Pertronix Ignitor install on 73 F.5?

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cc93cruiser

cc93cruiser

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Do I remove the ballast resistor on my coil/ 73 f.5 engine when installing the ignitor 1665A on distributor? Also installing the PerTronix 40511 Flame-Thrower 40,000 Volt 3.0 ohm Coil.. Instructions say not to remove ballast resistor if equipped, but I thought this and the points system inside the dizzy gets tossed....
 
From a Pertronix Guru/Vendor
65swb45 said:
Steve, I've been selling and installing these for over 8 years now. NOT A SINGLE INSTALL with a ballast resistor. Not a single problem either.

I have noted that Pertronix has a blanket policy of not recommending changing from factory routing where the ballast resistor is concerned. I think that that policy is based on other applications where there are components in the system that might be damaged by running unregulated voltage. Since this is not an issue with LC installs, I choose to run them 'open.' As I said, I have not seen a SINGLE issue from this choice.

You should DEFINITELY recheck your timing. It is almost always different with the Pertronix install than stock. I generally add at least a few degrees over stock as long as the motor doesn't complain about it [pinging]

Glad you like it.;)
Click to expand...
 
Thanks guys, went to install the the kit yesterday and the plate which comes with the kit did not line up with the holes in the distributor... F**K! Is there a different kit for my dizzy? My dizzy is 19100-61080
 
Is the pertronix kit I need part number 1662 ?
 
I installed mine with the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil and the instructions said no resistor needed.
Both holes did not align on mine either. I have only one screw holding it in and I believe that is correct. If not, it's been wrong for 15 years. I have the 1665A also in my 74 F.5. I installed it when I got the rig and bought a new non-USA distributor but the hole pattern in the points plate was the same as the stock dizzy. I'm hoping someone here will confirm that one screw is correct. I was just assuming it was. If I remember correctly there was only one hole that has the bevel for the single flat head screw.
 
I just returned the 1665a kit because none the holes lined up and the plate wouldn't even sit flush.. on base of dizzy
 
There's another round head screw in the Pertronix plate that I figured was for that short wire that came with the kit. Not sure what the wire was for but I didn't use it. The screw however alone pentetrates through and will cause it to not sit flat. I removed mine but then put it back so it pushed onto bottom plate figuring it would help keep it in place. There's at least one vendor here that sells these and hopefully he'll chime in. I may have done it all wrong but it's been working great. Hope you get it squared away. It's really nice not messing with points and it's never a problem with it getting wet.
 
Yeah I PM'd 65swb45 as I believe he's a vendor.. The 1662 does not even come with a plate.. The 2 mounting holes are on the little black module. I believe/hope this is the right mounting solution for my dizzy... I have noticed that there seems to be to different dizzies.. From the outside dizzy housing (looking down at the dizzy in engine) you can see the vacuum port on either the left side or right side. Clearly 2 different dizzies. I have the one on the left side. Almost all the dizzy/ignitor installs I have seen are the dizzies with the vacuum port on the right, the difference is not only in the outside, but internally also between the two..
 
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Also, I think I read that there has been peeps that cut or grind away at the plate to make fit in there dizzy..
 
Read this install. It's how I did mine.

Project FJ40 Cruiser Ignition System Upgrade: Off-Road.com

I included a picture of the exact parts I ordered. Make sure you purchase the Flame thrower II coil.

image.webp
 
Thanks, this is one of the write ups I used... But as mentioned above, we must have to different Toyota dizzies.. Mine does not look like yours internally or externally, the external vacuum port is on the opposite side.. Pic # 1 yours, pic # 2 of mine

pertronix-3.webp


image-1439822467.webp
 
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Please, which is which? Which is better on a non-smogged f.5?
 
Yours is vacuum retard. I was told the vacuum advance was better but the stock carb does not have the port for vacuum advance. I bought the non-USA dizzy (vacuum advance) and had Jim C rebuild the carb and he installed the port for vac advance. You can figure out which is which by knowing that the dizzy shaft rotates clockwise. Vacuum on yours will pull the plate clockwise and retard the timing. The vac advance dizzy pulls it counter clockwise and advances the timing.
Here's how my 1665A sits in the non-USA dizzy.

DSC04613 w.webp
 
Remembering from another thread about vacuum retard distributors the guru @FJ40Jim recommended disconnecting the vacuum line/plugging the port on the carb and setting timing at 10 degrees... But I don't remember if that truck had an electronic ignition conversion, hoping he will chime in and give you some sage advise beyond my knowledge...
HTH,
Will
 
93Cruiser, your dissy is the better 75-77 2F points type.
The vac fitting orientation is not visible in the pic to tell if it is advance or retard. try posting a pic without an ignitor plate in the way of seeing the vac advance canister on dissy.
 
Here is a pic of the dizzy with the ignitor installed...

20160913_211631.webp
 
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