Painting over oil based gloss trim

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Mar 9, 2014
FL Panhandle. Pcola/Miramar Beach
We have been remodeling our house for about 6 months. I hired a painter to do ceilings and walls and trim. The trim kept peeling Off when touched. After the painter tried for a month nothing worked.

The wood trim has 25-30 year old oil paint high gloss trim that nothing will stick to.

I’ve experimented with every type of primer the big box stores sell. Every product a Sherman Williams store recommends but still nothing seems to be a good answer. It all peels off in most places. Nothing wants to stick to the high gloss.

Even sanding doesn’t always works. I’ve tried crud cutter, liquid deglosser, sanding, oils and latex paints. Not having good luck

Are Any of you experienced with something like this and know a secret. Or tips


I would try a de-glazing product, sand, prime with oil based kilz and top coat?

Thanks, I’ve tried most every product kilz makes. Nothing seems to bite into the high gloss glaze I have. Driving me crazy
I’ve recently tried the Klean brand liquid sander/deglosser then paint over. I’m waiting to see how the different paint/primer combos dry after it before applying everywhere.

I get to where I think I’ve found a combo that works then it dries/cures and nothing seems to stay on good when dry

I’ve grown tired of trying to find the right combo. I talk to pro painters around town but haven’t had luck finding a painter that I have confidence in. Our first painter did an ok job on walls and ceiling but was all talk and unable to figure out how to do the trim. Now I’ll have to redo all the trim he did, peeling off the unstuck paint. It sucks he was expensive and suppose to be a pro.
Last edited:
Shoot I missed the part in your first post about The de glosser. Would it happen to be a lacquer based pigmented finish originally? I sprayed OPEC pigmented lacquer on all my wood work in my house and dreading touching it up because I believe sherwin Williams discontinued that product.

Looks like some nice old school wood work! It’s a shame that your going thru these problems. I hope you can save that original wood work.
Higloss paint is very hard to finish over in the first place.
Next you have oil based (enamel). And I bet all the new paints are 'low voc' easy clean up with water products. (ie CRAP)
try to find a hi voc oil based paint, just a small can of any color and see how it sticks..
Rub the surface with Alcohol, to remove other oils/surface stuff then buff it w/ scotch brite.
If that doesnt work, you might as well strip it to bare wood and start from scratch.

Good luck
Thanks for the advice. I’ve spent hours reading on google about it. Watching YouTube etc
We hired a painter that didn’t think it would be a problem and I felt pity for him by the end when he couldn’t get it and i was tired of him being here. sad thing is he is a professional painter recommended by my fil and I know he feels bad we are having issues but it’s not his fault.

This paint from my parents home I tried stayed on decent in some places, and not in others. I didn’t even bother trying to clean the brush. It’s an alkyd paint. It self leveled which was nice but the local Sherman Williams said it will yellow very fast in our climate with the moisture. I feel I know more about paint now than the guys working there.

I need to take pics of all the different paints and primers I’ve tried. I’ve bought so many to try I forget and have bought the same type a time or two.

It burnt me out on working on the home but now I’m getting the energy to go again.

The home also has custom wood plantation shutters that will need paint I’m really dreading since they will probably need to be sprayed. The lady we bought the home didn’t do any maintenance for years after her divorce so I’m catching up on everything. Good thing is now homes are often sold with home warranty’s so the fridge and garage door were fixed by someone else at no cost

Last edited:
tried some Different oil bonding primers tonight and will do a top finish coat tomorrow then wait for it to cure and do my scratch test.
I’m ready to get the house situated so I can get back to being only semi behind on Toyota maintenance.

I’ve been burned thinking I found the solution before during the 16 or so other paint types and methods I’ve tried to get to work so gotta wait out the curing/drying time. Some improve strength others come off easier after they dry

I think I’ll be so pumped when I figure out the best method I’ll knock out a good bit from the high.

I've had issues with people using some odd paints - like milk paint, for example - but never to the extent you're having. Typically for oil based paint I'd start by scuffing the surface using a fine sandpaper or scotchbrite pad. Any sheen is going to resist paint adhesion. Then wash it with TSP to remove any remaining dirt or oils. Let it dry and wipe it down with a tack cloth before painting.
I put on a top coat of Sherman willams that the painter we had said was the best on top of the oil bonding primers the paint guy at lows recommended
Hoping that works out
Going to give it a week or two and do the scratch test

So far the best has been the alkyd paint but I was told that it will yellow sooner in our humidity and it didn’t stick in every situation. It isn’t as white as the others and cleaning brushes suck after it.

I’ve got a couple rooms full of my test areas.
I’m tired of buying paint but want to make sure I get it right before pulling the trigger again even with a pro I want the right recipe

All my test have been with cheap 0.98 cent brushes so I’m hoping I’ll get a better finish when I do start using better brushes. I hate cleaning brushes.

Painters are expensive..... If I ever need a career change I think being a painter will be on my list to look into.






Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom