Panhard drop bracket option?

[linuxgod]

Photos of what you’re talking about?

The top of the bracket will contact the frame at full bump stop compression. I had the same issue, even with active bump stops, and more or less did the same thing with an angle grinder. It’s not a lot of contact but any bracket-to-frame contact seriously concerns me, either in damaging the frame or more likely causing damage to the bracket mount which might cause it to loosen over time or possible even shear a mounting bolt

 

[ttrmike]

Ive had even the shorty bracket contact the frame under full compression with factory rear bump stops.

 

[highfructose]

The top of the bracket will contact the frame at full bump stop compression. I had the same issue, even with active bump stops, and more or less did the same thing with an angle grinder. It’s not a lot of contact but any bracket-to-frame contact seriously concerns me, either in damaging the frame or more likely causing damage to the bracket mount which might cause it to loosen over time or possible even shear a mounting bolt

That’s interesting. I may not have this issue because I think I have the “shorty” one…not the one with 2 holes…

 

[tbisaacs]

That’s interesting. I may not have this issue because I think I have the “shorty” one…not the one with 2 holes…

Yea same. Mine hasn’t made any contact and have thoroughly whoooped it

 

[linuxgod]

That’s interesting. I may not have this issue because I think I have the “shorty” one…not the one with 2 holes…

Yeah the short one is probably fine. Even the tall one seems like it only makes a tiny bit of contact, but still any contact seems like the kind of thing that could shear a bolt

 

[hdj105]

Ive had even the shorty bracket contact the frame under full compression with factory rear bump stops.

That’s disappointing to hear, obviously the bracket just doesn’t work with the OE suspension travel and geometry, it simply only corrects the panhard geometry for lift, and the benefits are not really compelling I don’t feel.

Edit:
Also another downside I’ve discovered is when fitting an aftermarket larger diameter rear sway bar (in my case a 30mm Whiteline), they use a clamp on style collar to locate the sway bar to prevent any side to side movement (the OE bar uses those crimped on collars inside each saddle). Because the RHS saddle mounts to the DrKDSS bracket, there is not enough room for this clamp on collar. I had to fit both collars either side of the LHS saddle which should still work fine.

 

[hdj105]

but still any contact seems like the kind of thing that could shear a bolt

Oh yeah, it’s a very solid metallic clunk! With the rear Kaymar, wheel carrier, double jerry holder and 170L (45 gallon) LR tank there’s plenty of momentum to stop, and this bracket smacking the chassis isn’t the place!

Pic below showing the piece I cut off and the point of contact!

 

[linuxgod]

Given the point of contact it seems like the bracket design should be changed to notch that corner at least.

I’m surprised to hear of contact with the short bracket.

 

[prharper]

Guys - read all 26 pages of posts, a lot to digest. Bringing some life back this thread.

I'm considering getting the Dr.KDSS bolt on kit after hearing some very positive feedback from folks at the last Cruisers on the Rocks event. @ga12r1 says it's a "Game Changer"

Some of you on the thread who installed this kit know my truck setup and we have wheeled together.
@afgman786 @kcjaz @linuxgod

For those who don't, I'm running the following:
BP51's with OME 2724 springs in the back on 34"s
LRA 24 aux tank.
ADGU drawers/kitchen, fridge.
Slee rear bumper swing out.

Just filled up both tanks at Costco.
Got home, on level ground, measured the following:
Frame 21" to center bolt, Axle is 17" to center bolt which translates to 4" bolt height difference. Truck drives fairly straight and smooth on the highway.

Given those measurements, Dr.KDSS fitment advice is to go with the standard version, using the top hole since it's over 3" difference.
Given the weight of my truck, I don't want this bracket smacking the frame nor do I want to deal with cutting off the top portion (assuming regular) if I can avoid it. I'm not going any higher on the lift either. (new set of BP51's in my garage that I'll install in Spring)

Which should I order, shorty or regular version? Appreciate any feedback.

