odd lift results (1 Viewer)

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good evening y'all,

First time posting, I recently purchased a JDM 1993 80 Series Diesel with triple lockers. It came with a "3" inch lift. I noticed it had original shocks.....from center of hub to fender flare was 23.5"s on 3 sides and on the left rear 23"s. So it was logical that the vehicle had a 3" lift made since because I've read multiple times that stock height is around 20"s. The trailing arms appeared to be stock as well as the panhards and front radius arms are stock.

To correct some the issues and allow for future larger tires (currently 35's) I Purchased the Dobinson 4" lift package with the heavy springs (bumpers on order). After install I have some odd results.... From center of hub to fender flare I'm reading 27"s. I have added weight to front and rear to simulate heaver bumpers ( rear added weight 215lbs, front 170lbs). The front coils do have a spacer from last lift. I chose to leave it because how even measurements were front to rear.

Free spring heights: OLD: Lftrear-18 7/8" Rtr-18 7/8" Lftfront-20 1/4" Rtfr - 20 1/4"
New: Lftrear- 21 3/4" Rtr- 21 1/2" Lftfront- 22 3/8" Rtfr- 21 13\16"

So I was expecting around around 26 1/4" measurments without added weight but even with added Weight i'm at 27"s . Why?
My next step is caster adjustment but i'm hesitating because according to stock readings I have a 7" lift now not a 4" lift (no obvious body lift)?
I'm currntly reaserching how to measure the degree of caster needed. I have the caster adjustment plates that came with the kit but I'm not sure if they will be correct for the lift result I have.

My
 

chap79

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I would start by removing the spacers to get the lift to its base height and go from there. Having the spacers installed at this point will just complicate things. 4 inches is a lot of lift for these trucks and opens up a lot of variables that have to de dialed in. At least you’re already part time 4wd because your front driveshaft probably hates its angles right now.
 
Joined
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I would start by removing the spacers to get the lift to its base height and go from there. Having the spacers installed at this point will just complicate things. 4 inches is a lot of lift for these trucks and opens up a lot of variables that have to de dialed in. At least you’re already part time 4wd because your front driveshaft probably hates its angles right now.
spacers are only on the front seems to level things out perfectly. Front driveshaft angle is ugly but thus the need for caster adjustment.
 
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spacers are only on the front seems to level things out perfectly. Front driveshaft angle is ugly but thus the need for caster adjustment.

Keep in mind that level is relative. Get things dialed in empty and you'll be tail low if you load things up for camping or a road trip. The weight you have upfront tends to be stable. Weight in the rear is variable according to load. Mr T designed in some stinkbug to deal with this. Airbags in the rear are one way to bring things back to level if you want to start off level when unloaded, but sometimes load things up or run a trailer. As chap79 noted, lots of variables, so sort out what you want to achieve as the direction you may take with that can differ.
 

LINUS

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I’d hold off on anything until you hang those bumpers, esp if you’re sticking say a “heavyweight” winch in that FR bumper.

A Warn M12K is a beefy unit compared even to the M8K.

A pair of bumpers, a winch, hanging the spare out on a arm - all adds up before we even talk drawers/rear cargo for trips.

FWIW, I have Slee 4” coils - Hvy FR’s, Prog Hvy RR’s.

I’m only running a ARB FR bumper (light) - but it has a M12K in it & I have a Hanna RR bumper (insanely built, a tank).

I don’t even run dual batteries - I have hand throttle for keeping amps up when winching.

No drawers & I only run 315/75’s (34.5’s) - I have a little stinkbug going, but not crazy.
 
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The lift being level isn't my main concern. My concern is that I have 7"s (after adding weight front and rear) above typical stock height when I added a 4" lift. This brings into question will 4" caster adjustment plates (also considering installing radius arms with built in caster adjustment) be correct or should I adjust caster as if I had a 6+ inch lift?
 

LINUS

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Wait until you have your bumpers & all gear installed.

Then worry about it.
 

voodu3

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The lift being level isn't my main concern. My concern is that I have 7"s (after adding weight front and rear) above typical stock height when I added a 4" lift. This brings into question will 4" caster adjustment plates (also considering installing radius arms with built in caster adjustment) be correct or should I adjust caster as if I had a 6+ inch lift?
Yes measure your lift height following the instructions in the thread posted above. Then make your caster correction based on that measurement. It helped me tremendously
 
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The old 3" lift kit and the stock vehicles you've been measuring may have sagged over time? They won't have sagged 3" but it's worth keeping in mind.

After a while your lifted suspension will eventually settle to a lower height, especially once accessories are added. People typically get a wheel alignment after lift kit installation, then some people get another alignment a month or two later once the springs have settled/worn in.
 
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I put on a Dobinsons 3" heavy lift and got more lift than I was expecting, even with front bumper w/ winch, dual batteries, sliders, skid plate, rear bumper w/ 35" spare, RTT, and awning. That being said, I don't think mine sits too high and have been very pleased with the setup. Perfect for my apllication. Here is the link to my lift thread:

Cruzerman's FZJ80 3" Lift
 

crikeymike

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On my first 80 series, I put OME 2" front and rear springs, medium load, and got 3" front lift and 5" rear lift over the worn out sagged suspension (it was expected).

OP should post a photo of what it looks like right now. Coil springs are all designed with specific weight parameters, so you need to add that weight to get to the appropriate height.

And if the front spacer is anything more than 1/2" thick, then that will be adding height to that side, adding extra lift to what you have. Dobinsons coils are left and right sided for an 80 series, so you shouldn't need lean spacers unless accessory weight in the vehicle is unbalanced.
 
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