Pre 03 Factory NAV to Double Din, Climate Knobs Conversion? (1 Viewer)

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Hey BillZ260

I'm on a different computer on an extremely slow connection (I'm traveling) so I don't have my documentation handy. You might want to search for my thread and I made a pin-to-pin spreadsheet that simplifies this conversion process.

Edit: I found the PDF I made from my Google Drive. I'm attempting to upload it. I hope you are able to download it. I am linking the folder I used which will help you understand better, with pictures of the bezels showing which connector / pigtail is which.
Thank you for providing this info. I realize the non-nav pin is just for the climate control. Did you use a Metra adapter to install your new head unit? How long did this repair take you? Did you remove the CD magazine in the center console? I saw your old thread you had posted but the pictures were all a Red X and I could not see them. The link you provided looks great. Do you retain all factory functions? How has it held up?
 
This is awesome, thanks for the details. Can't look at your folder here at work, will check it out at home.
 
Thank you for providing this info. I realize the non-nav pin is just for the climate control. Did you use a Metra adapter to install your new head unit? How long did this repair take you? Did you remove the CD magazine in the center console? I saw your old thread you had posted but the pictures were all a Red X and I could not see them. The link you provided looks great. Do you retain all factory functions? How has it held up?

My bezel came with the harness pigtails, so I connected those wires to my existing dash harness. I also wired up an ISO harness to directly plug in a head unit. Grafting the pigtails to the original harness took 4 hours because I was attempting to document everything as I went along. I had a decent wire stripper and I also used heat shrink butt connectors, which helped me make connections very efficiently. I removed the CD changer in the center console. Now it's an extra hidden compartment for a Glock.

All factory functions are retained and accessible via the non-nav bezel. I went with an auto climate control bezel and it works great. It has to, because it has hit over 100*F here several days in a row! It actually hit an indicated 105*F today.
 
Ok sounds great. I spent some time reviewing my FSM last night and I now have the confidence to get this done. It looks like many of the wires will be matching the same color wire from factory plug to bezel pigtail. I am going to order all new speakers and a HU from Crutchfield. I will use the factory amp for now. I have a good set of Klein crimpers and strippers. I have found several donors on Ebay but I think I will need to call them to make sure they add the pigtails. Those heat shrink connectors look great. Was one pack enough?
 
Great question about the connectors, the answer was no ... I needed two packs because I messed several up along the way.

After the new bezel is wired up and the new headunit needs to be physically bolt to the dash frame and also be flush with the bezel's face. For that I got a $40 plastic kit on eBay. If I can find my previous purchase I'll link it.
 
Great question about the connectors, the answer was no ... I needed two packs because I messed several up along the way.

After the new bezel is wired up and the new headunit needs to be physically bolt to the dash frame and also be flush with the bezel's face. For that I got a $40 plastic kit on eBay. If I can find my previous purchase I'll link it.
I am using Crutchfields site and it shows no dash kit needed for a few of the head units I have selected. Is there something specific about your head unit?
 
Yes, the factory bezel has a curve which doesn't fully cover the DIN cavity if a headunit with a flat face is installed.

I bought an all plastic version of this for $49, not $120 - Double Din Dash Radio Kit w/ Brackets for Lexus LX LX470 & Toyota Landcruiser | eBay

This one seems to only be the face plate without the side brackets - Double Din Dash Trim Kit for Lexus LX-470 Toyota LC-100 Radio DVD Fascia Install | eBay

This one is priced similarly to mine at $54, but no side brackets are pictured so check with the seller - 1998 - 2002 Lexus LX470 Black 6.1'' Double Din Radio Dash Installation Kit | eBay

I hope this helps.
 
Yes, the factory bezel has a curve which doesn't fully cover the DIN cavity if a headunit with a flat face is installed.

