does sound head gasket or valve seat. how far out was your valve set on offending pots? get it running with radiator cap off and you should find plenty of bubbles in the coolant if its head gasket. i wouldnt bother with oil change straight up; get this motor warm then try another comp test. bit of engine heat and your mm oil may help if the issue is a couple stuck rings from sitting around. drop the oil when you are resolved to either pull the head or not.
PROPER INTRODUCTION
- Thread starter jestlurnin
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Great advice. If I have time I'm gonna knock this out tomorrow.
48 hrs long enough to let the MMO sit in the cylinders?
48 hrs long enough to let the MMO sit in the cylinders?
- Thread starter
- #24
Land pimp: window hold down holes are there just not the hardware. In the long list of things to purchase continues...
Took some more detailed pictures of the rear sill/tailgate hinges and bed.
It was obviously rear ended or was backed into something at a decent speed. Not sure if the rear sill has been replaced, but to my uneducated eye it looks original. Just not in good shape. I took a wire wheel to everything to remove flaky rust and chipped paint as well as body filler. I think the bed is definitely salvageable. Anyone think otherwise?
Took some more detailed pictures of the rear sill/tailgate hinges and bed.
It was obviously rear ended or was backed into something at a decent speed. Not sure if the rear sill has been replaced, but to my uneducated eye it looks original. Just not in good shape. I took a wire wheel to everything to remove flaky rust and chipped paint as well as body filler. I think the bed is definitely salvageable. Anyone think otherwise?
- Thread starter
- #25
Forgot to add the tail light lenses are Toyota, not sure if they are original to the truck but definitely TEQ.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #26
Another update regarding ZERO compression reading in cylinders 1 & 2.
Put the MMO in cylinder 1 and 2. Turned the engine through an entire cycle at the 48 hour mark then fired it up 48 hours later and let the engine heat up to operating temp for about 25 minutes. Initially was a bit worried as I was able to put the ENTIRE bottle in 2 cylinders. I have no concept of how large these cylinder are but it seems as if I shouldn't have been able to put the ENTIRE bottle in just 2 cylinders. Makes me wonder, maybe the rings are no longer existent and the MMO was just ruining down the cylinder walls and past the pistons.
Regardless I think I need to pull the head to assess everything. I've never done this before and will need my hand held by MUD members!!
This leads to my last question of the day. Can one get away with replacing piston rings and replacing head gasket without having the head machined? What other kind of maintenance should I perform with the head off?
Put the MMO in cylinder 1 and 2. Turned the engine through an entire cycle at the 48 hour mark then fired it up 48 hours later and let the engine heat up to operating temp for about 25 minutes. Initially was a bit worried as I was able to put the ENTIRE bottle in 2 cylinders. I have no concept of how large these cylinder are but it seems as if I shouldn't have been able to put the ENTIRE bottle in just 2 cylinders. Makes me wonder, maybe the rings are no longer existent and the MMO was just ruining down the cylinder walls and past the pistons.
Regardless I think I need to pull the head to assess everything. I've never done this before and will need my hand held by MUD members!!
This leads to my last question of the day. Can one get away with replacing piston rings and replacing head gasket without having the head machined? What other kind of maintenance should I perform with the head off?
- Thread starter
- #27
Took this one today as well. Couldn't resist a picture of my 78' 40 next to my new 75' 45.
And a glimpse of my old multi colored 60 that I've been steeling parts off of for 2 years to fix my DD 87' 60
And a glimpse of my old multi colored 60 that I've been steeling parts off of for 2 years to fix my DD 87' 60
- Thread starter
- #28
Well ladies and germs I believe I may know why I had almost zero compression in cylinders 1 & 2. See below.
Looks like the head gasket failed between 1 & 2.
Can anyone give me a list of tests to do while I have the engine this far apart?
Can folks follow that up with things to replace in regards to the internal engine components while I have it this far apart? I'm a complete rookie when it comes to fixing the engines in the rigs.
Any reason to replace lifters, springs, etc etc? Help! no clue what I'm doing at this point!
Looks like the head gasket failed between 1 & 2.
Can anyone give me a list of tests to do while I have the engine this far apart?
Can folks follow that up with things to replace in regards to the internal engine components while I have it this far apart? I'm a complete rookie when it comes to fixing the engines in the rigs.
