Official US Wheels 16x8 +25 5x150 Steel Wheel Group Buy Thread (EDIT: 16" not 17")

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Just a quick update i posited the question to Bob this morning and he's pretty diligent about getting back to me. I offered to measure my hubs with a caliper if he needed to make the wheels hub-centric, or if the finished wheels would come with conical holes (and if so, what angle so we could see if matching lugs would be available) to make the wheels lug-centric.
 

e9999

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Here is a cute bit of trivia: my 80 came originally with the forged alum wheels. So the stud holes were straight and the nuts had the straight cylinder base with a big flange. But, it turns out that Toyota also put a conical end on those very nuts, and the cone angle on the nuts matched the one on at least some of their steel wheels, so the nuts can be used for both aluminum wheels with straight stud holes *and* steel wheels with conical holes. How is that for thinking?
 
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Here is a cute bit of trivia: my 80 came originally with the forged alum wheels. So the stud holes were straight and the nuts had the straight cylinder base with a big flange. But, it turns out that Toyota also put a conical end on those very nuts, and the cone angle on the nuts matched the one on at least some of their steel wheels, so the nuts can be used for both aluminum wheels with straight stud holes *and* steel wheels with conical holes. How is that for thinking?
Haha wow. What a fun thing to have to figure out
 
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OK... i got an answer.

the wheels will be lug-centric, and the holes on the wheel are cut to 60 degrees. As such, a conical seat lug nut with a 60 degree taper will work as long as it's bigger than the diameter of the hole, obviously. Hope this clarifies!
 

e9999

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60 deg (inclusive) cone is the most common type IIRC. And matching aftermarket nuts are relatively inexpensive I think. And you won't have to worry about having the hub hole be just right. All cheaper and easier. (Well, if you don't feel strongly about having hubcentric wheels that is... :) )
 
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60 deg (inclusive) cone is the most common type IIRC. And matching aftermarket nuts are relatively inexpensive I think. And you won't have to worry about having the hub hole be just right. All cheaper and easier. (Well, if you don't feel strongly about having hubcentric wheels that is... :) )
Exactly haha.
 

abuck99

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Measure the test wheel hub center with a micrometer. It should be bored to 110.3mm~110.5mm.

Should work with acorn type lug nuts-

2398127D-A1F6-4662-A7FC-7227DF0392C6.jpeg
 
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Measure the test wheel hub center with a micrometer. It should be bored to 110.3mm~110.5mm.

Should work with acorn type lug nuts-

View attachment 1945791
Yeah I’ve the ost couple days since e9999’s post I’ve been doing a lot of research. If the holes are conical and you’re using tapered lugs the hubcentricity does not come into effect at all. These wheels were not designed to be hub centric and as such the hub hole will be about 112.
 

abuck99

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The Method wheels I currently have are not hubcentric- and when mounted correctly (tightened while off the ground) they spin fine.

But, hubcentric and lug centric is what the factory wheel is and if you/they are going through the exercise of having a wheel created for 100~200 series use, getting the hubcentric part right should be a priority (for the manufacturer and users). Having both fitments( hub and lug centric) is an advantage, it helps mounting and helps take the shock load off the lug.
 

e9999

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^ A, sure it's an advantage to have both, and I do like that myself, however, the problem is that for hubcentricity to work you need to be just right. You need contact, but not too much. Without contact it just doesn't work and too much you can't slip it on. Altogether, it's likely more diffficult to implement than to have the wheels be lug-centric, I would think. A manufacturer that does not have good quality control, for instance, won't want to take a chance on hubcentricity if some customers may come back saying their wheels don't fit over the hub and kill all your profits. In other words, I suspect that if you want inexpensive, it'll have to be lug-centric.

One more word of caution for folks who may not have been exposed to all this before: be careful that you don't mistake radius base nuts for conical base nuts. The former has a spherical shape to the taper rather than straight. But from far away if you don't pay attention they look the same. Yet, you really don't want to use the wrong one for the job.
 
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The Method wheels I currently have are not hubcentric- and when mounted correctly (tightened while off the ground) they spin fine.

But, hubcentric and lug centric is what the factory wheel is and if you/they are going through the exercise of having a wheel created for 100~200 series use, getting the hubcentric part right should be a priority (for the manufacturer and users). Having both fitments( hub and lug centric) is an advantage, it helps mounting and helps take the shock load off the lug.
What I understand is that if you’re using conical holes and lugs, the part of the wheel around the hub bears no weight so making the wheel hub centric isn’t necessarily an advantage. If however this is important enough that it would dissuade people from purchasing the wheels, I will have a talk with bob and see if that’s something they can get behind.

He told me he measured the hun center of the wheel and it measured 110.4 however this did not fit on my hub.
 
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Here is a cute bit of trivia: my 80 came originally with the forged alum wheels. So the stud holes were straight and the nuts had the straight cylinder base with a big flange. But, it turns out that Toyota also put a conical end on those very nuts, and the cone angle on the nuts matched the one on at least some of their steel wheels, so the nuts can be used for both aluminum wheels with straight stud holes *and* steel wheels with conical holes. How is that for thinking?
The lug nuts all depends on what type of spare wheel is installed. A vehicle with aluminum wheels on the ground needs to have lug nuts that are compatible with a steel wheel if the equipped spare is steel.

For example a 2007 or newer Tundra will have the mag/shank style lug nut but with the conical end for the steel spare.

The mag/shank style nuts (without the conical end) should never be used with a steel wheel. The only examples I can think of right now that had those nuts are the Isuzu Rodeo aka Honda Passport. Maybe the Mitsubushi Montero as well...the ones back in the 90s.

Bottom line is that if your spare is steel, then most likely the lug nuts will work. May not be pretty though.
 
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The lug nuts all depends on what type of spare wheel is installed. A vehicle with aluminum wheels on the ground needs to have lug nuts that are compatible with a steel wheel if the equipped spare is steel.

For example a 2007 or newer Tundra will have the mag/shank style lug nut but with the conical end for the steel spare.
our 100 series have mag/shank with conical tips. as for these wheels, though, we need to make sure they're 60 degree angles or else get new lug nuts (which i would do anyway considering the mag/shank will look silly on the steel wheels).

upon further research it looks like steel wheels are very rarely ever hub-centric.
 
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Sorry I didn't read the whole thread so I didn't realize what all was being said. I can't say I have ever seen a hub-centric steel wheel either.
 
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Hey guys. I’d love to get a quick check in to see whose still in on this. I should be getting the new fitting wheel any day now and once I confirm fitment the link will go up. Please check in and let me know
 
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17's would be the ideal size since you can fit a 34" tire with relative ease. Perhaps we can have more options once the hub bore is worked out with this supplier.
 
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Unfortunately these will only be available in 16 as far as what I’m told. I’m having trouble getting in touch with the guy once again but will call again today.
 
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