I bought an all plastic version of this for $49, not $120 - Double Din Dash Radio Kit w/ Brackets for Lexus LX LX470 & Toyota Landcruiser | eBay

This one seems to only be the face plate without the side brackets - Double Din Dash Trim Kit for Lexus LX-470 Toyota LC-100 Radio DVD Fascia Install | eBay

This one is priced similarly to mine at $54, but no side brackets are pictured so check with the seller - 1998 - 2002 Lexus LX470 Black 6.1'' Double Din Radio Dash Installation Kit | eBay

I hope this helps.
This is very helpful thank you. Instead of splicing them did you try to "open" the terminal blocks using the "special tool" described in the FSM and inserting the wires into the new plugs on the bezel? It looks like red jet may have tried that and had some issues. I had considered purchasing the C plugs you listed a few pages back and attempting to pull wires from the old terminal block and inserting into the new block for a cleaner install.
 
This is very helpful thank you. Instead of splicing them did you try to "open" the terminal blocks using the "special tool" described in the FSM and inserting the wires into the new plugs on the bezel? It looks like red jet may have tried that and had some issues. I had considered purchasing the C plugs you listed a few pages back and attempting to pull wires from the old terminal block and inserting into the new block for a cleaner install.

I'm all for doing that clean job, but I didn't have the appropriate tool to properly repin. What are they, Amphenol terminals or something? I wish I had that ability but I just had to clip and resolder.
 
I am not sure what the proper name for the Toyota terminal blocks are but the FSM shows how you can open the blocks and remove the wires using a "special tool" they specify how to make. It looks fairly difficult and some of the Toyota literature recommends trashing the housing once you open the terminals up but if I bought new plugs from Toyota that wouldn't be an issue.
IMG_2660.JPG

IMG_2661.JPG

I am now debating about bypassing the factory amp and installing 4 new 4 ohm door speakers. They are blown and I need to change them and now would be the good time. I don't really need bass and I do not crank up the music too loud so I guess I will look for the cheapest option. My other option is buy 2 ohm speakers at a premium price and use the existing factory amp.
 
Im planning on going all new - amp and speakers if I do this.
 
Is there anyone who is knowledgable on connectors? I have spent the day on google, allied, mouser and other electronic suppliers looking for the connectors. I have sourced a 3 dial controller and they are going to leave the pigtails on. I would really like to do this without cutting wires. There are 5 connectors coming out of the navigation system that will be used to convert the vehicle to non-nav. They are Toyota Part #s
90980-11469
90980-11391
90980-11392
90980-11913
90980-11350
I need to find a mating connector for all of these. If I can get these mating connectors I can wire the pigtail to them and plug into the vehicle. I think I have found the following connectors
90980-11469 looks like it may mate with 90980-11504. This is a Toyota part. I am going to order the part and see
90980-11391 Converts to TE part number #917981-1 and it shows a mate of 178764. This is a terminal block similar but not identical to what we need.
90980-11392 Converts to TE part number 917989-1 and it shows the same 178764 mate. Here is a photo of this block. It is remarkably similar to the back of the donor and the nav ac amp.
Mate that is shown for plugs won't work:
Unknown.jpg

Here is what the back of my ac amplifier/ nav unit looks like
IMG_2666.JPG


I have no leads on the other 2. In its' simplest form this conversion is taking 5 connectors and wiring into 4. There are an additional 6 connectors on the vehicle but the 4 for the MFD will be left abandoned in the dash, 1 going to the DVD player will be abandoned and the last one will be used for our new stereo install by using a Metra harness. This could be done without cutting vehicle wires if I can source matching connectors. Red jet reported that a repining is not completely possible because some of the connectors have wider terminals and there is some issue with not quite enough wire to easily access. I have considered pulling the mating sections from my current nav unit but the mating connectors are soldered into the system so I do not think I can use a crimp terminal to attach to them. I have tried some plug dealer websites and sent some emails but nothing. Anyone who can provide any information would be great. I spent an hour or so with my FSM and the pin out guide. I had to add the power antenna wires to the diagram but the rest matched up to my 2002 FSM. This looks like a straight forward swap I just want to do it by tapping into the existing Toyota connectors if possible. Gonna spend a few more days on google while I am waiting the arrival of the donor controller. Thanks
 
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Tx, if you buy stuff from Japan for this, let me know. I've not jumped into this as deep yet, but it's on the list. Holler if I can help out.
 
I'm getting dizzy just looking at the EWD docs... I found this and sort of follow it, he explains how to find the mating plugs, granted its for a Tacoma but thought it might help.

