o2 sensor part numbers
- Thread starter 109madrid
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@beno or @cruiserdan will have them off the tops of their heads. If you have a nut splitter, that would work too. Not my recommendation, just the first picture that I could find:
Performance Tool Heavy-Duty Nut Splitter, Model# W88030 | Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment
Performance Tool Heavy-Duty Nut Splitter, Model# W88030 | Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment
89465-60110 is the part number for the pair. It will be less money than buying them individually.
Removing damaged nuts on this setup is very challenging with the head pipes in place. You may need to remove the pipes to get to the nuts.
EDIT June 2024. This part number has been discontinued.
Removing damaged nuts on this setup is very challenging with the head pipes in place. You may need to remove the pipes to get to the nuts.
EDIT June 2024. This part number has been discontinued.
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@cruiserdan Tnx for the O2 kit part#
Since one of my O2 sensors is completely dead and i have bad idle I have a though decision to make
My mechanic dose not want to try to fix the idle before 2 new sensors will be installed
A week ago, Mr T approved me with the 1995 recall campaign that is a free replacement of the o2 sensors
Is there a problem (damage to the engine) to suck it up? And wait for Mr T parts they told me it will take 2 months?
Or mabey get only replacement for Bank 1 bad O2? (Is bank 1 LH or RH?) until I get the recall done? ( I know its better to replace the 2)
The 8946560110 Kit - 242$
I looked in the EPC I saw this kit consist of 2 not identical sensors
LH 8946569075 -242$
RH 89465-69065 - 242$
In T japan this part was replaced with different part #
LH 89465-69125 - 133$
RH 89465-69115 - 135$
What is the difference between the original at and Toyota replacement?
Does it come with the gasket?
So what will be the best way to go??
Hey 109 Madrid: My research finds Denso 234-4520 - front 3 cya's, for $144 on amazon, or Walker 250-24501 for both banks of cya's for $35-$80 depending on vendor.......
Originally, the front and rear cylinder banks are electrically identical, but have two different cable lengths. The Walker claims to support both locations - probably by longer cable.
In 250K miles, we've replaced one and have one failing again. Pretty doggone reliable on the OEM parts.
Bill
'94 LC "Mean Green" currently deployed to Spokane in the hands of my "Landy-Loving" daughter.
'02 LC "Moby the Grey Whale" box stock original - "cushy but not an 80 series" FJ105.
- Thread starter
- #7
Toyota costs less? Where? Can you give me a link. Just looking for the cheapest way to fix my ‘94 with oem Toyota sensors
- Thread starter
- #10
What code are you throwing? Mine has both 25 and 26 codes only, so a rich/lean combo code.
I was actually 25 and 55, but im going to adjust timing again after O2s are replaced and see if I still need a knock sensor.
Here's a few links you might find helpful.
How i fixed my 94 L.C. check engine light Code 26
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/upl...r manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf
Vf1 voltage
How i fixed my 94 L.C. check engine light Code 26
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/upl...r manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf
Vf1 voltage
Knock sensor code usually means the sensor is failing, not that your timing is advanced too far.
- Thread starter
- #14
Yea, had code 55 and replaced the rear knock sensor and the code was gone right away. It was a pain to get to though
@cruiserdan can you give me the part numbers for replacement of o2 sensors on a 1995 obdII? Any suggestions on what I should get? Thank you!