Yeah I’m going to take a look at my situation....... I was sitting for a while but don’t think it should have gotten that high.
Normal Operating Temp?
- Thread starter collk22
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My old cooling system ran 195-205: highest recorded ambient temps about 112-115F. New cooling system has ranged from 186~193 mostly stays between 186~190 in 95F ambient temps.
I think 225F is high on a 100 series and indicates potential for a cooling issue; its warning you.
If you were sitting and it climbed that high check your fan clutch. Also check that the coolant is full
to the top of the neck of the radiator, and that the fins on the front of the radiator (and also condensor) arent clogged debris and impeding air flow(mine had a good amount of mud grass and pine needles sucked up along the lower corners and edges)
Another thing that adds heat to the cooling system is the internal trans cooler. Check your transmission fluid: correct level and good ruby red color.
After all that checks out it may be time for a new rad.
I think 225F is high on a 100 series and indicates potential for a cooling issue; its warning you.
If you were sitting and it climbed that high check your fan clutch. Also check that the coolant is full
to the top of the neck of the radiator, and that the fins on the front of the radiator (and also condensor) arent clogged debris and impeding air flow(mine had a good amount of mud grass and pine needles sucked up along the lower corners and edges)
Another thing that adds heat to the cooling system is the internal trans cooler. Check your transmission fluid: correct level and good ruby red color.
After all that checks out it may be time for a new rad.
It shouldn't matter how long you where sitting. As long as everything is in working order you should be able to hold 1500 rpm for days and not overheat.
But with this new info...your fan clutch is bad.
Do not forget the overlooked and ever important radiator cap. If the PSI is lower than it's supposed to be you will run hotter.
Cool thank guys. For the info! Helps a ton
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
My 100 here is SoCal normally runs 190ish since i've had it. I noticed during our heat wave this weekend, I hit 208 for a few seconds (with front and rear A/C on Max speed on the coldest setting) in stop and go traffic with the outside temp was 117. For the rest of the drive home I watched it, it ranged from 196 to 203, when I got home, it was 115 outside.
Here to bring an old thread back to life...
I've been using Torque to watch temps on my LX and freaked out one day when it was showing 237 as engine temp. Got home and found the coolant was down about 1/2 gallon. Topped it off and thought very little about it, but it did make me watch the temp readout in Torque a lot more. I saw it running at 212-217 most of the time. I found this thread and read it with some skepticism thinking people were over reacting, but it kept bugging me. Even though my analog gauge in the dash showed mid point I kept seeing these readings, where my Tundra was showing 190s all the time.
I swapped out the radiator since I could see mine was going brown and had some very minimal seepage, as evidenced by the dried coolant crust in various places. Still no change. So decided to do a timing belt job ahead of the mileage schedule, since I didn't know what year the job had been performed. My LX is around 243K and the belt was done at 179K, 25K before I bought it, according to the sticker in the engine bay. But I didn't know if that was just before I bought it 3 years ago or what. I thought perhaps the water pump vanes may be worn, if they didn't swap it out during the timing belt job. Anyway I got the water pump out and it looked healthy. During the job I've found the thermostat was the original and wondered if that could be problem(there is a 2 digit number stamped on the thermostat showing year). My thermostat was now almost 15 years old. Using the boiling water test I found my old thermostat only opened a few mm where the new one opened about 1/4 inch or more.
Long story short, use the KISS methodology (Keep It Simple Stupid). You can pull the thermostat out in 10mins and see if that's it or not.
I'm glad I'll have a new timing belt on it when I finished, but I wish I'd just tried this first!
I've been using Torque to watch temps on my LX and freaked out one day when it was showing 237 as engine temp. Got home and found the coolant was down about 1/2 gallon. Topped it off and thought very little about it, but it did make me watch the temp readout in Torque a lot more. I saw it running at 212-217 most of the time. I found this thread and read it with some skepticism thinking people were over reacting, but it kept bugging me. Even though my analog gauge in the dash showed mid point I kept seeing these readings, where my Tundra was showing 190s all the time.
I swapped out the radiator since I could see mine was going brown and had some very minimal seepage, as evidenced by the dried coolant crust in various places. Still no change. So decided to do a timing belt job ahead of the mileage schedule, since I didn't know what year the job had been performed. My LX is around 243K and the belt was done at 179K, 25K before I bought it, according to the sticker in the engine bay. But I didn't know if that was just before I bought it 3 years ago or what. I thought perhaps the water pump vanes may be worn, if they didn't swap it out during the timing belt job. Anyway I got the water pump out and it looked healthy. During the job I've found the thermostat was the original and wondered if that could be problem(there is a 2 digit number stamped on the thermostat showing year). My thermostat was now almost 15 years old. Using the boiling water test I found my old thermostat only opened a few mm where the new one opened about 1/4 inch or more.
Long story short, use the KISS methodology (Keep It Simple Stupid). You can pull the thermostat out in 10mins and see if that's it or not.
I'm glad I'll have a new timing belt on it when I finished, but I wish I'd just tried this first!
@SHIfTHEAD KISS is a great method!
Happy to hear you got it sorted.
Happy to hear you got it sorted.
Thermostats are cheap. Change it every time you have the cooling system drained.