 

[Artie]

Guys - read all 26 pages of posts, a lot to digest. Bringing some life back this thread.

I'm considering getting the Dr.KDSS bolt on kit after hearing some very positive feedback from folks at the last Cruisers on the Rocks event. @ga12r1 says it's a "Game Changer"

Some of you on the thread who installed this kit know my truck setup and we have wheeled together.
@afgman786 @kcjaz @linuxgod

For those who don't, I'm running the following:
BP51's with OME 2724 springs in the back on 34"s
LRA 24 aux tank.
ADGU drawers/kitchen, fridge.
Slee rear bumper swing out.

Just filled up both tanks at Costco.
Got home, on level ground, measured the following:
Frame 21" to center bolt, Axle is 17" to center bolt which translates to 4" bolt height difference. Truck drives fairly straight and smooth on the highway.

Given those measurements, Dr.KDSS fitment advice is to go with the standard version, using the top hole since it's over 3" difference.
Given the weight of my truck, I don't want this bracket smacking the frame nor do I want to deal with cutting off the top portion (assuming regular) if I can avoid it. I'm not going any higher on the lift either. (new set of BP51's in my garage that I'll install in Spring)

Which should I order, shorty or regular version? Appreciate any feedback.

Our trucks are very similar. I went with the 2 hole version but ended up using the shorter hole. I don’t recall my measurements but my comments with Dr.Kdss are somewhere in this thread and he lays out why I should stick with the lower hole.

I’ve yet to make contact with my larger bracket but I may be a little tame behind the wheel.

 

[ElJayBird]

Guys - read all 26 pages of posts, a lot to digest. Bringing some life back this thread.

I'm considering getting the Dr.KDSS bolt on kit after hearing some very positive feedback from folks at the last Cruisers on the Rocks event. @ga12r1 says it's a "Game Changer"

Some of you on the thread who installed this kit know my truck setup and we have wheeled together.
@afgman786 @kcjaz @linuxgod

For those who don't, I'm running the following:
BP51's with OME 2724 springs in the back on 34"s
LRA 24 aux tank.
ADGU drawers/kitchen, fridge.
Slee rear bumper swing out.

Just filled up both tanks at Costco.
Got home, on level ground, measured the following:
Frame 21" to center bolt, Axle is 17" to center bolt which translates to 4" bolt height difference. Truck drives fairly straight and smooth on the highway.

Given those measurements, Dr.KDSS fitment advice is to go with the standard version, using the top hole since it's over 3" difference.
Given the weight of my truck, I don't want this bracket smacking the frame nor do I want to deal with cutting off the top portion (assuming regular) if I can avoid it. I'm not going any higher on the lift either. (new set of BP51's in my garage that I'll install in Spring)

Which should I order, shorty or regular version? Appreciate any feedback.

Maybe go with the shorty and then if a little more adjustment is needed, grab an adjustable panhard to dial it in? That’s what I’m doing anyway…

 

[linuxgod]

Guys - read all 26 pages of posts, a lot to digest. Bringing some life back this thread.

I'm considering getting the Dr.KDSS bolt on kit after hearing some very positive feedback from folks at the last Cruisers on the Rocks event. @ga12r1 says it's a "Game Changer"

Some of you on the thread who installed this kit know my truck setup and we have wheeled together.
@afgman786 @kcjaz @linuxgod

For those who don't, I'm running the following:
BP51's with OME 2724 springs in the back on 34"s
LRA 24 aux tank.
ADGU drawers/kitchen, fridge.
Slee rear bumper swing out.

Just filled up both tanks at Costco.
Got home, on level ground, measured the following:
Frame 21" to center bolt, Axle is 17" to center bolt which translates to 4" bolt height difference. Truck drives fairly straight and smooth on the highway.

