My mileage was getting really bad over the last 10k, which I now understand is a common symptom of aging O2 sensors. It's been only a few weeks, but I am getting about 12/16 instead of 10/14.
O2 Sensor - Code P0135 - Replace all? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kigiin
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My mileage was getting really bad over the last 10k, which I now understand is a common symptom of aging O2 sensors. It's been only a few weeks, but I am getting about 12/16 instead of 10/14.
pegasis0066 said:
PB Blaster. Torque, untorque, repeat. Make sure to use a lot of that included anti-sieze compount when putting the new ones on.
If you still can't get them off, then you might want carefully try when that area is still hot as the metal expands a bit. I had to do this one one side.
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
pegasis0066 said:
Look at the new part. You'll see exactly what the connections are.
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
pegasis0066 said:
Try to wedge a small screwdriver under the release tab.
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
At least you got it. Glad I did mine with the DT header install. G/L hope your CEL is a thing of the past. Maybe you'll pickup a mileage boost while you're at it. Remember to reset the ECU and give it time to re-learn idle before you drive it.
CappyKD said:
The re-learn idle bit is a much overlooked and very important step. My truck is much smoother now across the board after letting it idle for 15 minutes after reconnecting the battery. Hopefully it will slightly increase my dismal 10 MPG.
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
- Thread starter
- #35
I need to do my rears but they are super rusted. I have sprayed them a couple times this weekend so maybe in a week or two they will be ready.
I noted they each have two bolts and don't screw in like the fronts, and to make things more interesting to remove, they bolt in from the top.
Are tricks to get these out, other than elbow grease and patience?
I noted they each have two bolts and don't screw in like the fronts, and to make things more interesting to remove, they bolt in from the top.
Are tricks to get these out, other than elbow grease and patience?
Can't help you there. I've only done the fronts so far, besides here in SoCal things don't generally rust, so mine are rust free. You may want to buy replacement nuts for the rears before you try to remove them.
- Thread starter
- #37
Ok so I haven't ordered rear sensor yet, but had time today to see what I was in store for. After loosening the bank 1 sensor 2 bolts, I decided to run down to the hardware store to get some stainless steel nuts so that when I do have to replace them (which will be soon) removal will be a snap.
I purchase metric 8 x 1.25 nuts, after checking the OEM one the hardware store's nut/bolt gauges. So I run home, quickly replace the previously loosened bank 1 sensor 2 nuts. Flip over to the other side's rear, and discover original nuts are in pretty poor shape, and I can't even get a wrench tightly on them. So I think why not try to crush it in place by putting the new stainless nut down on top of it. I quickly discover the bolt stems on this side are smaller and my 8 x 1.5 nuts are too big - how can this be?
Has anyone experienced this - the bolt stems on the rear sensors vary in size, one side vs the other?
I purchase metric 8 x 1.25 nuts, after checking the OEM one the hardware store's nut/bolt gauges. So I run home, quickly replace the previously loosened bank 1 sensor 2 nuts. Flip over to the other side's rear, and discover original nuts are in pretty poor shape, and I can't even get a wrench tightly on them. So I think why not try to crush it in place by putting the new stainless nut down on top of it. I quickly discover the bolt stems on this side are smaller and my 8 x 1.5 nuts are too big - how can this be?
Has anyone experienced this - the bolt stems on the rear sensors vary in size, one side vs the other?
