NP 205 drive flanges and which CVs to use? (1 Viewer)

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West MI near GVSU
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Hey guys. I need to get back to my build on my 40 and am trying to determine what to use for CVs and drive flanges on my 205.

I have some early mini truck CVs, but don’t feel like they will be up to transferring power from a healthy LS 6.0 and 38s.

If it can be done inexpensively, what are good options for more durable and higher angle CVs? Any junkyard suggestions or will I have to spend $500 per driveshaft to get what I want for angles and long life? My goal is to drive my truck up to 2,000 miles each way to and from any trail and still drive home.

I haven’t built anything yet, just collecting parts and planning.

Edit: One of the other concerns I have with the Yota CVs is the center grease seal zerk cutout shown in the pic. At max flex won’t that take in crud?

3A295548-8F33-46CD-B4A3-7D956F9B9717.jpeg
 
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I’ll need to use a CV at the tcase. Are there LC CVs bigger than the mini truck ones? If so, what did they come on and how much angle can they handle?
I'm not sure if the LC (maybe FJ60's did in the front?) came with the dual CV joints. Your best bet is going with high angle driveline, Tom Woods, or your local driveshaft shop and having something made for your application using Toyota stuff or 1350's. I think the Toy joints are good for about 35 degrees Tom Woods sells the high angle 1350's that are good for 35 degrees (if you want real beef, Tom woods also has the high angle 1410 which is good for over 30 degrees. I use these on the front of my 40. 1350 CV rear with 1410 at the axle).
 
Early 85 and earlier FJ60s had DC front driveshafts. Good luck finding them!
 
I used a high angle 1350 CV shaft for the rear that I had made locally. I am also running a 6.0 and 41.5” tires.
 
Drive flange and 1350 CV at the 'case and no angle 1350 at the back. So far, no worries other than that dang transfer case hangs on everything. I need a skid plate. Soon..... But the new DS and correcting the angles ended the driveline vibrations.
 
The Toyota mini CV's have a tad more travel than a 1350 but IIRC with just a bit of grinding you can get a fair bit more angle out of both.
 
I'm not sure if the LC (maybe FJ60's did in the front?) came with the dual CV joints. Your best bet is going with high angle driveline, Tom Woods, or your local driveshaft shop and having something made for your application using Toyota stuff or 1350's. I think the Toy joints are good for about 35 degrees Tom Woods sells the high angle 1350's that are good for 35 degrees (if you want real beef, Tom woods also has the high angle 1410 which is good for over 30 degrees. I use these on the front of my 40. 1350 CV rear with 1410 at the axle).

this is what I did but I went with a Dana 300 to get a deeper low range (and shorter overall transfer case). on my list of things to do is put a 6.0 in front of my 5 speed - at this point, I'm about 50 hp shy of the 6.0 output with my 5.7.
 
this is what I did but I went with a Dana 300 to get a deeper low range (and shorter overall transfer case). on my list of things to do is put a 6.0 in front of my 5 speed - at this point, I'm about 50 hp shy of the 6.0 output with my 5.7.
As awesome as the 6.0 is, I've never felt like the 4.8 I have in my truck is underpowered (257 hp, 266 tq at the tires), and I get great mpg on the trail (12 mpg on average, no idea what street mpg is). Paying $500 for the engine delivered was another huge benefit over the 6.0.
 
As awesome as the 6.0 is, I've never felt like the 4.8 I have in my truck is underpowered (257 hp, 266 tq at the tires), and I get great mpg on the trail (12 mpg on average, no idea what street mpg is). Paying $500 for the engine delivered was another huge benefit over the 6.0.

If I swap (and no promises yet) I'll use the 6.0 because I already have it. I get maybe, and I say MAYBE 9 mpg with my 350 (it gets no more then 9 mpg)....
 

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