PAIR/reed Valve; delete or not to delete?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Actually i was able to find and order with that part number, lol we shall see if it fits. I really appreciate all the help/info thus far! I need to figure out the exhaust after i finish all these stupid coolant hoses. I have a 94 and was thinking of getting these headers as the down pipes were rusted through and just replacing the rest of the rusted exhaust with a new one. This will be a weekend trail car so I will get historic tags and not need to pass smog or anything.

What i want to do while i am waiting on parts is to also delete the EGR but lol as i have seen there are many right ups but i cant find any-one/shop that makes and sells block off plates. Also i am not sure clearly based on what I read, to delete and not throw a check engine light. Im still new to the 80 as i have been working on my LX and W126 MERC for the last couple years.

Look for the Huddexpo kit. That’s what I used which doesn’t require block off plates. Essentially everything stays in the engine but you use a jumper and some BBs to close the system.

Edit. Read this. This is what I use. No codes.

 
I know Joey is going through some things right now with the turbo kits, but go to Wits End and look for the keychains, you will find what you need....

You don't need the Hudd Expo plug, nothing against them, but you already have it., factory. Toyota wired the cars for the EGR temp sensor in 93, but didn't actually include the sensor until 95 (again, Cali may be different), they installed a factory bypass plug. If you don't need to pass a visual inspection, you can get all that EGR junk out of the way.

Jason
 
Last edited:
I don't have a Cali 80, but my '94 had a egr temp sensor in the egr mount, fwiw.

I just plugged the egr temp sensor connector with the hudd expo jumper. It would be easy enough to use the rest of the kit to block off the temp sensor hole, and put the bbs in the vacuum lines.

PAIR removal is completely separate from and is not bound to EGR removal. I think they get jumbled because a lot of people do them at the same time.

For PAIR, take off the shutter valve assembly from the head, remove the pipes to the exhaust manifolds, replace the holes with either block off plates or relocate your O2 sensors there. All that leaves is the one vacuum line on the front of the engine that you can cap/plug/bb, etc. to avoid a vacuum leak.
 
Last edited:
I don't have a Cali 80, but my '94 had a egr temp sensor in the egr mount, fwiw.
Good to know, just curious now, what month was yours built ? Just looked, and the parts listing shows 8/92 - 1/95 for the 93 / 94 EGR temp sensor

8941250010

but I didn't have one, I have the plug. And I understood that to be normal for those years. My truck was built in 6/93.
Jason
 
Last edited:
I know Joey is going through some things right now with the turbo kits, but go to Wits End and look for the keychains, you will find what you need....

You don't need the Hudd Expo plug, nothing against them, but you already have it., factory. Toyota wired the cars for the EGR temp sensor in 93, but didn't actually include the sensor until 95 (again, Cali may be different), they installed a factory bypass plug. If you don't need to pass a visual inspection, you can get all that EGR junk out of the way.

Jason
Interesting, also these key chains lol i thought were just key chains and not functional when i looked them the other week.
 
Just deleted mine today. Been wanting to do this for many years but couldn’t due to living in Ca. Now that I’m in a free state (TN) I took that stuff off. Here’s a step by step. Took about 30 minutes. Looks a lot cleaner now.

First off, I removed the hose from the pair to the air cleaner assembly along with the air intake hose to free up room to work.


Then remove the nuts from the flanges on the exhaust manifolds. It’s a lot easier to reach them through the fender well with a long extension.

IMG_7015.webp


IMG_7016.webp


IMG_7017.webp


IMG_7018.webp


IMG_7019.webp
 
Then remove the two bolts at the top flange on the pair valve and the two bolts securing the bracket to the head. Once those are all removed you can take out the air rail.

Remove the two bolts holding the valve to the head. There will be one small vacuum line that runs under the front of the valve cover it will need to be capped off (see last post).

IMG_7020.webp


IMG_7021.webp


IMG_7022.webp


IMG_7023.webp


IMG_7025.webp
 
I had one of the wits end keychains, but need to order a second one to complete this. I took and old o2 sensor and used it to put in place of the air rail for now.

IMG_7027.webp


IMG_7028.webp


IMG_7030.webp


IMG_7031.webp


IMG_7034.webp
 
Lastly I used a brake cleaner cap to plug the hole to the air cleaner and a valve cap with sealant to plug the tiny vacuum line. Then I sat back and enjoyed the view.

IMG_7032.webp


IMG_7035.webp


IMG_7033.webp


IMG_7036.webp


IMG_7037.webp
 
You can find it somewhere on this forum but Toyota sells block off plates under their YR vans. So if you look for the YR plates you’ll get the part number. They are an exact fit for the old O2 locations.

I think these are it :17148-41010
Yep. Just got some a few weeks back from Impex Japan for $6.05/each + shipping. The 1-piece hard water pipe is 87208-60161. Here's a link to the parts I got in that order.
 
Lovely, thank you for putting this together!!

My pleasure. I actually remembered to take pictures throughout the process. 10/10 recommend. Very easy job!
 
Back
Top Bottom