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Is your routine any different than this:

Step 1: wash
Step 2: Claybar
Step 3: 105 compound
Step 4: 205 polish
 
James,

That is pretty much my method except that I tend to play it much safer than 105 and 205. 105 is super aggressive. I use a cheap rotary buffer and not an orbital like the Porter Cable 7424, so I have to be real careful. When you are dealing with old paint that is sun faded and worn thin, 105 on a rotary will strip it to primer in 2 seconds.

My method goes something like this:

Dawn Wash
Clay bar
216 Fine Cut Cleaner
316 Machine Glaze
Wax or Sealant by hand

A large part of the "cut" comes from the pads used on the buffer. The more porous the pad, the more cut it takes. I use a really dense, smooth pad for the glaze step.

I can appreciate the finer points of using high end polishes and waxes but for my purposes, I have found that I can achieve the results I want with cheaper stuff (Meguiars or 3M) from the local NAPA or Car Quest paint store. I don't own a Corvette. I am not a Zaino freak. I have no interest in debating the merits of $100/bottle sealants and fancy chemicals on the BMW message boards or on the detailing forums. I think most of that stuff is snake oil anyway.
 
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I know a place in Greensboro that has a field of fj60 and 62 parts that i can hook yall up with just let me know
 
HELP!!!!!

I need a 2F engine front harmonic balancer with two pulley grooves. Does anyone have one available. The one I got from IPOR is wildly out of balance.
 
Muto1

Is this the spot:

junkyard.webp
 
Anyone know the name of the place? I'll go check it out
 
Thanks Jackson! A premature welcome to ONSC and the Land Cruiser madness. Come join us on the first Tuesday of the month for a supper meet and greet. The location will be decided a week or so before the date.
 
I looked it up and it's only 10 minutes from where I work and I just so happen to be leaving for the day in about 15 minutes. I know where I'll be going
 
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