Oil Pan Removal Mod (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
213
Location
New Mexico.....close to Colorado as I can
So a couple weeks ago I did my oil pan gaskets and came to find out that my front cover is leaking as well. To remove said front cover means taking the oil pans back off! Well the first time I did this I ended up with the same issue everyone has....that damn welded in track arm. Because that one bar was in the way I lost many hours to lifting the engine. So yesterday, my older brother and I became bored and hence forth came the adventure of the removadble track arm.
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The circled part is what I am talking about. Also the red line is the track arm, panhard is removed and blue line is tie rod/adjustment bar.
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And...
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So first we start with all great adventures...the cutting. Grinder to the bracket welded in passenger side and jigsaw to the driver side on the inside of where its mounted.
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Make sure you get some extra blades cause that metal is thick and tough! Next was the grinding.
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So my wife saw this and freaked out thinking the old "Puddle Destroyer" wasn't going to be drivable anytime soon. So making a promise I hoped I could keep, I told her it would drive tomorrow, and our deadline was set.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
213
Location
New Mexico.....close to Colorado as I can
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Next we decided that we needed a strong enough bolt to hold the bar in place through its mount so what better then a Grade 8,1inch bolt and 33mm nut! So with some trimming of the bolt, cutting off the head we can fit it into the OEM pipe and weld it in. Before we weld we have to open the existing mount hole to fit this beast.
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This job is not for the faint of heart and this was the most tedious part. One person had to hold the drill with 1 inch bit and drill through. The other person had to spray cutting oil onto the bit to keep it from dulling out. Thinking since the inside of the pipe was gone it would make this a simple job showed...us we were beyond wrong. It took 30 minutes and a couple breaks but finally we made it through.
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Here we have the bolt trimmed, fitted and ready to go. The black line on the bolt is where we can't put welds past so that gap we will be filling to guarantee a sturdy hold but my brother, being the perfectionist he is decided that he wanted more. So he took the OEM pipe drill press and added those 12 holes so he can add spot welds to increase strength.
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Had to ground down the existing bracket
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
213
Location
New Mexico.....close to Colorado as I can
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Make sure to wear your PPE as these are weird angles and discs get stuck and at that RPM they don't stop!
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Lucky for me I was wearing my gloves and only got this nice little welt
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Another thing is make sure you don't dig too far like I did. Lucky for me my older brother welded some beads on to build it back up, ground it down and then the bracket will go over it.
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So this is the other end bracket but again my brother being a perfectionist of a brother he decided it wasn't "perfect" enough
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So he added a brace. He also decided he didn't want the nuts to never come off so unlike the standard 2 spot welds holding them he gave each side of the nut a full bead.
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,594
Location
Elko, NV
I cannot picture what you're doing. That's a brace for your steering box/frame/panhard. What are you doing with that threaded end? Nut on either side of the mount?

I cut that thing out and plated the hell out of my frame/box mount. :hillbilly:
 
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
104
Or, you could loosen the motor mounts, raise the engine up a couple of inches and remove the #1 oil pan. Two nuts and either a carefully placed floor jack and block of wood under the crank pulley or an engine crane seems much easier. Kuddos though for thinking outside the box!

But at the end of the day, I don't see why you are removing the #1 oil pan to reseal the timing cover.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
213
Location
New Mexico.....close to Colorado as I can
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The OEM pipe with attachment to bracket and bolt through all put together and welded well mostly. The bracket needs a "bit" more welds.
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So I had to snap this picture. My brother was "slowly" cooling down the metal after welding to keep it from warping. I thought it was funny s***. He was doing it with the straw and Wendy's cup.
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All nice and welded, cleaned, primed and painted
 
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
104
I admire your spirit and savvy, but wouldn't it be easier to loosen the engine mounts, raise the engine a couple inches and drop the oil pans? I've had the joy of resealing two oil pans, but never thought much about raising the engine to complete the job. I'm sure if I have to reseal them again, I might be admiring your method.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
213
Location
New Mexico.....close to Colorado as I can
Well doing a bit more research I found guys doing the diesel swap go this way so if one day we run out of dinosaurs to burn and have to do the diesel swap this makes me one step closer. This simple mod took me the same amount of time as it did to loosen those blasted engine mounts to loosen and retighten them. It also took me about 2-3 times that just to post up this mod. Also being a Tech I have always hated suspended parts that are held by certain points. Maybe I am just paranoid but hey this makes my work a little easier. Plus I plan on keeping this 80 and being buried in it so it makes future repairs very nice.
 
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dirtyboots

Atrocious Driving
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
528
Location
Sonoma County, CA
You said it...takes 3x as long to document the mod than actually doing it. I can barely put together a classified ad so good on you for taking the time to ad to the wealth of knowledge on this board. It's an excellent idea and well executed. Probably makes field expedient repairs on the pan safer and quicker.
 

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