I promise once I get these wheel locks off I’ll be test fitting the wheel (likely Saturday
No worries brother, appreciate all the work you’ve done so farI promise once I get these wheel locks off I’ll be test fitting the wheel (likely Saturday morning).
The test wheel I received was too small by about 1-2mm. He’s machining another sample at +2mm and sending it to me. As for the lugs, the wheels are flat faced and direct bolt on. I will ask which lugs he recommends. Will post a photo today that will give better ideas.Nice to see some more options, thanks for the legwork. Only skimmed quickly the thread but did not see mention of whether these are supposed be truly hubcentric or not (1 or 2mm too big may be too much probably) and also the diameter and style (straight or cone) of the lug holes., but I imagine it's in there. If not, you may want to check.
All great info which I will discuss with him. Thus far we were looking for a wheel that fits but once that happens we will discuss the above because it’s cleqely very important. I don’t know that the precision is there to machine these wheels perfectly hubcentric so it will likely be done via lug kits and holes.I'm no expert on wheels but I think that if you want hubcentric, the hub hole is gotta be right on, not a guess +/- 1mm, and unless the thing is extremely precisely made, it'd be hard to have both conical (or tight straight) stud holes and hubcentric features at the same time. In that case you might want non-conical holes and a bit of wiggle room with the diameter of the stud holes to ensure hubcentricity (if your center hole is just right). Or forget the hubcentric bit and use either conical holes or close-fitting straight holes, but then you need the matching nuts (in shape and diameter). There is more to this than just slap a wheel on, I think. The nuts should match the wheel. If you use conical base nuts, even the angle of both cones should match. If you use straight base nuts as is common with aluminum wheels, the outside diameter of the nut base should match the stud hole. Etc. Anyway, they should know about all this, and should have asked you, I imagine.
Probably the best thing to do is to identify first clearly and precisely what the OEM features are for either or both 100 and 200s. As in are the OEM wheels truly hubcentric or not? if so, what is the exact hub hole diameter? What are the diameters of the stud holes? What type of holes are they? What type of nuts do they use? What are the dimensions of the nuts? And then I suppose either reproduce all the wheels features exactly or at least figure out the numbers on the new wheels to let people decide what they need to do to make it work. There may be other issues, like what torque to use. My 80 manual shows significantly different torques for the steel and aluminum wheels, for example. Does the 100 or 200 manual show that too? Or can the OEM steel torque be figured out maybe from non-US vehicles? Would those values even be appropriate for non-OEM wheels?
One way to look at all that is to think about how much work the Toyota engineering team probably put into figuring this all out and manufacturing the wheels just right for their calculations. Deviations from that are probably not the best or easiest thing.
I'll mention something for reference. I put old Tundra OEM steel wheels on my 80. Those have conical holes and I used conical nuts of the correct angle with sufficient contact area. So the wheel is already positioned by the nuts. But there is also only between 1.5 and 2 thous of space between the hub and the hubcentric tabs on the wheels. I can't see the gaps. That is close. It's OEM.
Sorry, don't mean to throw cold water on a great initiative, just a suggestion to be careful...