Builds Olive the 71 FJ40 build

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Got the bonnet and side steps prepared for a coat of green, set up a make shift booth with plastic drop sheets and sprayed on the green goodness. Turned out alright for a mechanic.

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On the way home from work l picked up my freshly powder coated rims and organised some new 255/85/16 Yokohama G003 MT tyres to be fitted. After inspecting the powder coat on the rims l found one had a blemish and l had to take it back to get repaired, could see some zinc primer through the black powder coat still🙄.
So got 4 tyres fitted up and very happy with how they look

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Did some size comparisons to the tyres l have, first one is a 33 x 12.5 x 15 maxxis big horn. Yokohamas are 32.5” (825mm) overall height, have a 200mm wide tread contact vs 235-240mm wide maxxis and 40mm smaller height.
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Then compared against my HJ47 ute wheels which are 225/95/16 Bridgestone AT’s, the Yokohamas are again bigger but only by roughly an inch (25mm) but wider than the Bridgestone that only have 165mm tread contact and slightly bulge at the sidewall maybe due to the 7” rims.
The G003 sit very nice on the 16 x 6” rims👍
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Had to drop the 5th wheel back at the powdercoaters to get a section redone. Then when fitting the wheels l noticed the section between the rim and centre didn’t have the powder coating in the gap, will be asking the guy about it but not sure if that is normal but either way l will treat and seal the gap to prevent future corrosion in that spot. Anyone got experience with powder coating?

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So picked up the 5th rim and had the tyre fitted, rim is much better and has the powder more in the gap. He reckons it’s hard to get the powder coat down the gap and he usually runs a bead of sealer in them but didn’t on line for some reason. Hard to get help🙄 so l will be putting a bead of black sikaflex in there myself. I was told if the part is not earthed correctly this can cause it, not a good start for my first powder coating experience.
Got some D rubber for the half door seals, it was a bitch to get the backing off the sticky side but l preserved and installed the seals, also glued the ends to prevent any water or crap getting in.

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My steering column is the standard 71 modified to suit 60 series steering with a lower bearing for support. I also added a bearing to the top section as the original bush was worn and is no longer available. It had some slight movement as it’s not exactly the right measurements. After looking for a bearing that did have the correct size it seems it doesn’t exsist. So l used an old shackle bush trimmed to suit to support the shaft inside the tube, perfect fit and no movement👍
There’s a shaft lock collar under the bearing and a circlip on top and under the bush to keep it located
Here’s the well lubed set up

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Made some new rubbers for the bonnet hinges and fitted. Put the bonnet on and started to align it, seems like the drivers guard wants to keep pulling into the body where the upper guard meets the bonnet. Still need to fit the rubber windscreen mounts but starting to look finished😊
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Put the bonnet on and started to align it, seems like the drivers guard wants to keep pulling into the body where the upper guard meets the bonnet.

We usually sacrifice a chicken under a full moon before attempting body panel alignment. Doesn’t always work but at least you have something for the Barbie. 😉
 
After a few runs around the block l found it has a flat spot on acceleration. So pulled the carb and started to clean it out and look for issues. I am using a keystone kit as recommended by many people, l replaced the jets with the same size new ones that l removed. I am trying to find the best combination of jet size for an F carb on a 2F.
I started a new post
Looks like there are many sizes combos depending on year models, mine is a 1970, 12 month build.

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Rebuilt the carb and after some research and feed back l ended up with
Primary main 1.2mm ( saw some info about a larger 1.4mm but will see how the 1.2 goes)
Secondary main 2mm
P/S idle jets 0.5mm
Power jet 0.9mm
Had an issue with the idle and found l had the lower gasket for the base on the wrong way so corrected that and all is good. Set the timing to 9 degrees and need to give it a good test drive and shake down.
Vacuum is also reading good at just under 21”
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Cleaning up the wiring and connectors, replaced the resisted coil with a 12v version for the electronic distributor to fix a hesitantion problem under full throttle. Hopefully that sorts it as l don’t want to go back into the carb again. Also changed the fuel filter.
Still playing around with the alignment of the front guards etc l noticed the front larger body mounts looked sagged. Would anyone have the heights or thickness of new mounts?
Might try to make some thicker ones to see if it helps the alignment, no sacrifices to the Toyota gods have been made yet @Chungas Revenge 😂

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Looks very nice your rig! What rims do you have? I think i copy your tire rim setup :)

Nice setup with the 5 gear transmission. I would love that too but i have no idea if its allowed where im from and who to ask. Very much enjoy following your project!
 
Thanks for the compliments l am very happy with the way it turned out. I spent a lot of time looking at wheel and tyre combos and settled for the no flare look with 33” tyres. The wheels are 16x6 wagon wheels that come on the later 40, 60 and 70 series, not as common here in Australia. Split rims were more common on the 40 series utes for the farmers.
 
Think l found the geniune part number, all the other mounts are no longer available.
Anyone use daystar or energy suspension kits? Only need the two but might be worth doing them all🤷🏻‍♂️ Have to find a local supplier which might be an issue.
Picture of new mounts

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Think l found the geniune part number, all the other mounts are no longer available.
Anyone use daystar or energy suspension kits? Only need the two but might be worth doing them all🤷🏻‍♂️ Have to find a local supplier which might be an issue.
Picture of new mounts

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Well worth upgrading to either Energy Suspension or Daystar poly body mounts-won't harden with time like the OEM rubber mounts. (ES uses SAE bolts vs Daystar using metric hardware but both come with new hardware). It's not hard to install new ones either, maybe an hour total.
 
@firemanj92 did you notice more vibration and harshness going from the rubber to poly body mounts?
Thinking the rubber has lasted this long maybe get the two new front mounts and replace the others with some 9mm conveyer rubber l have here🤔
No, the poly's are a lot smoother and softer riding than OEM rubber-they won't harden like rubber either. I would easily say it was one of the best upgrades I've done and have noticed over the worn out 54 year old mounts.

Anyone have an Energy Suspension body mount kit installed? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anyone-have-an-energy-suspension-body-mount-kit-installed.929435/
 
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