Any reason to replace lifters, springs, etc etc? Help! no clue what I'm doing at this point!
good to see you are nutting this out. these are nice simple old engines for the novice mechanic.
what to do? depends on your budget and motivation really. you can throw money at these things forever if you wish (people do) but myself i enjoy not following this path; and learning as i go.
i would check the head for warpage if you dont know how hot this engine has been. (or just dont bother). a shop can do this but a decent straight edge and couple feeler gauges are good enough i reckon. cast heads are very forgiving; i hate alloy heads. its prob ok with the head gas. damage as it is up one end. rings? good time to do them but wouldnt bother myself; your other 4 readings are sound enough and even enough for me. valve springs etc. whatever. sure yours are fine for what it is. not building a race motor here!
it is a good time to give the valves a bit of a lap. nice diy project. myself i have been lazy and ignored this in the past. thats pretty lazy tho.
ask questions and make sure you got a good shop manual. and you should be back on the road for the price of a head gasket and a bit of valve paste.
good luck and keep us posted.
what to do? depends on your budget and motivation really. you can throw money at these things forever if you wish (people do) but myself i enjoy not following this path; and learning as i go.
i would check the head for warpage if you dont know how hot this engine has been. (or just dont bother). a shop can do this but a decent straight edge and couple feeler gauges are good enough i reckon. cast heads are very forgiving; i hate alloy heads. its prob ok with the head gas. damage as it is up one end. rings? good time to do them but wouldnt bother myself; your other 4 readings are sound enough and even enough for me. valve springs etc. whatever. sure yours are fine for what it is. not building a race motor here!
it is a good time to give the valves a bit of a lap. nice diy project. myself i have been lazy and ignored this in the past. thats pretty lazy tho.
ask questions and make sure you got a good shop manual. and you should be back on the road for the price of a head gasket and a bit of valve paste.
good luck and keep us posted.
- Thread starter
- #30
UPDATES!!
CHRISTMAS IS MARCH!!
Took delivery today of awl-TEQ's tailgate and headache rack!!
These things are beautiful! On goes the stockpiling of parts for the eventual rebuild!!
Also: dropped the head off at a machine shop I think I can trust. My analness got the better off me and instead of just slapping it back in with an OEM head gasket I decided to have it hot tanked, magnufluxed, and measures to make sure it was within tolerance.....
Said he'd have it ready by Monday. Guess I need to get on an OEM head gasket.
CHRISTMAS IS MARCH!!
Took delivery today of awl-TEQ's tailgate and headache rack!!
These things are beautiful! On goes the stockpiling of parts for the eventual rebuild!!
Also: dropped the head off at a machine shop I think I can trust. My analness got the better off me and instead of just slapping it back in with an OEM head gasket I decided to have it hot tanked, magnufluxed, and measures to make sure it was within tolerance.....
Said he'd have it ready by Monday. Guess I need to get on an OEM head gasket.
- Thread starter
- #31
Update time. Got the head back from the machine shop. Bad news, cracks in the valve seats (not sure I'm using the correct terminology there)
I'm looking for a new head currently unless someone thinks I should just run this one for the time being.
Thoughts?
I'm looking for a new head currently unless someone thinks I should just run this one for the time being.
Thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #32
Well it looks like I'll be getting a new head and not trying to run a cracked one with fingers crossed.
Got some good info from Spikestrip over in the 40 section. Since 45's from NZ (and other parts of the world) don't have the smog crap we got here in the US I'll need to block off the air rail ports on the replacement block I get. He also directed me to a thread that JimC chimed in on in regards to the casting # that should be on the replacement head in order to get the best performance out of the set up.
So the search begins!!
Got some good info from Spikestrip over in the 40 section. Since 45's from NZ (and other parts of the world) don't have the smog crap we got here in the US I'll need to block off the air rail ports on the replacement block I get. He also directed me to a thread that JimC chimed in on in regards to the casting # that should be on the replacement head in order to get the best performance out of the set up.
So the search begins!!
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Threads
- 89
- Messages
- 3,680
- Location
- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
- Website
- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
I'm not usually one to be so outspoken on a forum, but west aussie took his time to offer some sound advice and you didn't even acknowledge it. Yet you want more help and support? Rewind, slow down, keep your all posts to one thread and you'll get all the help you'll ever need. It's a two way street.
- Thread starter
- #34
Good point cult 45. I should have thanked west aussie for his advice that was poor form on my part.
