In retrospect, maybe the cyclic missing was from the fuel pump toggling high/low voltage. Tried a new relay, it didn't help. The bypass offered a temp fix. Runs great but the ltft is still peaking at 12%. I don't know what normal should be, but I am going to replace the fp just to be safe. Does E10 fuel bias the ltft a bit high? BTW, this was on a 95 Previa SC AWD. 2.4L 4 banger, runs about 5-8psi of boost. Fuel system is similar to other Toyotas of the era.
PO170 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter warpdriv
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- Thread starter
- #22
Great info!! How would I bypass the fuel pump resistor? This maybe would be a good trail fix too.
Also, is the fuel pump in the tank?
Thank you.
Also, is the fuel pump in the tank?
Thank you.
Try asking the author of this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...-vs-intake-manifold-pressure-here-skinny.html
He's bypassed the resistor to conduct the fuel pressure tests.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...-vs-intake-manifold-pressure-here-skinny.html
He's bypassed the resistor to conduct the fuel pressure tests.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
My '95 is throwing the P0170 Code (it is OBDII according to the hood). The reason....my exhaust fell off.
Need to add that to the new 80 owner FAQ:
*Don't lean on the radiator, the little nipple breaks off
*There is supposed to be a clamp from the firewall to the exhaust
Need to add that to the new 80 owner FAQ:
*Don't lean on the radiator, the little nipple breaks off
*There is supposed to be a clamp from the firewall to the exhaust
- Thread starter
- #27
Solved
Long story short, narrowed down to the fuel pump. When I replaced it, the connector was very corroded and just fell apart when I tried to disconnect it. So I put a new pump and new mount assembly in. No more codes and it runs really good.
Long story short, narrowed down to the fuel pump. When I replaced it, the connector was very corroded and just fell apart when I tried to disconnect it. So I put a new pump and new mount assembly in. No more codes and it runs really good.
Just had this issue and got it fixed. Fuel filter clogged which caused the fuel pump to go bad. Running very good now.
Bringing a thread back from the dead. This last weekend, I installed a CB radio into my dash and as a result of having to run errands while working on the truck, my battery was disconnected for most of the day. Once I had the radio installed, I reconnected the battery to find that I had the P0170 code.
Will the truck throw this code after the battery has been disconnected for a while or do I need to look further into this? Initially, it was missing during idle, but after having driven it around a bit, it seems to have smoothed out, so I erased the code. The code has not returned, but I am getting ready to go on a camping trip on Friday, so I wanted to be sure that I do not have a problem that will show back up mid Friday morning, two hours from the house.
Thoughts?
Thanks guys,
Jonathan
Will the truck throw this code after the battery has been disconnected for a while or do I need to look further into this? Initially, it was missing during idle, but after having driven it around a bit, it seems to have smoothed out, so I erased the code. The code has not returned, but I am getting ready to go on a camping trip on Friday, so I wanted to be sure that I do not have a problem that will show back up mid Friday morning, two hours from the house.
Thoughts?
Thanks guys,
Jonathan
Anyone... Bueller?
Mine keeps throwing this one every time I clear the code(within 20-30 miles).
Within the past 2 years it has gotten new spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, both O2 sensors, air filter, cleaned MAF, throttle body, new cat-back exhaust, and throttle position sensor(all oem minus the cat back).
From this thread I've gathered P0170 is fuel related?
Seems to still drive alright.
Within the past 2 years it has gotten new spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, both O2 sensors, air filter, cleaned MAF, throttle body, new cat-back exhaust, and throttle position sensor(all oem minus the cat back).
From this thread I've gathered P0170 is fuel related?
Seems to still drive alright.
I am still having this problem too. I am hoping to spend some time on it this weekend. I am planning on checking my fuel filter first and cleaning my MAF sensor, although this does not seem to help, but I have not done it yet, so I figure it cannot hurt. I am hoping that it is not a fuel pump, but it would not surprise me, given the responses from others.
OK, so I had a chance to look at the 80 yesterday to try and troubleshoot my consistent P0170 code. This is what I found
:
I Googled fuel filters and fuel pumps to try and get an idea of what the cost was going to be, and was thinking of dropping the tank when my 16-year old son looked over the engine and spotted that my air intake had come apart, after my air flow sensor.
It seems that the tube (for lack of a better name) attaching the manifold (metal part) with the sensor and subsequent air filter was broken in two. The PO had used black electrical tape and that had come apart, leaving about a 2" gap, allowing higher air flow into the engine than what was being read by the sensor.
So, we took the assembly apart and used Gorilla duct tape to piece the "tube" back together. We started the engine, and cleared the code.... it purred.
No more jumpy idle at low RPMs, no more code. We drove it around for the rest of the day and the code never re-appeared.
I wanted to post this to help out any others who might be looking at replacing their fuel components. Take a look at your air system too.
Happy Trails.
: I Googled fuel filters and fuel pumps to try and get an idea of what the cost was going to be, and was thinking of dropping the tank when my 16-year old son looked over the engine and spotted that my air intake had come apart, after my air flow sensor.
It seems that the tube (for lack of a better name) attaching the manifold (metal part) with the sensor and subsequent air filter was broken in two. The PO had used black electrical tape and that had come apart, leaving about a 2" gap, allowing higher air flow into the engine than what was being read by the sensor.So, we took the assembly apart and used Gorilla duct tape to piece the "tube" back together. We started the engine, and cleared the code.... it purred.
No more jumpy idle at low RPMs, no more code. We drove it around for the rest of the day and the code never re-appeared.
I wanted to post this to help out any others who might be looking at replacing their fuel components. Take a look at your air system too.
Happy Trails.
As an update, we replaced the air intake hose with new and now have NO CELs! This took care of both my P0170 and P0402 codes. It does make some sense that these can be linked given the fuel to air ratio and possible vacuum loss caused by an open line into the valve cover.
We now have been running the 80 for over a week, with no codes coming up! It is a beautiful thing!
We now have been running the 80 for over a week, with no codes coming up! It is a beautiful thing!
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
Another thing to look at, I just had an exhaust leak develop on the bank 1 o2 sensor flange weld (upstream side) and caused a p0170, 130, 133. I think that fresh air was getting in once the exhaust cooled and made the ecu think I was running lean, and the cat or o2 sensors were going bad. Patched the leak with putty for the time being and cleared the codes. So far so good.
We are now throwing a P0133 code.
I will take a look for any exhaust leaks. Thanks for the info. It seems like I have been chasing codes ever since we picked up the 80 and are slowly finding the different pieces causing the trouble.
I did try and check the O2 sensor, but I could not find any markings around the pins except 1, 2, 3, & 4, which was not help since the FSM says to check resistance between +B and HT. Any help with identifying which pins are the correct pins for this check would be helpful.
Thanks.
I will take a look for any exhaust leaks. Thanks for the info. It seems like I have been chasing codes ever since we picked up the 80 and are slowly finding the different pieces causing the trouble.
I did try and check the O2 sensor, but I could not find any markings around the pins except 1, 2, 3, & 4, which was not help since the FSM says to check resistance between +B and HT. Any help with identifying which pins are the correct pins for this check would be helpful.
Thanks.