Power Steering Box adjustment?

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You can see it in the second picture.
I was afraid to pull on those mud guards because I am known to break all of them in the process.
I tried to fit a wrench in there going in from the radiator, I barely got to it, but I also think it's not a 17mm size nut. Maybe 16mm or smaller.

Reading the repair manual I found out that a 40mm free play is normal. I had my son play with the steering wheel while I watched the shaft and the linkage up front and I am not positive I need to adjust the box. The linkage moves while the steering wheel is being turned as in the perceived free play.
Maybe it is normal and I just don't know what normal is on TLC, but comparing it to other cars it's a little more than what I would like it.
17mm

Mine was way not normal, and I've replaced bushings, checked/adjusted bearings, bla bla bla... So I checked how much it "could" adjust, it was about 1 1/2 turns. I did 1/2 turn for starters. And you MUST have that screw set wherever it is when you're retightening that nut. it can move around.
 
no, sorry, I just loosened it up, turned the inner dial with a screwdriver to take up the slack that was there and retightened, takes like 1 min.
It took me ten minutes.

:flipoff2:
 
I did try the 17mm and it seemed very loose. I'll try again. I don't have a 15 or 16mm wrench to try. It's highly unlikely I have a different size, than whatever the other have. Maybe I couldn't reach there all the way... IDK
 
Update
17mm is the correct size. I probably did not place it well the first time.
I can't for the life of me turn that wrench at all. Tight space to work in, maybe 1.5" room to turn the wrench, but it won't budge.
It looks like I have to take the battery tray out to make some more room in there. The longest screwdriver I have is comes about 1 inch below the top of the battery tray. No way I can do it through the wheel well.

I got work ahead of me this weekend.
 
Just as a side note, the washer under the nut is a sealing washer and may leak after you brake the nut loose. I adjusted my steering box and the washer hasn't leaked, so I consider myself lucky. If you're not in a hurry you probably should have a new washer ready before you brake the nut loose.
 
I would suggest get everything else tighten up before adjust the steering box.

Most of the time the steering box is NOT the issue......ask me how I know.
 
Have adjusted GMs before-the most wear is usually in in the "straight-ahead" part of the sector gear. If it's adjusted tight in the straight ahead position it may bind (interference fit now in the gears) at the far turned positions. I had good luck adjusting with the front end off the ground and hand-turning (left to right) the wheels through the steering travel. You could feel the bind much better that way. There should be NONE-as stated will damage. Fix the loose parts in the steering etc to fix it. Have looked on youtube and don't find any good videos on checking .
 
That's what I did, all the slop was in the "straight ahead" area of the steering, so I adjusted for that. I'm really close, but I'll probably leave it alone for now.

And I've checked/fixed everything else beforehand.
 
If your box is too tight (heh!), the steering won't self center and it will wear out in short order.

There's no self-centreing as far as I'm aware with the steering boxes, and there's no centre 'detent' position. One thing I need to check with mine is that I lined the pitman up properly as I'm getting a bit more steering towards one side of centre at the wheel than the other. Been 6 yrs since I fitted a re-co box. A later 105 series box would be nice, subject to the price of about A$3k for a new one.
 
Just an add on to this thread, from another forum which I found as the best description for adjustment, makes sense..


loosen the screw first and then feel for the contact on the tighten, it is subtle shuttle cock shape.

would apply to most steer box adjustments, probably shouldn't do it until everything else is checked first, tre's, tyre pressure (not to high), rubbers, alignment, toe in, bearing pre loads, knuckle nut torque, spring u bolt torques in front and back, stabilizer, shocks, damper..anything else?

It is tempting to do the deceptive easy box adjustment first, but it should be done as last resort.
 
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