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- #81
Still a work in progress... The Driver side will have much more room.
Overdue Build Thread - Fj60 5.3 swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ6T
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- Thread starter
- #82
Resized and clearanced for latch
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- #83
Finally wrapped up my dual battery setup. Driver's side bracket and fuse block mounted to the battery tray. Services the winch, Amp, RedArc, and rear ARB twin compressor.
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- Thread starter
- #84
Passenger side has the aux battery and RedArc BCDC1225. Its powering an SPOD bantam in the rear cargo panel.
Nice work! Who made your A/C hoses?
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- #86
My AC system came with hose and an assortment of fittings. I cut to length and had them crimped at A-1 Coupling and Hose in Tualatin.
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- #87
Weekend 3D printing project. I made this housing for the a Rigid A Series light that uses the factory switch and plugs.
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- #88
Another 3D printing project... The factory radio bezel. A few more tweaks and Ill have it.
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- #89
Thanks! Mine won't have the standard cutout because of the dimensions of the Alpine Halo9. Now That I have the fit dialed I can extrude the opening for that specific head unit. I'll likely have to figure out some reproduction of the brackets that bolt to the underside of the dash as well. Got a line on those?
Edit: Wrong link, corrected below
You can adjust how far in/out the radio sits with the included spacers and the extended channels on the adjustment rail
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- #91
Ha! I actually bought that about a week ago. Solid product but it wont work by itself with the unit I have. I plan to use it with whatever metal solution I come up with. Thanks for the link.You can adjust how far in/out the radio sits with the included spacers and the extended channels on the adjustment railThis item is unavailable - Etsy
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- #93
I knew what you meant... I installed it today and added a rear support strap. Reprinted the bezel in polycarb to resist the UV and heat.
Love the set-up! I am getting ready to fit a set of Method 314's to my FJ60 in the next few weeks. Do you have any images of how you fit the center caps? I have a set that I'd love to use on mine. Also you mentioned opening the bore to 106 did that work? I have read that the hub bore needs to be 106.1? Would love to hear from you since you have done this. Thank you
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- #95
Thanks! I dont have pics of the center caps off but they arent modified much. If I recall I started bending the spokes/tynes that grip the inside of the rim until it was a tight fit. I thought about having a groove machined inside of the rim when it was center bored but they already do not come off easily. I didnt do the machining myself. I took them to a wheel specialty shop around portland and told them to punch it out to 106. I can only assume thats what they did. The 701 offset doesn't work with the 60 so I am running a 1 1/4" spydertrax adapter/spacer and havent placed the rim directly on the hub. However, they bored the rim and spacer while bolted together and it fits perfectly. I've had no issue with the setup.
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- #96
I'm not sure if these are still available but I definitely needed them. If you hate rattles you probably need them too. It's the bushing that goes in the 60/62 rear seatback pivot point. These combined with the @CruiserTrash rubber bump stops for the latch and the back seat is "almost" rattle free. I can provide the .stl if anyone wants to print their own.
I really like your build. It’s well put together and very clean. Is that a Mosley rear seat or just a local custom interior match? I have bmw seats set in my 60. I am thinking about a black recover.
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- #98
Thank you. That’s a stock seat that I had reupholstered. I had them match the pattern of the Scheelman front seats.
Funny. I’ve gone full rebuild in mine. Just powder coated the seat frames and cnc machined latches for the rear seat. I just listed them for sale to forum members.
I ended up with the lseats.com leather kit.
I would also love that file so i can print the pivot brackets. Did you use carbon filament?
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- #100
I think I used black polycarbonate. I do have a Carbon Fiber infused polycarbonate filament I use for parts that are visible but the sheen/smooth finish of the standard PC seems to work well for the friction parts.
I’ll attach the STL files here when I get home.
Link to the latches?