OK, going to do timing chain. Easiest way to lower front dif?

[KLF]

I honestly don't remember having that much trouble reaching the 4 mount bolts, and I know I did this on my truck before I installed my 1" body lift. Do you have GearWrenches? If not, this is an excuse to get some. Maybe removing the wheels would help, and ya there's a little access panel on the passenger side that you can take out, it will help some.

Once I got those bolts out, I put a 2x4 on the jack, and positioned it so it was lifting the engine from the very front of the pan, at the block surface, but not by the crank pulley. I lifted until I could see that I was starting to lift up the truck, then I shoved a scrap of 2x4 in the gap at each mount. I've since done this a couple more times, it's worked fine.

There's no way you have to pull the engine out to do the TC, that guy is nuts.

 

[bkg]

I've never dropped the pan... ever...

Never raised the engine, either.

Just loosen the pan enough to drop the front about 1" and you're good to go.

 

[Jukelemon]

I've never dropped the pan... ever...

Never raised the engine, either.

Just loosen the pan enough to drop the front about 1" and you're good to go.

Sorry, I don't see how 1" is going to help you. What do you with 1"?

Thanks all

 

[locknload]

I had to lower mine more than one inch (my hand is thicker than an inch), I lowered the front of the pan just enough to get my hand in there to remove pieces of the guide. Like I said above, I just lowered the steering. That's all I needed.

My pans bolts were all removed but the pan stayed under the truck, I just dropped the front as much as it would go. Keep in mind the only reason you're 'dropping' the pan is to clean our the debris. Don't do more work than you have to

 

[Jukelemon]

OK, thanks all.

I am just going to get in there and see what I see.

Juke

 

[Jukelemon]

Well, got most of everything removed in the bay and the water pump is off. Waiting for parts at this point.

0 issues with the water pump. It is original and at 175k miles but far from at the point of no return. It will be replaced though.

0 issues with Timing Chain minus a small broken piece of the guide. Chain is very tight and everything else is fine. So I imagine i am going to just dropt he pan a little and fish for it at the front.

So far, a very straight forward, easy job. The worst so far......my PS pump adjusting pulley's bolt snapped so i have to get another. It was flat out frozen in the adjuster.

Might as well do the valves while I am in there and clean the throttle intake. All belts were fine minus the alt. belt.

So, I imagine this will be a good 10 hour job-most of my time today was with kids at home and wife at work so not very focused and I am just taking my timr admiring the engineering.. Total will be around 150.00 to inlclude new OEM H2O pump, belt and adjuster bolt. Not too bad.

 

[Hilux]

Dang I musta stayed up to late last night, I thought I posted this here?

After an exhaustive title search and death threats to the PO I got the 20R head from.....


Please do yourself a favor and get you about 4 feet of threaded rod.

I just probably broke BOTH the T-stat bolts off in the only 20R intake in the state , result? wont ever happen again!

tomorrow I'm going to Lowes, get me some rod(threaded rod you schmucks!), some locktight and some of those washered bolts that wont sink into the socket, and by golly I'm stud'n her out! THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN.

Every engine I ever tear down from this point on, stud's will go back in their place.


Like this,

 

[Hilux]

0 issues with Timing Chain minus a small broken piece of the guide. Chain is very tight and everything else is fine. So I imagine i am going to just dropt he pan a little and fish for it at the front.

Careful fishing, some times they're sharp and may cause you to get cut, I wouldn't want oil to get in my blood steam.

The worst so far......my PS pump adjusting pulley's bolt snapped so i have to get another. It was flat out frozen in the adjuster.

:whoops: Did you loosen the bolt that holds the pully?

 

[Jukelemon]

Careful fishing, some times they're sharp and may cause you to get cut, I wouldn't want oil to get in my blood steam.






:whoops: Did you loosen the bolt that holds the pully?

Yeah. I did. The threads were frozen. When I tried to remove the remaining thread, that snapped too!

 

[KLF]

tomorrow I'm going to Lowes, get me some rod(threaded rod you schmucks!), some locktight and some of those washered bolts that wont sink into the socket, and by golly I'm stud'n her out! THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN.

Lowe's doesn't carry metric all-thread. At least none of the one's I've ever been in have.

Drill and tap out the busted parts, put anti-sieze on the new bolts, no more problems.

 

[bkg]

Sorry, I don't see how 1" is going to help you. What do you with 1"?

Thanks all

That's all ya need!! You just need enough room to wiggle the front cover off and back on. I think I've only done 1 out of about 6 or 8 with the ban completely off, and that was only because the engine was out for a rebuild.

Just sharing my experiences.

 

[Jukelemon]

I follow you. I thought you meant you were cleaning it out with 1" !

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

When I did mine, I did not remove the head or the pan, and it's a real pain to get the timing cover to seal up right cause when you slide it back in it scrapes all the sealant off... So I have a slight weeping oil leak down there....