West aussie thanks for the advice. When it came down to it though I just had to know if I was going to be wasting more money in the long run by not having the head magged. The cost of an OEM head gasket new intake/exhaust gasket, water pump gasket, thermostat gaskets, etc, etc. if I had to tear it down again a week after I put it back together because I didn't do my due diligence it would have been a huge hit financially.
I think in about post 21 aussie made a recommendation that I followed through with to in post 26 which led me to taking the head off. I should have thanked him in that post as well. The last post he put up was before I finally bit the bullet and took the head to a machine shop to be magged which is when the cracks were found. Which in my mind changed everything.
I think we'd all agree that the 40 section gets a bit more traffic so if one wants to post a specific technical question that is say relevant to all 2F's (which many of us have in our rigs) in a section that is most likely to get more responses and bring that info back to the 45 section we will all benefit. No? I see the point of these threads as to help others when they are in similar situations as us as well as help all of us that are currently trying to solve problems. Correct? The point of this entire site is to keep theses beasts on the road so if one is staying true to both keeping all cruisers on the road and using the 45 section to specifically keep 45's on the road then I think we are all pulling our weight and we all win.
Thanks for pointing out that I need to mind my manners cult.....now back to why people read these threads....keeping our cruisers running
West aussie thanks for the advice. When it came down to it though I just had to know if I was going to be wasting more money in the long run by not having the head magged. The cost of an OEM head gasket new intake/exhaust gasket, water pump gasket, thermostat gaskets, etc, etc. if I had to tear it down again a week after I put it back together because I didn't do my due diligence it would have been a huge hit financially.
I think in about post 21 aussie made a recommendation that I followed through with to in post 26 which led me to taking the head off. I should have thanked him in that post as well. The last post he put up was before I finally bit the bullet and took the head to a machine shop to be magged which is when the cracks were found. Which in my mind changed everything.
I think we'd all agree that the 40 section gets a bit more traffic so if one wants to post a specific technical question that is say relevant to all 2F's (which many of us have in our rigs) in a section that is most likely to get more responses and bring that info back to the 45 section we will all benefit. No? I see the point of these threads as to help others when they are in similar situations as us as well as help all of us that are currently trying to solve problems. Correct? The point of this entire site is to keep theses beasts on the road so if one is staying true to both keeping all cruisers on the road and using the 45 section to specifically keep 45's on the road then I think we are all pulling our weight and we all win.
Thanks for pointing out that I need to mind my manners cult.....now back to why people read these threads....keeping our cruisers running
Great post! 2F engines crossover several platforms, and I find better discussion and info in the 40s forum, when I'm usually in the 60s forum.... But the 'Strayan / NZ input is valuable when one thinks of desmog and simple fixit direction.
hey hey no stress! chill out cult old man we're all friends here on mud in all its different sections! cripes i would hate to be taken to task for all the advice i didnt acknowledge or pics i promised to post that then slipped my mind.
jestlurnin - my 2 cents worth for all the good it was would prob have set you up to fail anyway. (did throw in that i can be a bit rough as a disclaimer though haha).
anyways keep plugging away and keep us informed. its all good!
jestlurnin - my 2 cents worth for all the good it was would prob have set you up to fail anyway. (did throw in that i can be a bit rough as a disclaimer though haha).
anyways keep plugging away and keep us informed. its all good!
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Threads
- 89
- Messages
- 3,680
- Location
- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
- Website
- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
west - I am chilled. No malice. Just a reminder of exactly that: we're all friends here.
jest - no hard feelings mate. I just see this all the time and I finally decided to pull someone up on it. Glad to see you got the info you were after. I'll be back periodically to see if I can help. Oh and even though all 45's pretty much look the same there's some that just look right. Yours is one of them.
jest - no hard feelings mate. I just see this all the time and I finally decided to pull someone up on it. Glad to see you got the info you were after. I'll be back periodically to see if I can help. Oh and even though all 45's pretty much look the same there's some that just look right. Yours is one of them.
- Thread starter
- #38
We are all on the same team!! Onward and upward. Sometimes my streams of consciousness get going and I answer my own multitude of questions I ask!!
