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I need a home safe to store estate docs, car titles, birth certificates, etc. I’m wanting something where the documents would survive should the house catch fire.

I’ve found a number of interesting models. A keyed lock seems overly simplistic. One with a biometric and/or electronic lock seems likely to have issues if batteries leak acid or there is a fire.

I saw one review where the safe’s instructions said the safe had to be left open 30 minutes each week.

As large and diverse as this group is, I figure at least one member has already extensively researched and can make an informed recommendation. I welcome any and all assistance.
What is your primary objective with this safe? Preventing things from getting burnt?

Nearly all home fire safes can be opened with a circular saw, their function is just to keep the documents dry and not on fire.
 
I need a home safe to store estate docs, car titles, birth certificates, etc. I’m wanting something where the documents would survive should the house catch fire.

I’ve found a number of interesting models. A keyed lock seems overly simplistic. One with a biometric and/or electronic lock seems likely to have issues if batteries leak acid or there is a fire.

I saw one review where the safe’s instructions said the safe had to be left open 30 minutes each week.

As large and diverse as this group is, I figure at least one member has already extensively researched and can make an informed recommendation. I welcome any and all assistance.
I went through the same process a few years ago and after a fair amount of research I went with a Liberty Safe, Revolution series.
From what I remember, they make safes for others to private label.
As I recall the specs were excellent and they have many different sizes, configurations, and are customizable on the inside, particularly in regard to gub storage. They also have provisions in the floor of the safe for the ability to bolt it to the floor in your home for added security.
I searched around for a local dealer so I could see one in person before ordering and there is a security company in Concord that also sells Liberty Safes. So I was able to see several different options and quality but they didn't have the size I wanted in stock. I ended up buying a used on Craigslist.

In regard to the locking mechanism, I just went with the good ole fashioned combination lock. No key to lose, no batteries, KISS.
If a thief wants something of yours they will find a way to get it.
 
What is your primary objective with this safe? Preventing things from getting burnt?

Nearly all home fire safes can be opened with a circular saw, their function is just to keep the documents dry and not on fire.
I want to store documents at home safely, from fire and theft. I've kept these docs in a safe deposit box for years but during COVID I realized how inconvenient that is.
 
I'd suggest getting a model that's designed to be bolted to the house from the inside, or large enough that one/two people can't carry it. It's one thing if the would be thief can't get into the safe at your house, but if they can carry the whole thing away, then it's not super secure.
 
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In regard to the locking mechanism, I just went with the good ole fashioned combination lock. No key to lose, no batteries, KISS......

I agree - this will be my next purchase - combo lock - over the years I am like where did I hide the key to the safe..... ahahaha, but agree.
 
Start accumulating gubs and ammo and it will make the safe so heavy it can't go anywhere!

Enablement Activated!
 
I rarely post here- but wanted to share how excited my son and I are to be meeting you all at the relic run.
We drove the 40 out to a car show about 45 min away saturday and it did great.

I have been chasing down a ton of little issues with it, but it seems like I am gaining on it at this point.
Short story- was fouling plugs badly in the SBC in my truck. No matter what I did, how I timed it- how I jetted down the carb....etc. Like 3 miles, plugs junk. Tried everything. Rebuilt heads. New carb. Pressure regulator...everything.

Turns out the new knockoff HEI was not working right- so I changed out to an MSD and a different intake and it seems like it is good now.

Found a bunch of metal shavings in my pan fixing a leak, but we are going to make the run and give it hell until it either gets us home or blows up trying.

Looking forward to it.
 
I rarely post here- but wanted to share how excited my son and I are to be meeting you all at the relic run.
We drove the 40 out to a car show about 45 min away saturday and it did great.

I have been chasing down a ton of little issues with it, but it seems like I am gaining on it at this point.
Short story- was fouling plugs badly in the SBC in my truck. No matter what I did, how I timed it- how I jetted down the carb....etc. Like 3 miles, plugs junk. Tried everything. Rebuilt heads. New carb. Pressure regulator...everything.

Turns out the new knockoff HEI was not working right- so I changed out to an MSD and a different intake and it seems like it is good now.

Found a bunch of metal shavings in my pan fixing a leak, but we are going to make the run and give it hell until it either gets us home or blows up trying.

Looking forward to it.
also- this will be his second time driving stick at all- so I apologize in advance for him stalling it 900 times on the trail.
Should have left the SM420 in it...would have been easier for him.
 
Anyone else going to Rubithon this year.
I should be registering in the next week.
I am doing the original wagon run with the Pryor family. Starting on the Monday before the event.
 
I should be registering in the next week.
I am doing the original wagon run with the Pryor family. Starting on the Monday before the event.
Sweet. I am also part of that run. I am part of the committee this year.
 

$37k for a 3 cylinder. Very cool car.
 
@FJinTegaCay I also went with a Liberty with the old school rotary dial combination lock. Made in USA last I checked and there are several different fire ratings and security levels. My ”documents” definitely weight down the safe and through bolts help too. Opening up the safe is not necessary if you get the pass through Golden Rod plug in desiccant what-cha-call-it. We no longer have a dealer close but I have been happy with the product.
 
When hitting it at jeep speed doesn't work I guess you must hit the jeep at cruiser speed.

 
Never wanted to kick someone in the nutz more...... this added 6 hours to my drive.

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I want to store documents at home safely, from fire and theft. I've kept these docs in a safe deposit box for years but during COVID I realized how inconvenient that is.

May not be what you need, but I have a "classic" safe at the house that is HEAVY and with like 4" steel walls. Came with the house. Dial opening works perfect, but is in "OK" shape on the outside. Would be a cool project to refurb. Needs a new handle, and exterior touch up. Can get you pics if interested. I was going to sand/wire brush and paint with like POR15. Inside is in great shape. Pick up = free; Help moving = $300 LOL (kidding)

 
May not be what you need, but I have a "classic" safe at the house that is HEAVY and with like 4" steel walls. Came with the house. Dial opening works perfect, but is in "OK" shape on the outside. Would be a cool project to refurb. Needs a new handle, and exterior touch up. Can get you pics if interested. I was going to sand/wire brush and paint with like POR15. Inside is in great shape. Pick up = free; Help moving = $300 LOL (kidding)

Thanks! Sounds super cool and like a project I would enjoy. I'm interested, but can't think of when I could get it from you. PM me measurements and a pic or two if/when you can.
 
Anyone have any first hand experience with 1st gen Chevy Volts?

We are seriously considering one. With me working from home most of the time and Andrea's commuted just 5 miles each way to the train station this thing would mean during a regular work week, even if I go into the office once or twice we would at most use 1 gallon of gas. This thing is pure electric for 40 miles and then switches to gas assist and gets around 45 mpg after that.
The cost to charge it overnigt from completely drained would be right at $1 according to some online calculators i've used with my address and current electricity prices. So it makes sense for us. Any driving I do for work outside of the office is reimbursed at .545 cents a mile anyway which means i'll most likely drive the cruiser for that stuff once I get it here.

All consumer reports show top scores in reliability and even after 10 years the first year model shows next to zero battery degradation due to how chevy designed the cooling system for the batteries. Simply put the batteries hold up a lot better than ones in the Prius or Nissan Leaf.


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