be careful with the PS lines. They are no longer available from Toyota.

I found a decent drawing of the lines. Notice that the high and low pressure lines run together to the cooler.

PS Lines.JPG
 
Do whatever makes you comfortable.
Your truck has some questionable maintenance history. Be careful with the PS lines. They are no longer available from Toyota.

I found a decent drawing of the lines. Notice that the high and low pressure lines run together to the cooler.

View attachment 2305286
Thanks so much man. I actually have all the service records on it. Couple mechanics that are no longer in business have worked on it...
 

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