I’ve got at least 2 leaks. Are there guides or write ups or diagrams on how to check or service these?
Thanks
Notorious Oil Leaks
- Thread starter alleycat
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I pulled the engine cover and skid plate yesterday and tried to see what all had oil on it. The valve cover bolts were pretty loose, so I snugged them up and just checked around to see if any other bolts were loose anywhere. Then I sprayed it all down with degreaser and a can of brake parts cleaner, followed by a rinse from the hose. I drove about an hour on it after that and will check today to see if any leaks have reappeared.
So I repeated the process again yesterday and hosed the engine down real good afterwards to hopefully wash off all the chemicals. Took it for a drive and it started running real rough, got it home, parked it to hopefully let any water dry off. Took it for a test ride a few hours later and it was running fine but eventually threw a P2195 code. I’m hoping that was just a pending code from earlier and it just finally popped up? Not 100% if that’s possible. But anyway, it was running fine so I cleared the code and drove it for another 15 minutes or so and it continued to run fine and the code didn’t come back. I’ll try to stress test it a bit this week and double check the vacuum hoses And everything is connected properly. I also ordered a new PCV valve, so I’ll get that swapped in later this week.
I’ve started adding half a bottle of AT 205 to every oil change in my older vehicles to bring back and maintain the elasticity of rubber gaskets through out the engine. Seems to work for me so far.
I too have started using AT-205 preemptively in crankcase oil. The purpose is for the O-rings front and rear of block, more than any other rubber seal.
According the ATP AT-205 (8 oz bottle and web page). They recommend 1.33 oz to 1.5 oz per quart of oil. We have 7 quart capacity. So 9.1 oz to 10.5 oz (I use 10 oz) is recommended. In speaking with ATP years ago. They said: 5 hours run time to work, can be left in oil (no need to drain-out after 5 hours) and used once every 7 to 10 years.
Spoon feeding a little each oil change, over time. May or may not get desired results. IDK!
I do know the seals need to be clean, for AT-205 to be absorb into rubber. To this end. I run Mobil 1 oil (cleans engine of gunk slowly) and or flush with 2 cans of BG EPR (clean fast, so engine can not be to gunky), pre adding AT-205.
I spoke with an engineer that manufactures AT 205 via email a couple years ago and he said that there are fleet manager who run AT205 at every oil change to keep things pliable. Typically at 50% recommended, so half a bottle.
Bought my fist 100 series last week. 175k on the clock. Good condition. Needs some things but I’m ok with that.Had a 3rd party inspection done. Few things were replaced AhC globes, R/P, tie rods, intermediate DS. Couldn’t have been happier to get it.
When I picked up the truck (after flying from CT to Houston) there were no oil leaks that I could see…. I drove 1800 miles back to CT without a hitch. I’ll be honest never checked up leaks during road trip.
Now I have an active oil leaks!!!!! So disheartening…or course it’s dark out and I currently don’t have a garage and it’s friggin 15 degrees outside…. I swear I live by Murphy’s law. Now I question this mechanic and I’m ripping pissed!!
So I saw oil drops from where I parked in my driveway. Looked underneath and there is oil coating the oil pan, cv boots, and axel from what I can tell…. I guess I’m going to take it to Toyota and get fisted due to my ignorance. Her I am thinking I finally got my dream truck for a fair price. And due to the long distance sale process I think I got taken….
Any thoughts based on brief synopsis? Any help would be appreciated.
Haven’t had a chance to even learn my own truck and parts. And here I am bells deep into a major overhaul. I
it’s not an engine pull……
When I picked up the truck (after flying from CT to Houston) there were no oil leaks that I could see…. I drove 1800 miles back to CT without a hitch. I’ll be honest never checked up leaks during road trip.
Now I have an active oil leaks!!!!! So disheartening…or course it’s dark out and I currently don’t have a garage and it’s friggin 15 degrees outside…. I swear I live by Murphy’s law. Now I question this mechanic and I’m ripping pissed!!
So I saw oil drops from where I parked in my driveway. Looked underneath and there is oil coating the oil pan, cv boots, and axel from what I can tell…. I guess I’m going to take it to Toyota and get fisted due to my ignorance. Her I am thinking I finally got my dream truck for a fair price. And due to the long distance sale process I think I got taken….
Any thoughts based on brief synopsis? Any help would be appreciated.
Haven’t had a chance to even learn my own truck and parts. And here I am bells deep into a major overhaul. I
it’s not an engine pull……
Don’t fret yet. Get under there and get some photos of these leaks as well as a few engine bay photos. Check oil level on dipstick. It’ll be easier to help diagnose with photos. Also, what year and model?
Yeah, I shot out the door this morning to work. I’m gonna take a intermission here and head back to my house to take a look at it.
I’m questioning that it’s power steering due to the fact that I have a sweet smell inside the car… I know that the heater T was bypassed which made me lead to believe that he had a coolant issue or a clogged line which maybe left that coolant sweet smell in the car. I can self diagnose that heater issue later which I knew about.
But power steering also leaves a sweet smell, correct? When I checked the dipstick last night and I mind you I was under minimal light. It didn’t seem low, which makes me believe it’s power steering but then again I’ve been wrong before many a time.
When I get back to my house, I’ll get under there and take a look snap some photos. I appreciate your time and thoughts
Man do I know that feeling! I bought mine locally here in southern NY and even with tons of records, it still needed so much. The amount of pure negligence by mechanics is insane. Find a local guy to help you before you bring it to the morons at Toyota.
It really is!!! It’s insane! As a tradesman (electrician) no who’s/what I’m working on, I do everything as if it’s my own. I really don think there is any oversight to being a mechanic… I think they just hire people randomly…..All the BS certificates on the walls mean nothing, I’ve never seen a consistent training/certificate/license for being a mechanic. I think it’s all participation awards! 
I know in CT a guy named Spencer used to work on my father’s fj60. I’ll have to see if he is still doing it….
I know in CT a guy named Spencer used to work on my father’s fj60. I’ll have to see if he is still doing it….
Where in CT are you?It really is!!! It’s insane! As a tradesman (electrician) no who’s/what I’m working on, I do everything as if it’s my own. I really don think there is any oversight to being a mechanic… I think they just hire people randomly…..All the BS certificates on the walls mean nothing, I’ve never seen a consistent training/certificate/license for being a mechanic. I think it’s all participation awards!
I know in CT a guy named Spencer used to work on my father’s fj60. I’ll have to see if he is still doing it….
New Haven. But the place is so damn small your never really more than 1hr away from anything.
So I determined it is PS fluid… the oil level never dropped a centimeter. The left side of the engine bay is wet and obviously the underside like I said… I’m curious if it is the ump or did the mechanic fail to install seals/hoses properly….
Nonetheless, I feel it’s a small victory if it is confirmed that it’s P/SI did a rack on my 4runner, tightening the high pressure lines a was a real pain the di ck. Probably why they didnt tighten them.New Haven. But the place is so damn small your never really more than 1hr away from anything.
So I determined it is PS fluid… the oil level never dropped a centimeter. The left side of the engine bay is wet and obviously the underside like I said… I’m curious if it is the ump or did the mechanic fail to install seals/hoses properly….
Uggh that’s where my mind is going after scouring the web for what would be the issue. Where are the high pressure line located at? Do I need to jack up the R/P to do tighten them?
Where are you located roughly?