Order of Operations

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Rackety

Rackety

Joined
Jan 12, 2025
Threads
7
Messages
46
Location
Alaska
I recently acquired a project. It's a 1982 BJ45, which was disassembled and mostly stored inside for the last decade or so. The tub and chassis (minus the diffs) were left out in the weather. I'm going to be putting it all back together.

Not all of the original is there, and I have some duplicates of some body parts. I've currently got an H42 transmission but no engine or bell housing. I'm mulling that one over. There's a 3B available, I have an old 2H that needs work, could probably find a 2F, or maybe a swap. I'd like to stay diesel (TDI, perhaps?).

This is my second 40-series. I found the last one in bad shape, got it running, and sold it without doing anything to it cosmetically. This one - especially the tub - needs a lot of body work, which I've not done before.

So my question for the expertise here: what's the order of operations? I'm planning on wheeling the chassis into my garage shortly now that the snows have again come to Alaska. I'm thinking to begin I'll:
1. install the differentials, which are currently sitting in 2 five-gallon buckets, replacing gaskets and seals
2. strip and repaint frame

After this, not so sure. The tub is just loosely sitting on the chassis, so I'll probably leave it outside for now. But what to do next? Brakes and brake lines? I could get the transmission on the cross-member but since I don't have an engine I'm not sure that's helpful. I also almost certainly don't have the correct length drivelines. Should I shift to body work? Really my main concern is that I don't miss something and then have to start disassembling. As the fall and winter progress, I'll be actively seeking an engine, but not sure if I should wait until the tub is on before I start fitting it.

Anyway, if it's not obvious from this post I'm not hugely experienced mechanically. Any guidance appreciated.

Thanks,

Rackety

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Oh boy. That means stripping it down, cleaning, repairing any issues then reassembling with replated or new hardware (or use old hardware as-is, not sure how picky of a person you are), brake lines, etc. Then hang leaf springs, rebuild axles, driveshafts and preparing to rebuild and reinstall engine, trans, transfer case.

Download the service manuals so you understand what you are taking on. These trucks are about the easiest vehicles to restore, so take your time and learn how to do it right. You likely are missing a lot, so I'd recommend mocking up the entire frame/drivetrain to see what is missing. If you aren't sure truly how to start, please read other folks build threads to get an idea of how to get started.

Partsouq, amayama, Toyodiy, etc are your friend to learn each subassembly and see what you need to assemble the truck.
 
Rackety said:
Any guidance appreciated.
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One of the best LandCruiser mechanics in the world has a shop in Wasilla. Might be worth your time to get in touch with Mr. Whatley...
 
I never met Mark but he's pretty controversial locally. He's MIA and there are a lot of furious owners trying to get their vehicles back - his shop has been locked up for over a year and the grass out front is 4 feet high. People have been pretty open about their law suits on the local LC FB page. Pretty sad, wish he was around.
 
Rackety said:
I never met Mark but he's pretty controversial locally. He's MIA and there are a lot of furious owners trying to get their vehicles back - his shop has been locked up for over a year and the grass out front is 4 feet high. People have been pretty open about their law suits on the local LC FB page. Pretty sad, wish he was around.
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Wow. I had no idea...
 
When I was starting my rebuild I ask a friend with experience he said to get it rolling first then work on the rest.
So I started the rear axle and converted a FJ60 axle to FF, then tore down the front axle and rebuilt that and worked toward getting it to the point I could get the weight on the tires.

Got it prepped for my R2.8, PS and H55F with split transfer case.
 
Free manuals download. Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
I use SOR.com for pic's and application years. Their prices are high and so is their shipping - but they are good people

The best penetrating oil is KROIL. Heat is good - oxyacetylene. Perhaps one of those induction heater coils.
A good metric tap and dye set will be handy. Anchor Lube is my drilling/tapping juice. Metric drills. Mostly I just use the chart and one of my fractional/lettered/numbered drill index's to get close enough.

Automatic center punches are handy for marking the center for drilling out broken bolts. Practice on some scrap stuff. Mark, drill with a really small "good" bit to get a good place for the larger correct size bit to start. EZ outs can work or make it much worse.

Check youtube lots of vids, for R/R parts, rebuilding stuff like knuckles
 
Is your H42 for a F/H engine or B? That may help you decide the derection you want to go with the drive train at least. Personally, I think the H55 is the best money you'll ever spend, but toyota no longer makes them to fit the B diesel.

I agree with the above: build the rolling chassis first, but get that tub out of the elements.

If it were me, I'd look long and hard for a 13bt/h55 combo out of Japan. It'll bolt right in, give you a modem diesel and keep it simple if you get a mechanically injected 13bt.
 
Rackety
If your pockets are deep enough, you possess extreme patience and you are single or your wife is really forgiving then you are in a perfect position to build an incredible Landcruiser. Mattressking gave you a simple example of how to build from the ground up. Buy new or restore every part as you go. It will cost more and take longer than you can ever imagine but it will look incredible from day one. There are lots of threads here where guys have done just what you are doing to keep you motivated. You have bitten off a huge project so just lay out a plan one small job at a time and take one bite at a time. Most importantly turn this into a build thread so we can follow along.
 
70fj40 said:
Rackety
If your pockets are deep enough, you possess extreme patience and you are single or your wife is really forgiving then you are in a perfect position to build an incredible Landcruiser. Mattressking gave you a simple example of how to build from the ground up. Buy new or restore every part as you go. It will cost more and take longer than you can ever imagine but it will look incredible from day one. There are lots of threads here where guys have done just what you are doing to keep you motivated. You have bitten off a huge project so just lay out a plan one small job at a time and take one bite at a time. Most importantly turn this into a build thread so we can follow along.
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Patience: yes
SIngle: no
Wife: tough cookie
But...I'm no stranger to large projects. I've built 5 wooden boats, recently finished a mobile sauna and basically DIY everything. Just getting into cruisers over the past year or so though, so still a LOT I don't know.
If I'm being perfectly honest I would prefer to spend time and money on this rig being mechanically sound vs it looking good. I play kind of hard in Alaska and do not want to stress about driving through brush and low trees, creeks, etc. The thing will be full of dogs and kids and dead cervids and live a hard life.
 
The facts are what you are starting with, to get a mechanically good rig you will need to redo everything anyway. Better to spend all your money on everything except the body.
Then leave the body a little rough if you want to beat it around a bit.
 
My 2 cents - set tub off, get frame, suspension, axles set. That means, clean paint do what you want to frame, get the fuel & brake lines back in place, wiring, springs and axles, set the tub. I would bring tub in and work the underside, mounts, rust, etc so when its set your not working upside down. The engine, trans, tcase are not hard to set especially with front end apart, assemble bib, aprons, fenders & hood after engine is home & all tidy up. Shocks, steering, dlines, finish wiring, all last. When working the frame dont forget to add fuel, vent, & additional wiring if applicable, makes it real nice when tub is set if thinhgs are stubbed & ready. IMO this requires the least new stuff to get the tub back on and moving forward considering you mentioned snow, frame first, tub outside, even if you can stand tub on end and start preping bottom it's a time saver as opposed to putting tub outside until spring.
 
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