Poll : No start, click. Or no start after first crank. (1 Viewer)

Temp sensitive Triggers ?

  • Summer/ Winter first see no starts when heat/ac and blower left on

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Year round

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Vehicle was warmed up

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Vehicle was cold/overnight or longer

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Block or battery heater

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Seeing any repeating time intervals (ie. every 3 weeks?)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

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morganism

SunkCostFallacy
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Threads
40
Messages
826
Location
Verde Valley, AZ
Have been getting this every 3 weeks or so now, since weather changed. So lets get some background info for a real diagnostic flow. Questions first, reasons why next.

  1. Did the no-start happen at the start of summer/winter ? Do you leave the blower fan on then?
  2. Do you have all speeds on your blower fan?
  3. Do you have a coil/ignitor pair ? On distrib, wheel well, or aftermarket on firewall ?
  4. Have you had a hacked radio install, With a separate hot wire, not a plug to plug install ?
  5. Have you changed the ignition switch, new key made, turn signal switch or ignition bypass?
  6. Have you installed a push button start, or external relay, before or after ?
  7. Any blown fuses regularly ?
  8. Replaced the ignition relay under dash ?
  9. Bright headlights, or dim under idle, brightening on accel , replaced harness, relay or hd bulbs?
  10. Alternator wire to batt, or other wire upgrade to ignition switch or fuse boxes ?

 
The radio question isn't just because of possible wiring "infractions". It seems it may be another circuit dropping another 12v source into the ignition relay line. My 60 had the original filtered line off the connector near the coil, laying there under the battery. No extra juice, means less to IR ?

I got much better amperage to the igniter after hooking a separate ground line from the case screw to the FJ body, might be the first thing to try.
Was what got me started this morn.
 
Check the battery negative clamp on the battery terminal. It can feel tight but still give poor contact. Remove it, lightly wire brush it & the terminal, then modify it if necessary to ensure it makes a good contact when clamped down. Do the same to the positive clamp.
 
These intermittent no-start conditions can often be traced to worn-out contacts in the ignition switch - not the part where the key sticks into, but the electrical switch behind the tumbler that physically directs the circuits as you turn the key. It's a wear point that goes bad after 50,000 cycles. Could be temp sensitive, too.

NLA from Toyota and scarce aftermarket.
 
Last edited:
No repeat since keeping blower fan off, and wiring a ground from the alum ignitor case to the wheelwell...will still order a ignition switch next time in the steering column to check the plug on switch, appears two diff types. Lighted ?
 

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