OEM hub cap wheel colors

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I did my wheels for the 45lwb black, I think that would be correct for 1967, or body color. Mine would be perfect, if someone would sell me a set of first gen hub caps. The wheels on my 55 were powdercoated in electrical box grey, it is to light to match the stock spare that was under the 55, but I had 5 powder coated the same. I like the darker concrete grey. IMHO, for the green 82, the concrete grey would look very nice.
 
those all look like poop :(

(not the work, the color)

John



treerootCO said:
:) .
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It is concrete grey by Dupont. Cant really member what they charged, but is was around 25 to 30 per wheel to blast AND coat them. I would for sure go Powdercoat on wheels; paint chips and scratches really easily. Yes, you can chip and scratch powder, but not as easily.
 
he top wheel I am 99.9% certain is stock.

I know about the dates(I think from you long ago).....and have checked them, just forgot which was which ;)

cruiserbrett said:
Pimp, that top dark gray wheel is not any color I have seen before. the others are the colors of the wheels I have from all different vintages...

Also, no reason to "guess" when the wheel was made. Just check the last few digits of the stamping on it. To find the stamping, its on the outside of the wheel on the same surface that the valve stem is on, just that if the valve stem is at 6 o'clock, the stamping is at 12 o'clock. the last bit will read as a 2 digit year followed by a slash and a one or two digit month. I cant really tell what yours reads, but I have four that read "76/2" that came off my feb 1976 FJ40, and another few that came off a may 1978 that read "78/5"...etc. Also, interesting trivia... Welded wheels started way before discs. I have a few early 1974 wheels that are welded(aka "disc") wheels...
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Landpimp said:
so Ige, do you think the gray with caps(or without) will look good on my JD Green 40?

John
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i think without caps would look ok and not be too obnoxious like white...with caps would look good..

here are shots in gray with caps and black with caps
35on45.webp
P2130003.webp
 
Degnol said:
Doc, I just had a set of 5 OEM hubcap wheels media blasted and I'm tempted to take them to a local powdercoater. What did it cost you, if you don't mind my asking? I painted my cruiser and have the capability to paint the wheels, but if powdercoating is close, I'd rather go that way.
Thanks, and I like your choice of colors. So, I just ax for Concrete Gray?

Ed
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Ed,

Just my $.02 but I have had two sets of powder-coated stock rims done by two different shops and both chipped. As soon as they chip, they rust. The only way to stop that is to paint over it. You end up with painted rims anyway if you want them looking good and not rusty.

I went back to the one shop and the guy told me they don't powder-coat rims anymore unless its just a show car/truck or people sign a disclaimer as they have had too many issues.

Then again, maybe both shops just sucked at powder-coating or didn't prep properly.

My next set I am working on will be sprayed by me with some good paint. Blasted clean first of course. That way, I can touch up whenever I want.

Again - just my opinion.

AndrewT
 
Pimp, how many period pictures you got of split rim hubcap wheels vs. non-hubcap? I was under the impression that splits were non-hubcap...but it's just an impression.

Steve
 
some green 40's with hub cap wheels.......not the same green but.......

87498239.jpg

87498236.jpg

87498232.jpg

87498234.jpg

87498230.jpg


all of those are splits though
 
you can get the splits or normal wheels with clips or not.

theSherpa said:
Pimp, how many period pictures you got of split rim hubcap wheels vs. non-hubcap? I was under the impression that splits were non-hubcap...but it's just an impression.

Steve
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NJFJ40 said:
Ed,

Just my $.02 but I have had two sets of powder-coated stock rims done by two different shops and both chipped. As soon as they chip, they rust. The only way to stop that is to paint over it. You end up with painted rims anyway if you want them looking good and not rusty.

I went back to the one shop and the guy told me they don't powder-coat rims anymore unless its just a show car/truck or people sign a disclaimer as they have had too many issues.

Then again, maybe both shops just sucked at powder-coating or didn't prep properly.

My next set I am working on will be sprayed by me with some good paint. Blasted clean first of course. That way, I can touch up whenever I want.

Again - just my opinion.

AndrewT
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Kinda what I was thinking. Once you breach the powdercoat, the rust starts underneath. With paint costs what they are, probably close to a wash, and a PITA to paint, but at least I can touch up. Thinking about an epoxy paint.

Thanks,
Ed
 
hey For what it's worth I think that the gray that doc b put up would look sharp, Especially with that bright green all the rest of those grays just seem drab, I also think that it looks naked without hubcaps.

Clay


Oh by the way Landpimp seeing as you have factory rims, or anyone else for that matter,

Does anyone have trouble with rubbing tires on tie rods? I'm not sure what the factory offset is cause I don't have factory rims on my cruiser. Some p.o. put chev 6 bolts on it and it has 265 75r16 rubber on it, so I have to crank out the bump stops or it ruins tie rod boots. How close do your tires come with what you run? do you use spacers? Or just adjust the bumpstops like I did?

Didn't mean to jack your thread just thought if you were talking rims you could maybe help

Thanks, Clay
 
Just a little note on powder coating. It should not chip like regular paint. Usaully the when powder coat chips it is due to improper curing of the powder. Sometimes it can be due to the prep work. This is one of those things that you get what you pay for. Look for a shop that will do the Phosphate cleaning and has been in the business a while. I have had Titanium bikes powder coated and I can tell you that they see alot more ware than the rims will and I have yet to see any chipped powder. (Scratches yes)
 
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no rubbing at all. backspace is 3.5" on the stock rims

John

clay said:
hey For what it's worth I think that the gray that doc b put up would look sharp, Especially with that bright green all the rest of those grays just seem drab, I also think that it looks naked without hubcaps.

Clay


Oh by the way Landpimp seeing as you have factory rims, or anyone else for that matter,

Does anyone have trouble with rubbing tires on tie rods? I'm not sure what the factory offset is cause I don't have factory rims on my cruiser. Some p.o. put chev 6 bolts on it and it has 265 75r16 rubber on it, so I have to crank out the bump stops or it ruins tie rod boots. How close do your tires come with what you run? do you use spacers? Or just adjust the bumpstops like I did?

Didn't mean to jack your thread just thought if you were talking rims you could maybe help

Thanks, Clay
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Regardless of color, grey stock looks cool. In those photochops, it is very hard to get a clear picture because the caps are not on. That changes eveything i.e. decreases the focus on the grey, refocuses on the chrome and allows for a very nice eye blend ( :
 
hey thanks for the info. these chevy rims are 3.75 on the back, it's a 1/4" difference so that's not huge but maybe it's just enough? you told me you got 33x9.5 rubber right? that's what I'm looking at
so

If I go 33x9.5r15 on a 15x7" rim with 3.5 rear offset I'm laughing right?
 
well the wheels showed up this morning(love 1 day parts service :) and I am going drop em off at the podercoater, I am planing on going with Docs Dupont Concrete Gray

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I am still able to be convinced otherwise though........

John
 
Somebody should photoshop some beadlock rings on some stock hubcap wheels in that picture above.
 
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