Back to tech.......Ordered a "closed head" cylinder head from Torfab up in Washington. Closed cylinder head because I have flat top pistons (still not sure if they are OEM and won't till I tear into the block). Used all the info that I gathered from everyone and decided on a late model head. I've heard that the later heads are more prone to cracking but the price was right so on we go. Magged, pressure tested and machined, no valve job but I figured if it holds pressure we should be good. Happy as a pig in s#%t after just ordering it. Can't wait to get it not sure when delivery will be. Stay tuned.
Back to tech.......Ordered a "closed head" cylinder head from Torfab up in Washington. Closed cylinder head because I have flat top pistons (still not sure if they are OEM and won't till I tear into the block). Used all the info that I gathered from everyone and decided on a late model head. I've heard that the later heads are more prone to cracking but the price was right so on we go. Magged, pressure tested and machined, no valve job but I figured if it holds pressure we should be good. Happy as a pig in s#%t after just ordering it. Can't wait to get it not sure when delivery will be. Stay tuned.
- Thread starter
- #39
Well since I'm sitting at the DMV waiting for a VIN inspection I thought I'd take this time to update where I've gotten the rig to.
Been posting in the 40 section regarding the head gasket/head replacement so now I'll throw everything up here to stay true to the 45 section and spare everyone the boring details!
I sourced 100% of my parts from Onur and his new business Land Cruiser Parts & Consulting LLC except for the cylinder head wich came from Torfab in WA.
New (to me) cylinder head, magnufluxed, cleaned, and pressure tested
View attachment 1092420
I had all the head bolts and various other hardware that goes on or through the head cleaned up by my favorite machine shop. I was only concerned about the threads but they polished everything up and made it look purdy!
New OEM head gasket
View attachment 1092421
New water pump to block gasket, discover the gasket that goes here
View attachment 1092422
In between the water pump housing and back plate is NLA so I used some Toyota FIPG.
New thermostat housing to block gasket, new thermostat, new thermostat gaskets and new thermostat housing bolts. No pictures of these.
New studs and bolts that go from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust down pipe.
Remflex exhaust/intake manifold. Didn't do a darn thing to the face of the exhaust/intake manifold except clean off the old gasket and so far (about 200 miles) I've got zero exhaust leaks coming from the manifold.
New valve cover gasket.
New aftermarket coil (sourced this locally) as the OEM is NLA as far as I know.
Finagled a fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb but will eventually either create my own or find a used one.
I've re-torqued the head bolts 2 times in 200 miles and expect to do it again at 500 miles as well.
Made sure the plugs were gapped correctly, adjusted the timing to 7 BTDC, and she fired right up!! Blowing smoke like a SOB but who cares she's running!! I'll try and diagnose the smoke at a later time. Just gonna drive her for a bit and enjoy it.
Been posting in the 40 section regarding the head gasket/head replacement so now I'll throw everything up here to stay true to the 45 section and spare everyone the boring details!
I sourced 100% of my parts from Onur and his new business Land Cruiser Parts & Consulting LLC except for the cylinder head wich came from Torfab in WA.
New (to me) cylinder head, magnufluxed, cleaned, and pressure tested
View attachment 1092420
I had all the head bolts and various other hardware that goes on or through the head cleaned up by my favorite machine shop. I was only concerned about the threads but they polished everything up and made it look purdy!
New OEM head gasket
View attachment 1092421
New water pump to block gasket, discover the gasket that goes here
View attachment 1092422
In between the water pump housing and back plate is NLA so I used some Toyota FIPG.
New thermostat housing to block gasket, new thermostat, new thermostat gaskets and new thermostat housing bolts. No pictures of these.
New studs and bolts that go from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust down pipe.
Remflex exhaust/intake manifold. Didn't do a darn thing to the face of the exhaust/intake manifold except clean off the old gasket and so far (about 200 miles) I've got zero exhaust leaks coming from the manifold.
New valve cover gasket.
New aftermarket coil (sourced this locally) as the OEM is NLA as far as I know.
Finagled a fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb but will eventually either create my own or find a used one.
I've re-torqued the head bolts 2 times in 200 miles and expect to do it again at 500 miles as well.
Made sure the plugs were gapped correctly, adjusted the timing to 7 BTDC, and she fired right up!! Blowing smoke like a SOB but who cares she's running!! I'll try and diagnose the smoke at a later time. Just gonna drive her for a bit and enjoy it.
- Thread starter
- #40
Removed the home made headache rack. Looks like a totally different rig!!