Given those measurements, Dr.KDSS fitment advice is to go with the standard version, using the top hole since it's over 3" difference.
Given the weight of my truck, I don't want this bracket smacking the frame nor do I want to deal with cutting off the top portion (assuming regular) if I can avoid it. I'm not going any higher on the lift either. (new set of BP51's in my garage that I'll install in Spring)

Which should I order, shorty or regular version? Appreciate any feedback.

I have a decent amount of rear lift and used the bottom hole. The top helped but the bottom actually works better. Also the 2 hole version might contact the frame on full compression so IMO order the shorty or be prepared to trim the tall one unless you run longer bump stops

 

[kcjaz]

My panhard correction bracket is eimkeith and I used the top hole. Not sure how different Dr. KDSS bracket would be.

My panhard has some marks on it and a slight bow so it has hit something. The bracket doesn’t appear to hit anything. It’s the pan hurt itself.I do have tall aftermarket bump stops, but I also don’t remember the order of which mod came first.

 

[Climbingnut]

I have a 2” OME lift with BP-51’s on my 200. Went with the shorty from DrKDSS and it worked a treat. I have a heavy rear steel bumper with swing out, tow an off-road caravan, and usually have my family of 6 plus extra stuff. So we’re heavy. Our off-roading is everything from heavy corrugations, cross axle terrain, river beds (dry/wet), sand with whoops and such. I added some @PerryParts extended front bump stops which helped so much, and might be a consideration for you as well.

 

[prharper]

I have a 2” OME lift with BP-51’s on my 200. Went with the shorty from DrKDSS and it worked a treat. I have a heavy rear steel bumper with swing out, tow an off-road caravan, and usually have my family of 6 plus extra stuff. So we’re heavy. Our off-roading is everything from heavy corrugations, cross axle terrain, river beds (dry/wet), sand with whoops and such. I added some @PerryParts extended front bump stops which helped so much, and might be a consideration for you as well.

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the shorty version. Will consider bump stop upgrade. I've also heard good things about Perry Parts and they graciously donate those to our LC event raffles.

 

[Climbingnut]

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the shorty version. Will consider bump stop upgrade. I've also heard good things about Perry Parts and they graciously donate those to our LC event raffles.

I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the shorty version, nor with the bump stops should you go with them.

 

[linuxgod]

I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the shorty version, nor with the bump stops should you go with them.

I have Durobumps (Perry didn’t have a 200 series option at the time) but those plus the bracket on the low position have been great. When towing I’ve baked the rear bumps going over dips in the road and they aren’t pillows but feel much better than factory. I have a pretty decent rear lift and even though the bar isn’t quite horizontal in the low position I’ve tried both and it’s actually perfect in that spot and slightly too much in the top position.

 

[Climbingnut]

I have Durobumps (Perry didn’t have a 200 series option at the time) but those plus the bracket on the low position have been great. When towing I’ve baked the rear bumps going over dips in the road and they aren’t pillows but feel much better than factory. I have a pretty decent rear lift and even though the bar isn’t quite horizontal in the low position I’ve tried both and it’s actually perfect in that spot and slightly too much in the top position.

I think we likely have the same OME BP-51 lift. Gives about 50mm lift up front and around 30mm in the back? I have heavy front and rear bumpers, and then also tow a lot. I need to upgrade the rear bump stops like you’ve done. Maybe my kids will whine less when it comes to sitting in the back?

 

[linuxgod]

I think we likely have the same OME BP-51 lift. Gives about 50mm lift up front and around 30mm in the back? I have heavy front and rear bumpers, and then also tow a lot. I need to upgrade the rear bump stops like you’ve done. Maybe my kids will whine less when it comes to sitting in the back?

Probably the same setup up front (give or take the amount of preload) and the same rear shocks but I have Ironman medium duty rear springs now. I’ve got at least 2” of lift in the rear, even with the rear bumper and drawer

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Looks like KOAN has his option for folks down under (on their new arrivals list...lots of new kit for 250's too):

Panhard Corrector Toyota LC200

Panhard Corrector to suit Toyota LandCruiser LC200 - KAON

www.kaon.com.au