OEM Wheel Restoration - painting

[fzj80guy]

Just restored my OEM wheels and wanted to share what I used as well as a few pics. I don’t think keeping stock wheels is super popular but it’s what I wanted to do. Hope the paint/color (SP188 -color) info is helpful to someone wanting to do the same. And new KO3 tires installed too. Always wanted an older LC to have fun with and over the last 5 years have enjoyed bringing this one back to stock and tons of miles.

 

[mmbirtcher]

Nice work. Mine are due for sure, but I'm thinking I may go to 17's or 18's. I did paint the wheels on my old Lexus gloss back. Prep was the key. Lots of sanding, priming and multiple light coats.

 

[uHu]

Just restored my OEM wheels and wanted to share what I used as well as a few pics. I don’t think keeping stock wheels is super popular but it’s what I wanted to do. Hope the paint/color (SP188 -color) info is helpful to someone wanting to do the same. And new KO3 tires installed too. Always wanted an older LC to have fun with and over the last 5 years have enjoyed bringing this one back to stock and tons of miles.

Looks great. This is a job I have to do on 9 wheels. Do you have more info on the prepping, process and tools used?

 

[excessive]

Great work. I love the stock wheels, and you know they're solid as a rock.

 

[Manhattan]

Nice work! I've painted a couple sets of wheels, and powder coated a few sets. The nice thing about rattle cans - it's easier to match the center caps (can't powder coat plastic) and easier to touch-up trail scuffs.

 

[fzj80guy]

Looks great. This is a job I have to do on 9 wheels. Do you have more info on the prepping, process and tools used?

Sure. Mine were not chipped or worn through. The original paint or finish was stained from wear but not corroded. So a thorough cleaning with suds.lab zero acid wheel cleaner followed by thorough cleaning with Dawn dish soap.
Then a light sanding with 400 grit wet paper and finally 600 grit. Cleaning in between sanding with a clean rag and isopropyl alcohol.
I did not use a primer before painting as the original finish to the wheels was fully intact. It just looked terrible.
Probably 6 light coats of wheel paint with recommended drying time between each as well as light sanding again between coats and wipe down with isopropyl alcohol. Finally the clear coat again with light scuffing using the 600 grit wet paper and probably 4 light coats. I let that dry for 30 days and then treated them with Chemical Guys hydro-spin ceramic coating to help protect the new finish. You’ll need 2 cans of each VHT product for 4 wheels. The new center caps were from the auction site.

Hope that helps!
Marvin

 

[fzj80guy]

Nice work! I've painted a couple sets of wheels, and powder coated a few sets. The nice thing about rattle cans - it's easier to match the center caps (can't powder coat plastic) and easier to touch-up trail scuffs.

Thank you! I’ve been doing rattle can work for at least 40 years so I’m very comfortable with the process and totally agree with the ability to touch up as needed very easily!

 

[Super77]

Looks great. I did the same, using SprayMax 1k silver wheel paint plus SprayMax 2k glamour clear on top. The 2k clear is much, MUCH more durable than a rattlecan clear and gives a true 'wet-look' finish if that's your thing. Also available in satin if not.

 

[fzj80guy]

Looks great. I did the same, using SprayMax 1k silver wheel paint plus SprayMax 2k glamour clear on top. The 2k clear is much, MUCH more durable than a rattlecan clear and gives a true 'wet-look' finish if that's your thing. Also available in satin if not.

What’s different about the 2K clear that makes it more durable?

 

[jaewastooshort]

mainly that it uses a catalyst that causes it to cure much harder than I've ever seen out of a single-component clear (regular rattle can).

just know that there are different safety precautions necessary (respirator) for spraying the 2k products.

Amazon.com

SprayMax 2k clear, for reference

 

[Super77]

mainly that it uses a catalyst that causes it to cure much harder than I've ever seen out of a single-component clear (regular rattle can).

just know that there are different safety precautions necessary (respirator) for spraying the 2k products.

Amazon.com

SprayMax 2k clear, for reference

It's like epoxy, plus you can speed-cure it under a heat lamp. 2K is what the body shop uses, and the gloss level of the clear is a league above 1K, which dries by the solvents slowly evaporating, leaving solids behind. One thing to keep in mind: once you activate the can, it has a 24-48 hour shelf life (a little longer if you refrigerate it). At $30/can, plan ahead to finish the job in one go.

The warnings on the SprayMax can are no joke. I use a full mask respirator, a Tyvek suit, and a portable painting tent with a fan exhaust when working with 2K paint.

 

[DuckLN]

I like to see people do something that takes work but patiently gettin it done. A full woo pig to you sir!