Oh no loud pop!!

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Jan 13, 2016
St. Louis MO
I was wheeling over memorial day weekend and got hung up on some rocks.... I put my rig in reverse and the tires spun a little and i heard a loud pop! I guess maybe one of the wheels was pinned but not 4 sure. I immediately lost power to my front wheels. I was able to make it off the trail in 4 Low with the help of my bro, also my winch decided to stop working while trying to pull my rig off the trail. I can hear the Solenoid click but it is not working in either direction I have a SuperWinch 9000... Any suggestions on figuring out the winch problem would be very helpful. I should have started this thread a while back but I didn't... So here is where I am now.... Rig works in 4 Low but 4 Hi awful grinding noise and barely moves... So I ordered a front knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters because this already needed to be done. One axle clicked and the other had the Soupy discharge all over the steering knuckle. I was reading over forums and talking to people an I thought i had broke a Birf... Pulled the Driver side birf during the axle rebuild and it check out perfectly. Pulled the passenger side Birf and it clicked a little when moving around but was all intact. Dropped the drive train last night in order to test the front diff... Was able to spin the shaft coming out the front diff forward and backwards with little resistance.... I figured at this point spinning the shaft in the front diff i would hear grinding noise but i didn't. However drained the fluid and found tiny pieces of metal but nothing to big. Also i have the passenger axle exposed rite now. So when i spin the front driver side wheel it will not spin the passenger exposed axle but will spin the shaft coming out the front diff.... At this point i have almost eliminated all the problems and believe it has to be something broken in the front diff. Please let me know your thoughts, why it broke, what you think broke, any more test i can do, and what i can do differently so i don't break again. Thanks. Last I put the car in Neutral lifted it on four jack stands put it in 4 hi and spun the back wheelsand i could see the rear drive train and the drive train coming out of the transfer case operating correctly which also leads me to believe the problem is in the front diff or front axles....

This i a pic of how my rig sits. 200,000K miles and i can get more pics of where i am at now & agian an info would be greatly appreciated
How do I check Drive Flanges? is that in the front differential?
The flanges on the outside of the hub that the axle shaft passes thru. The splines can strip and then the axle turns but not the wheel.
It's an easy fix.
When i turn the front diff. by hand both axles turn... If i hold the passenger side axle thats exposed the driver side wheel will turn and visa versa. However if i turn the driver side wheel it will not turn the axle that is exposed. Knowing that information can it still be the drive flanges
It will take less time to pull off the drive flanges (as mentioned above) and examine the splines where they mesh with the splines at the axle stub ends, than yakking about it here.

What can turn by hand and seem ok is another thing compared to when the engine is trying to move the vehicle.

I'd strap it to a fixed object and have someone watch to see if the end of either axle spins when you try to take off in AWD. But, I just read your original post more closely. 4 Hi didn't move. If the center diff is locked, it should have moved. Try the above just to be sure but it sounds more like the transfer case to me now. It doesn't move in hi but it does in low?
In 4 Hi very loud grinding noise very little power... In 4 low drives perfectly fine... Put the truck in neutral disconnected front drift shaft from front differential spun the rear wheels and i can see all the drivetrains moving correctly the one going into the Tcase and the one going out of the Tcase... Therefore it leads me to believe the problem is between the Front Diff or the axles... And again i heard a very loud pop
However I will def, inspect driveflanges today i pulled both of them rebuilt driver side already and didn't think to look at it. I have passenger side apart rite now so will look at that Flange when i get home
Tell us more about your rig. Is it locked? Does it have a CDL button?
No CDL and not locked.... However after it broke was able to drive in Low Gear perfectly fine, and the CDL dashlight came on showing that it was locked and the ABS sensor also came on... Also it wouldn't go into park well wanted to role and brakes weren't working the best
Today I decided to go ahead and order a Front diff from DEO @ Landcruiser Junction and a right Birf Joint because the right has a little bit of play in it... However I am still puzzled of what actually Broke I mean it was LOUD POP! I figured something has to be destroyed from the sound but I have still not found it. My gut tells me it something in the Front Diff I am gonna pull it tonight when I get home & finish tearing down the Passenger Side for the front axle rebuild
If you're really fine in 4Lo but 4Hi is a mess, there just one set of gears that make that variable work in my head. Transfer case.

But hey, check the easy stuff like the drive flanges & all that - once you find the fill plug on your trans case & verify you can refill - I'd pop the drain plug & see if you get metal shavings.

Not common, but your description puts me thinking the case.
No CDL and not locked.... However after it broke was able to drive in Low Gear perfectly fine, and the CDL dashlight came on showing that it was locked and the ABS sensor also came on... Also it wouldn't go into park well wanted to role and brakes weren't working the best

NO CDL is why it doesn't move in 4Hi, the cdl automatically locks in 4low so it moves fine. It's most likely the flanges as has been stated above. this is good and an easy fix if the axles splines are still good.
Totally agree with @Funner's assessment. Without the CDL switch there isn't 4Hi, it's AWD and a stripped flange means you're going nowhere without CDL or a locked front diff.
Def understand that UTkruzer I will check both Flanges when I get home. However, strip a flange would not make a loud pop or would it. I mean loud it was axle breaking Loud, the noise again came in reverse. @LINUS could breaking a gear in the Trans case make that much noise. When i get home this evening the 1st test i am gonna do is put rig on jack stands in the rear front is all ready off the ground the drive train is disconnected at the Front Diff hanging across the tie rod arms. I am gonna put it in 4Hi I am guessing that the rear wheels will turn and turn both drive shafts if the problem is in the T case i should no right away.... Question how safe is it to run the vehicle on jack stands with the front driveshaft hanging down across the tie rod arms prolly run it 2-5mph should be okay right?
Could put in 4lo, activate CDL and pull the 20a fuse, place back in hi, go for a drive.

I'd focus more on the t case right now than the 3rds.

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