not sure exactly what happened, was listening to music loudly on my way to pick up a kid when stereo went dark and electrical warning light came on. meter was reading about 17v. where do I start with diagnostic?
overvoltage electrical warning
- Thread starter jaewastooshort
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- Thread starter
- #2
looks like the breaker (50A) for my amp went, which has me thinking possible short, but that doesn't explain the dash light and high voltage reading. possible that the charging regulator went bad?
In your fusible link assembly (attached to the + terminal of the battery) you have (or should have) a 7.5 amp fuse. Check to see what's in there.
It's possible that you really need to replace the whole assembly due to way it makes contact/grounds:
SOLVED: 100 Series overcharging issues (1998-2002 charging setups) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/solved-100-series-overcharging-issues-1998-2002-charging-setups.1328742
It's possible that you really need to replace the whole assembly due to way it makes contact/grounds:
SOLVED: 100 Series overcharging issues (1998-2002 charging setups) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/solved-100-series-overcharging-issues-1998-2002-charging-setups.1328742
- Thread starter
- #4
I did see that thread yesterday, going to troubleshoot this afternoon. I went ahead and got a Toyota rebuilt alternator... with the 25% off and free shipping, it comes out to like $125 after core charge... not a bad item to keep on the shelf (if it's not needed right now) for the price. still on the original 25 year old alt with like 240k on it, so would not be surprised if the voltage regulator just went bad (and the regulator cost more than the full rebuilt alt with regulator 
)
)
- Thread starter
- #5
fusible link setup looks OK on inspection but I think I cracked the plastic in trying to get everything unbolted and disconnected to inspect. went ahead and ordered a new fusible link kit from cruiserpatch, so hopefully will have everything to get it fixed in one go
VR should cost 50$ or so.$125 after core charge... not a bad item to keep on the shelf (if it's not needed right now) for the price. still on the original 25 year old alt with like 240k on it, so would not be surprised if the voltage regulator just went bad (and the regulator cost more than the full rebuilt alt with regulator
Keep your core and rebuild it, the pre vvvti, maybe even the 2005's, are much easier to re do.
Before you swap in the new alt just change the VR and check the charge volts.
The s***ty thing about rebuilt alts is that they may or may nor replace the VR, But i'd swap in anyway and check if I could do it without removing and reinstalling the alt, possible when you flip it face up. I'd look at the brushes first also.
There's only one or two companies that make all the VRs.
This was a rabbit hole for me 7-8 years ago.
- Thread starter
- #7
perhaps, but looking it up at PartSouq and at Serra when I ordered the alternator (Regulator Assembly, Generator p/n 27700-50050, -50020 or -50030, PS shows them all as optional/updated options for same part), it runs anywhere between $130-200 (before taxes/shipping), where the rebuilt alt from the dealership was $125. In this case, having the warranty and not spending twice the price of the rebuilt unit on components to rebuild (bearings, brushes, VR, anything else I break or lose during rebuild) seemed the better option for now.
partsouq:
Serra (without the 25% sale I got the alt on)
Rockauto wasn't even really much better
- Thread starter
- #9
just saying that I didn't (and am still not) seeing anywhere near that $50 price... every one I've found cost more than the toyota rebuilt full assembly 
I generally don't mind going aftermarket (vs toyota) if there's not a serious downside, I'm just not seeing a viably affordable way to do the rebuild myself right now.
the way things typically go for me, now that I've bought the alternator, it'll just be a corrosion issue in the fusible link block that fixes it anyway
I generally don't mind going aftermarket (vs toyota) if there's not a serious downside, I'm just not seeing a viably affordable way to do the rebuild myself right now.
the way things typically go for me, now that I've bought the alternator, it'll just be a corrosion issue in the fusible link block that fixes it anyway
- Thread starter
- #11
my browser on my work computer is blocking the link/site as "malware", but if it's genuine denso at that price it's a heck of a good price compared to what I'm seeing everywhere else
Toyota makes is hard to rebuild alternators, pricing voltage reglators nearly as high as the alternator itself. Even with wholesale components, it's hard to be economical. I gave up on them years ago.
Remain Toyota is best. A fast one & done.
Keys:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Swap over to new ALT. The wire harness bracket, held on by 10MM bolt.
Position hot wire lug, with it's keys into proper slots locking angle. Torque nut 7ft-lbf.
Replace cap on hot wire. They do very often bust. So I order new with alternator. Can easily be add at later date.
Test wire house block, that it locks in. By trying to pull out. If locking clip is broken, replace the wire housing block, with new OEM (P/N 90980-11349 98-02.. 90980-11964 03-07).
Torque all bolts and nut to spec.
Personally. I don't R&R ALT. With air pipe or lower coolant hose in place or van pump bolted down. I just get stuff, out of my way.
Once I have alt free from mounting bolts, stud, nuts. I remove 10mm bolt holding wire harness bracket, remover plastic cap and 10mm nut from hot wire, unplug wire housing from back.
Keys:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Swap over to new ALT. The wire harness bracket, held on by 10MM bolt.
Position hot wire lug, with it's keys into proper slots locking angle. Torque nut 7ft-lbf.
Replace cap on hot wire. They do very often bust. So I order new with alternator. Can easily be add at later date.
Test wire house block, that it locks in. By trying to pull out. If locking clip is broken, replace the wire housing block, with new OEM (P/N 90980-11349 98-02.. 90980-11964 03-07).
Torque all bolts and nut to spec.
Personally. I don't R&R ALT. With air pipe or lower coolant hose in place or van pump bolted down. I just get stuff, out of my way.
Once I have alt free from mounting bolts, stud, nuts. I remove 10mm bolt holding wire harness bracket, remover plastic cap and 10mm nut from hot wire, unplug wire housing from back.
- Thread starter
- #14
Still no notification that the alternator has shipped, but got the new fusible link setup from Cruiser Patch installed... and...
... everything looks good. No high voltage warning so far, so the alt will still get installed when it gets here (and old one will stay a spare), but everything looks good. Many thanks for recommending that thread that called out the fusible link setup as a possible issue.
... everything looks good. No high voltage warning so far, so the alt will still get installed when it gets here (and old one will stay a spare), but everything looks good. Many thanks for recommending that thread that called out the fusible link setup as a possible issue.