Oil Pump Leaking - Post TB Service?

[cruiserpatch]

Thanks! Any tips as to how far I would need to go to get the diff out? I'm guessing the wheel hubs will have to come off the spindle. Possibly remove IFS as well? I couldn't find anything on youtube about how to remove the entire front diff.

Disconnect upper ball joints on both sides (one at a time is probably easiest) and remove both CV axles. Easiest method is to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, pop out inner joint first then slip the axle down through the LCA.

Once the axles are out you can unbolt the front diff and drop it. Drain the oil before doing so

 

[2001LC]

Alternatively. Pull the engine. Place on engine stand, roll upside down. This way you can get very best seal of both oil pans. Also makes easy, replacing engine mounts and water hose block to oil cooler. Even doing a starter or other service under intake manifold easier.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Alternatively. Pull the engine. Place on engine stand, roll upside down. This way you can get very best seal of both oil pans. Also makes easy, replacing engine mounts and water hose block to oil cooler. Even doing a starter or other service under intake manifold easier.

If I was doing this again I would pull the motor FWIW

Rear mains are old enough on 100s now that they need to be replaced

 

[menancyandsam]

How does this look. Worth a oil pump job or send it as is?

 

[2001LC]

I would not R&R that oil pump O-ring.

I "May", do a 2 can BG's EPR engine oil flush. Followed by 10 oz of AT-205 in the fresh oil.

Oil pump O-ring weep. Over time, weep build up a bit of oil around them. I'd say yours, looks about normal for 21 year old ~180K plus miles.

1. I would, make sure crank seal looks good. I would NOT replace it, unless leaking. Same for cam seals, which your cams look dry under them.
2. I would clean entire area, including t-belt covers, once belt and pullies off. Then watch for leaks over next 90K miles/10 yr. Then see how much accumulates, at next T-belt service.
3. I would make sure T-belt tensioner pulley bolt threads, are sealed. I use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 (oil). You can also seal, T-belt idler pulley bolts threads. Which some years FSM, recommends.

Warning:
If using 2005 FSM. Torque spec on Vane (power steering pump) 3 mounting bolts, is 13ft-lbf. Not he 53ft-lbf, seen in one page of FSM.