Please help! Timing looks correct between cam, cam, and timing belt gear, but when I add the harmonic balancer/cover it looks to be out be 25-30º!

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Obioban

Obioban

Joined
Apr 20, 2025
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West Chester, PA
I'm really at a loss to what I'm missing here.

Did the timing procedure, and all looked to be well. Arrows on the belts were in the correct location, timing marks were lined up on both cams and the timing belt gear to oil pump casting:

IMG_0230.webp


IMG_0224.webp


IMG_0224.webp


But then I added the timing cover (brand new, so should be unwarped, with all hardware, so should be properly located), and it's not ever close. Reading with the cams as above:

IMG_0227.webp



Pulled it back off again, and the gear to oil pump mark still seems to be bang on.

What am I doing wrong?
 
I think for 06 LX you should set cams to the T mark not to the straight lines. See post 15 in thread below for more info.

BnvS

Thread 'OTRAM Step by Step Timing Belt Replacement Video Instructions - DIY (Toyota 2UV-FE, 4.7l V8)'

Dear Friends, Here is yet another timing belt installation DIY step by step you can follow. In my case I used Otrams Videos which were very helpful in getting the TB removed and installed back up.

I took the time to get the time stamp from each step of OTRAM's videos so you can click on specific time stamp and jump to that step.

Additionally I tried to document all the Nuts/bolts/screws, screw sizes and torque settings for each components that needs to be taken off.

The full link to the file is below - Toyota 4.7l V8 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure. The link also has some more...
  • Like
 
LazarusTaxa said:
Can you show pictures of where the arrows on the belts fall on the timing pulleys and where the lines on the belt fall on the crank pulley? Without that, we cant really tell anything...
Click to expand...
Now that I've turned the engine over a couple times, they don't really align with anything meaningful. Before they aligned with with the timing lines and with the dot on the bottom of the crank gear.

That said, not sure why we need them to check anything now? That's just to ease assembly, no?
 
leveeguy said:
I think for 06 LX you should set cams to the T mark not to the straight lines. See post 15 in thread below for more info.

BnvS

Thread 'OTRAM Step by Step Timing Belt Replacement Video Instructions - DIY (Toyota 2UV-FE, 4.7l V8)'

Dear Friends, Here is yet another timing belt installation DIY step by step you can follow. In my case I used Otrams Videos which were very helpful in getting the TB removed and installed back up.

I took the time to get the time stamp from each step of OTRAM's videos so you can click on specific time stamp and jump to that step.

Additionally I tried to document all the Nuts/bolts/screws, screw sizes and torque settings for each components that needs to be taken off.

The full link to the file is below - Toyota 4.7l V8 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure. The link also has some more...
  • Like
Click to expand...
Hmm. If that's true, that might explain it!

Reading through it, that certainly explains the discrepancy.

... back to disassemble what I have reassembled!
 
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Prior to Removing the Old Timing Belt, use 22mm Socket to Rotate Crank Pulley Clockwise until:
- Cam pulleys at the "T" marks
- Crank pulley mark pointing to the nub on the plastic timing cover.

When you Remove the Crankshaft Pulley and Bolt, watch to make sure Crank doesn’t rotate / move.
I use a 22mm Weighted Socket and Large 1/2 Impact for the Bolt.
Then use a Gear / Pulley Puller for the Pulley.

Installing Timing Belt
- The arrows on the belt point forwards
- Put the driver side on first, holding it in place with a clamp. The mark on the belt should line up with the cam mark on the pulley.
- If Non-VVT-i, advance the passenger side a tiny bit, then put the passenger side on, then move the cam pulley back to the 'T". The mark on the belt should line up with the cam mark on the pulley. Hold it in place with a clamp. If VVT-i, I do not advance / adjust the cam.
- Slide the belt over the crank gear
- The marks on the belt must line up with:
- Driver side cam mark on the pulley
- Passenger side cam mark on the pulley
- The Divot / mark on the crank gear and the bolt hole on the crank gear

Install Timing Belt Tensioner w/ 12mm Socket. Alternate tightening the 2 Bolts. Torque to 19 Ft Lbs. Remove the hex wrench that held the pin.

Install Timing Belt Guide / Crankshaft Angle Sensor Plate. This just slides on.

Install Lower Timing Belt Cover w/ 10mm Socket. Torque the (4) Bolts to 66 In Lbs.

Install Crankshaft Pulley and Bolt.
Rotate Crankshaft 2 Full Rotations and Stop when the Mark on the Crankshaft Pulley Lines Up the “0”.
Confirm that the Marks on Both Camshaft Pulleys Line Up with the Vertical Bar (Not the “T”.).
This Confirms the Timing is Correct.
Torque the Crankshaft Bolt to 181 Ft Lbs.
 
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Alright. Timing is now coming up correct.

To get here, I had to move cams and crank with the belt off. If the timing is coming up as correct after several clockwise rotations of the crank, can I assume I'm good to go? As in, there's no way the VVTi is holding back some sort of timing that is going to bite once I fire it up, build oil pressure, etc, because I had to manually tweak to get it here?

Thanks again!
 
Looking again, the crank isn't actually bang on 0º at this point, to the cover. But, pretty sure if I was one cog over, it would be more off, the opposite direction. Is this... good?

IMG_0247.webp


IMG_0248.webp

IMG_0250.webp
 
Obioban said:
Alright. Timing is now coming up correct.

To get here, I had to move cams and crank with the belt off. If the timing is coming up as correct after several clockwise rotations of the crank, can I assume I'm good to go? As in, there's no way the VVTi is holding back some sort of timing that is going to bite once I fire it up, build oil pressure, etc, because I had to manually tweak to get it here?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Very bad idea to move crank or cams, when T-belt off. How many degrees rotation, which rotated from what position, matters.
VVT is a true interference engine!

Obioban said:
Looking again, the crank isn't actually bang on 0º at this point, to the cover. But, pretty sure if I was one cog over, it would be more off, the opposite direction. Is this... good?

View attachment 4038681

View attachment 4038682
View attachment 4038684
Click to expand...
Timing is correct.
I'll add. For disassembly, w/ VVT, we set cams to the "T". The harmonic balancer pulley time mark (notch w/white line) then, lines to the plastics nipple protruding from lower belt cover. This put cam in safety position. Where spring tension will not result in cam movement when T- belt removed/off.
 
If when you start engine it. You subsequently, develop a misfire DTC. Check compression and do a borescope exam in that or those cylinder.
 
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2001LC said:
Very bad idea to move crank or cams, when T-belt off. How many degrees rotation, which rotated from what position, matters.
VVT is a true interference engine!


Timing is correct.
I'll add. For disassembly, w/ VVT, we set cams to the "T". The harmonic balancer pulley time mark (notch w/white line) then, lines to the plastics nipple protruding from lower belt cover. This put cam in safety position. Where spring tension will not result in cam movement when T- belt removed/off.
Click to expand...
That’s exactly why I had to manually tweak— the spring tension caused the cam to move when I wasn’t even near it— just jumped.

Really hoping I didn’t bend a valve, now!

Next time will disassemble using the T’s. I wish I had known that going in!
 
I've not seen that ~ 5 degree cam jump off the "I", when T-belt released. Cause a problem! 🫰
 
I'm amazed you can bend a valve without knowing it on this engine. Other engines I've timed you can get to the point where the crank stops (when turning by hand) because it hit a valve and there's no issue (assuming you don't force it). The fact that it can happen without even feeling it is terrifying. Or the fact that it can happen by jumping due to cam spring pressure.

Sigh. Really hoping this didn't bite me.
 
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