OME BP51 or ICON Stage 2

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I've heard some folks say that the basic OME kit is quite stiff. I have no direct experience.

That depends of what springs you choose. They likely added springs that were too stout for their rig’s weight. Many springs to choose from.

Also... “Too stiff” is an entirely subjective thing.

(Ya I know...let the Freudian comments commence!! Lol)
 
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Stiffer would be better. I think stock is too soft.

The worst thing about stock besides being too cushy (IMHO) is they bounce all over the place. Any upgrade will improve that.
 
How would OME with the right spring rates vs BP51s with the right pre load and spring rates compare?
Not sure. I don't have BP51s installed right now. I just ordered Kings with 700lbs front springs so if u wanna remind me in octorber, I can let u know lol.
So far, the OMEs are pretty comfortable. My family and friends don't complain about the ride.
 
How would OME with the right spring rates vs BP51s with the right pre load and spring rates compare?

I believe the main difference is how the BPs handle the BIG hits at higher speed. Rather than simply banging harder on the same single oil path, the bypass system in the BPs have another path for the oil when massive hits happen. This lets the shock handle big hits more easily than a shock with a single compression path.
 
Not sure. I don't have BP51s installed right now. I just ordered Kings with 700lbs front springs so if u wanna remind me in octorber, I can let u know lol.
So far, the OMEs are pretty comfortable. My family and friends don't complain about the ride.

Hey @dwai ill make sure to remind you ;) why have u decided to upgrade to the Kings?

I believe the main difference is how the BPs handle the BIG hits at higher speed. Rather than simply banging harder on the same single oil path, the bypass system in the BPs have another path for the oil when massive hits happen. This lets the shock handle big hits more easily than a shock with a single compression path.

Thank you for your insights on this. My rig is mostly going to be my DD so I’m not sure if I will benefit from this. I just like the ability to adjust the compression and rebound vs the non adjustable OMEs
 
Hey @dwai ill make sure to remind you ;) why have u decided to upgrade to the Kings?



Thank you for your insights on this. My rig is mostly going to be my DD so I’m not sure if I will benefit from this. I just like the ability to adjust the compression and rebound vs the non adjustable OMEs

If you just want a more controlled ride on road, then I’d skip the cost of BPs and going with standard OME. Just make sure you choose a spring appropriate for your vehicle’s weight. Talk to Slee or Cruiser Outfitters. They can help you figure out which to go with for your needs.
 
I figured I’d go with 2702 coils (2” lift and stock weight) up front and 2722 (3/4” lift and stock weight) in the rear. I’m trying to get A leveled ride.
 
I figured I’d go with 2702 coils (2” lift and stock weight) up front and 2722 (3/4” lift and stock weight) in the rear. I’m trying to get A leveled ride.

Sounds reasonable to me.
 
I’ll measure the height difference between front and rear to try to get as level as possible. There is a 2721 rear coil that provides no lift and is rated for stock weight.
 
I’ll measure the height difference between front and rear to try to get as level as possible. There is a 2721 rear coil that provides no lift and is rated for stock weight.

The 2721 might specify “no lift” but don’t believe it. It definitely adds lift, and usually more than the 2722. I had both the 22 and 21 on my rig with minutes of each other and I kept the 21 at the time. It actually sat higher than the 22.

The other difference is that the 2721 is a progressive spring where the 2722 is not. This means the spring rate changes as it compresses on the 21.

I don’t know why ARB/OME lists springs as having less lift than they actually add...but my pet theory is that it has (or had) to do with Australian lift laws that restrict(ed) how much you are allowed to add.
 
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The 2721 might specify “no lift” but don’t believe it. It definitely adds lift, and usually more than the 2622. I had both the 22 and 21 on my rig with minutes of each other and I kept the 21 at the time. It actually sat higher than the 22.

The other difference is that the 2721 is a progressive spring where the 2722 is not. This means the spring rate changes as it compresses on the 21.

I don’t know why ARB/OME lists springs as having less lift than they actually add...but my pet theory is that it has (or had) to do with Australian lift laws that restrict(ed) how much you are allowed to add.

This is very helpful insight. I am looking to add as little rear lift as possible in an effort to achieve a level ride. On my F150 I added 2.5” strut spacers in front and left the rear stock and that brought it to a leveled stance.
 
This is very helpful insight. I am looking to add as little rear lift as possible in an effort to achieve a level ride. On my F150 I added 2.5” strut spacers in front and left the rear stock and that brought it to a leveled stance.

If you intend to wheel the truck, just remember that as you lift the front end higher, you are giving away limited down travel because of limitation of your CV joints. This is why I don’t mind my own truck looking a little stink bugged. As you push your truck up in front, you extend your CVs downward. That downward movement that will not be available when you encounter holes or dips. Not saying don’t level it...just that there are trade-offs.
 
If you intend to wheel the truck, just remember that as you lift the front end higher, you are giving away limited down travel because of limitation of your CV joints. This is why I don’t mind my own truck looking a little stink bugged. As you push your truck up in front, you extend your CVs downward. That downward movement that will not be available when you encounter holes or dips. Not saying don’t level it...just that there are trade-offs.

Good point. I understand that leveling the vehicle takes up some of the vertical travel of the CV joint up front. But we will be on road most of the time and when off road, it won’t be extreme.
 
One last thing: is this a DIY job? Can I get it done with a couple of stands, a jack and standard tools? Never worked on a car with KDSS...
 
I know Icon’s have to be rebuilt periodically (I think around 50,000 miles?), does the same hold true for BP-51s? I’m looking into options for my 2016 and the maintenance aspect is the biggest thing holding me back from one of these setups vs a simpler Tough Dog or OME kit.
 
That sounds very promising. I'll call CO as soon as get back to the U.S. and order with their recommendation for spring rates.

I ran it on my 100 and I run it on my 200. I tow a very heavy trailer over the mountain passes and have no issues with it. I didnt see the value (to me) spending an extra $2K for an adjustable setup for what I do with my truck.

I am sure the BP51's and Icons give a better ride and their adjustability provides greater options. I am a set it and forget it type of guy so that wasn't a driver for me. This is one of those personal choice things.

2.5 years on the standard OME heavy setup on my 200 and still happy with the choice

I also prefer to have some rake with the back end a little higher. Then when loaded or towing it doesnt rake the other way :)
 
For your reading pleasure:
50,000+ miles on Icons

Thank you, some great info in that thread! Pulling the front coil overs is a little outside my comfort zone meaning I’d have a shop do it - the rebuild cost isn’t bad from Icon but labor for removing and re-installing the suspension every 50k miles plus the rig down time makes this a less desirable option for me. If I felt comfortable doing the work in my garage it would be a completely different story.

BP-51s are relatively new so probably not a lot of guys rebuilding them yet but do you know if that’s something that needs to be done at a similar mileage as the Icons?
 
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