Repair a Toyota Wire Harness - TTORA Forum
 
I'm getting dizzy just looking at the EWD docs... I found this and sort of follow it, he explains how to find the mating plugs, granted its for a Tacoma but thought it might help.

Repair a Toyota Wire Harness - TTORA Forum
Thanks Bill. I have spent a ton of time translating foreign pages and reading as much as I can. I think I can match all but 1 plug right now. The plug I am still trying to match is labeled C24 on the FSM and it is a 13 pin plug. Toyota part # is 90980-11350. If I do it without this one and buy the other mating connections I will only have to solder 4 wires. This is better than 60 but not the plug and play I was hoping for. I did order some plugs from Toyota that will be here Thursday. Once they arrive I will find out if they are shipped with terminals or not. My climate control unit won't be here for a few days so I am not in a huge rush but I really would like to be able to source these parts. I may have an electrical company build the harness if I can source the parts. We will see what that would run me if I can get everything together.
 
The parts guy at Camelback Toyota was a big help and offered to call Toyota yesterday for some additional assistance. He got back to me today and told me they do not have any information on any matching connectors for the numbers I gave them. I contacted a few other Toyota and wiring gurus I found through surfing Google. It now looks like there is not a source for connectors to do this without cutting wires. I will list the part numbers I need a match for and the possible matches here in case anyone else wants to work this up some more later.

90980-11469- I believe this to have a Toyota Part# match of 90980-11504. Toyota says that part is discontinued.
90980-11391- I believe this part is actually a TE Part #917981-1 which shows a match of TE 174514
90980-11392- I believe this part is actually a TE Part#917989-1 which shows a match of TE 174515
90980-11913- I believe this to have a Toyota Part# match of 90980-11912
90980-11350- I cannot find a match to this part at all.

I wanted to do this conversion because my speakers are blown and I didn't want to spend the big bucks for the 2 ohm speakers. Now I ended up with this project on my plate. My head unit and speakers will be here Friday and my bezel is scheduled to be here Monday. I plan on doing the change out on the 4th. I will be cutting all of the wires after labeling them and using the connectors that @primeral linked.
 
I have completed this project. I posted the details on primeral's other thread but I wanted to close this one out with the results. Here is a picture of the 5 connectors coming out of the dash and here is a picture of the new connectors that plug into the back of the new 3 knob. The new connectors are still in the bag. For my conversion it was much easier to use the pigtails off the donor 3 knob connector. Any plug and play harness will need to match the 5 vehicle plugs to the 4 donor 3 knob plugs. This will involve finding a match to these 5 male plugs and wiring into the 4 new plugs. If anyone really wants to try to build a harness I will send you these plugs for the shipping costs and you can see if you are able to find a match. If you just want to do the conversion it is much easier to just buy the pigtails of the donor controller. I spent a ton of time attempting to match these and I have determined they cannot be found. There is no markings on any of the plugs to help find a match. I have listed some of the possible part numbers above.
IMG_2736.JPG
Before
IMG_2674.JPG

After
IMG_2719.JPG
 
I have completed this project. I posted the details on primeral's other thread but I wanted to close this one out with the results. Here is a picture of the 5 connectors coming out of the dash and here is a picture of the new connectors that plug into the back of the new 3 knob. The new connectors are still in the bag. For my conversion it was much easier to use the pigtails off the donor 3 knob connector. Any plug and play harness will need to match the 5 vehicle plugs to the 4 donor 3 knob plugs. This will involve finding a match to these 5 male plugs and wiring into the 4 new plugs. If anyone really wants to try to build a harness I will send you these plugs for the shipping costs and you can see if you are able to find a match. If you just want to do the conversion it is much easier to just buy the pigtails of the donor controller. I spent a ton of time attempting to match these and I have determined they cannot be found. There is no markings on any of the plugs to help find a match. I have listed some of the possible part numbers above.View attachment 1493907Before
View attachment 1493909
After
View attachment 1493908
You are using the same JVC head unit as I am. In the daylight, the thing is unreadable. I've messed with every setting, thinking about dumping it and getting something else. Have you found anything that helps with the glare?
 

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