Oil Leak. Is this fixable?

[VitaminC914]

I am looking at the passenger side of the engine and there is a small leak. It look like there is a side cover held together with about 15 bolts (see pic). Is there a gasket behind it that can be replaced to help minimize the oil leak? Does anyone have a part number. I found one on Ebay but they wanted $60 shipping from Australia. Does Toyota still make it? My Truck is a 74. TIA

 

[3_puppies]

pushrod cover, usually the cork gets hard and needs to be replaced after a few decades.

 

[Pighead]

You might try snugging those bolts up while you look for another gasket

Edit: Cruiser Outfitters shows that gasket for sale, $12.50

 

[Living in the Past]

You might try snugging those bolts up while you look for another gasket

If this is like the oil pan gasket the torque setting is probably pretty low. Sheet metal with thick cork gasket over tightened can distort the metal at the holes. Would caution against over tightening. If PO is trying to fix a small leak would probably wait for a new gasket. Not against snugging just understanding it doesn't mean as tight as you can. This also one of those would find the torque required and use a torque wrench.

 

[charliemeyer007]

While the plate is off, make sure its flat across the holes (instead of puckered from previous overtightening). A thin coat of a sealant on both clean mating surfaces is the ticket.

 

[77mustard40]

I did mine a few months back, lessons learned are to remove everything in your way (dizzy, oil filter etc) to gain unobstructed access. Like others have said, clean surfaces and a smear of RTV on both sides of the fresh gasket, making sure to not over torque. Re-assemble, reset the timing and enjoy.

 

[rlong]

Last 3 post are excellent (and mine just confirming), almost every one I have seen is already been over tightened (some by me!) and have dimpled the side (pushrod) cover. You will need to straighten, un-dimple some or all bolt holes. It will be obvious once off. Just a block of wood and ball peen hammer. And I agree take everything off, including the distributor, which means learning how to remove and replace distributor (easy but several required steps, particularly setting it into oil pump shaft). Traditional approach is to put engine at TDC (top dead center, to ensure it is “static timed” correctly when reset, once you fully understand however you can pull and replace the distributor at any position.. and/but if it goes wrong your just back at putting distributor back to TDC. Finally I agree a light-moderate smear of off rtv (or other sealant). I like to barely tighten, let dry overnight then torque to speck (which I do be feel and observation). THEN you need to check/set running timing once started; you should only be off by a few degrees, you might want to take a timing reading before pulling distributor if it runs well now! Then check the side I cover bolts in a week or a good handful of heat cycles, they usually take a slight bit more torque.

 

[Living in the Past]

If not mention first thing when you start the engine be sure you have oil pressure. Thirty years ago I replaced the distributor on my 9/67 for one I bought SOR. Luckily on the test drive noticed no oil pressure. Removed the distributor and compared it to the oil one. It was shorter. Returned it. Never figured out why it was shorter. But something to check when ever replacing a distributor.